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Welcome to the Zoo! (the very quiet zoo...)

I printed a test rib years ago in PLA, but found it was heavier than the equivalent in Balsa.

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It's likely a wiring issue - check the leads going into the controller - you should be able to get a reading on the thermsitor at the terminal block. Also check the bed thermistor.

I also recall that if the room is too cold (16C?) both thermistors will go "DEF".

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As far as I can recall, Arduino v1.6 is what you need to build the firmware and that should work just fine on any Windows machine.

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You might have better luck on the Duet3D forum, here: https://forum.duet3d.com/

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Wow. I don't think I've seen one of those since...2012.

Obligatory, "That belongs in a *museum*!"

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Try adding z-hop - it should prevent the nozzle from knocking over parts during travel moves. The original stock hot end (cold section is made from PEEK) really isn't designed for ABS. That being said, if you're trying to print ABS without an enclosure, you're just asking for problems. Even walking ...

The docs for all the older stuff can be found here: https://www.seemecnc.com/pages/downloads.
Scroll down about half-way to see the v2 & v1 documentation links.

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It's been *YEARS* since I needed to wire up a thermistor to the old hot end, but memory tells me that you use uninsulated crimp ferrules to attach the signal wires to the Thermistor leads, you don't solder them. The Thermistor wires should have tiny PTFE tubes covering them. I'm pretty sure the YT ...

You're welcome!

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It almost looks like wild temperature swings as the print height gets taller. Watch the temperature display on the front panel to see if it changes a lot. You might have an intermittent connection to the heater that is effected by the print height. You might also try printing a 100mm circle about ...

You might want to email [email protected] with your serial number - they should be able to tell you the date of manufacture of the machine.

The i2c error could indicate either a configuration issue or a wiring problem.

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If the heater block is loose, then that's likely the cause of your quality problem. It could be that the nozzle just needs to be tightened - it tightens against the face of the heat break inside the heater block.

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Did you update the Orion from the *original* SeeMeCNC hotend that was machined from PEEK? If so, did you also update the firmware to the current version that's on Github?

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The chamfers aren't the cause of the jamming. Molten plastic will flow right past those.

The most common cause of jams is related to printing too fast for the current hot end temperature. A failed cold-section fan can also be a factor.

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You'll get that if the heat bed is on during probing or if the nozzle is dirty.

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What parameters do you need?

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Look at the start & end gcode in Cura - if you're using a SeeMeCNC-built profile, it'll have the gcode in it for the retraction & priming of the filament.

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I would ask.

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Someone on the SeeMeCNC FB group worked out a mounting method. I *think* it involves increasing the center hole size on the SE300 PCB, but I'm not sure.

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I'd reach out to Steve and see what can suggest.

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it will do that if it's near the bed while it's on, but shouldn't cause any issues during printing. The Duet will ignore the sensor input during printing.

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PETG will absolutely bond to the PEI surface - you need to use a layer of glue stick when printing PETG on PEI.

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Apologies for the late response. Traveling. :) If you want to supply your own hot end, like an E3D v6, you'll want the Smart Effector. If you want a plug & play solution, you should get an SE300 from SeeMeCNC - it's got the same strain gauge circuit as the Smart Effector, but also includes the hot ...