Rostock max v1

[geneb]

If he installed the RAMBo driver, that's how the RAMPS will appear - it's not looking for a RAMBO device id, it's looking for the ATMega 2560, which both the RAMBo and RAMPS have.

We're kind of getting in the weeds here, but basically what happens is that Windows reads the rambo.inf file and picks out the USB VID and PID (vendor ID and product Id) and then associates that with an actual driver. In this case "usbser.sys" which is used to talk to serial devices over USB. If the VID & PID are shared between the RAMPS & RAMBo and he's got the rambo "driver" installed, the RAMPS board will appear as he shows it in device manager. If memory serves, both the RAMPS & RAMBo boards use the same FTDI usb serial bridge chip, and that is the origin of the VID & PID values that the operating system is looking for.

Make sense?

g.

[Eaglezsoar]

Makes sense to me. Thanks! ??

[mcdarren23]

yea makes perfect sense thank you. am i on a slippery slope with getting the machine working? lol

[Eaglezsoar]

yea makes perfect sense thank you. am i on a slippery slope with getting the machine working? lol

I believe that if you take your time and communicate with members of the forum as you have done, it is very possible to get your machine working again.
Sometimes we go off into a tangent with the subject but we always return to the subject matter. Be patient and keep communicating and it will happen.

[mhackney]

Ok, lots of posts from my last one! Firstly, no I was;t referring to Duet, etc simply the baud rate setting. So let's draw a line in the sand here and start with what we know:

1) you DO have a RAMPS board and it is now showing up properly in the device manager on COM14
2) now we need to figure out what baud rate to set in Repetier to get it to connect. Unfortunately, this is embedded in the firmware (most likely Marlin) on the RAMPS board so you basically have to guess! Here's what I recommend:

1. launch repetier host
2. open the Printers file option as I had you do yesterday
3. Make sure COM14 is selected.
4. Then, select 115200 for baud rate as Gene mentioned and try to connect (first save the and close the dialog then click the connect button). Make sure you clear the console window (there is a menu option to do this) before connecting so we can see what's going on.

If the printer connects it will print a message to the console with the firmware name and probably a build date or version #. If you see this, we are golden. If not, you need to repeat step 4 selecting a different baud rate. Start with the 9600 baud option and try each one in turn until you either connect or run out of options. Let us know what you find.

[mcdarren23]

entered at 115200
connected ok
log is in the pic.
also extruder does heat up to temp ok
bed doesnt

[Polygonhell]

Mines basically the malamine version of that with a few changes. There was a vote on materials for the original funding campaign, the Acrylic version was pulled not long after people started building them and damaging the parts in doing so.

I still run the original 15 tooth pulleys, I've replaced the Steve's with an EZ Struder, I recently replaced the original arms and metal joints. They also shipped without a peek fan or cooling fan, you will need one if you intend to print PLA. Does that printer even have an Onyx, or a round build plate? Again very early machines predated them.

AFAIK The SeeMe versions (there was a UK supplier at one point, who I vaguely remember shipped slightly different parts) never shipped with a RAMPS board. I did run mine from one for a few days shortly after I completed it after I blew the little 5A fuse on the RAMBO, and I had one lying around which I used while I waited for the fuses.

[mhackney]

@Polygonhell, yes I recall that the UK supplier cut parts there and they were not the melamine parts we have here. They looked more like particle board without a laminate. His photo on the 1st page of this thread shows an early Onyx, but see my comment below.

@mcdarren23: SUCCESS! And you are running Repetier so life will be easier. It is very possible that the firmware was not configured for a heated bed. I vaguely recall that the Onyx was not included.

Now can you move and home?

[mcdarren23]

yes i can move the arms now but dont think they are configured right. do i recall i have to invert the y ?
thanks

[mcdarren23]

we have life in the machine ! lol

[Eaglezsoar]

we have life in the machine ! lol

With our top ace MHackney helping you, there is no doubt that you have life in the machine.
We have many top 3D knowledgeable users, MHackney is the best we have.

[mcdarren23]

i would very much agree he has been a great help !! very kind of him and all of you to spare your time and help me out
thanks

[Nylocke]

Did you upload the firmware I sent you or is that the stuff that came on it when you got it?

[mhackney]

[mcdarren23]

It's firmwear I got from seemecnc web site. Same as the link I think

[mcdarren23]

Hi. Just checked back, I did not see the link. I will get right on with it and report back tomoz mornjng. Have a gd day everyone

[Nylocke]

I'm confused as to how .92.9 repetier is running on the machine. Did you upload the version I posted on page 2? I did not think that SeeMeCNC had updated their version to .92.9.

If you did upload official SeeMeCNC firmware thats not really a good thing, they have custom pin definitions in their firmware last time I checked. Also its made for the RAMBo which is a different controller than the RAMPS. A lot of the pin assignments are the same, but the RAMPS lacks 3 of the MOSFETs that the RAMBo has, the pins for the LCD are probably different, and its missing 1 thermistor pin. If you did upload official SMC firmware, this probably explains why the hotend works (pins are the same) but nothing else does (those other pins are different). Please try uploading the firmware I built for your machine I linked on the previous page. I set the baud rate to 250000 and the LCD should work.

Also for those with V1 machines, is the Y tower motor reversed on those like it is on the V2 machines, or do all of the steppers face the same direction? I inverted the Y stepper in the config assuming SMC didn't change this between the two, but Its quite a different design and I haven't seen a V1 for a few months.

[mcdarren23]

good morning all
so we are a little bit further in our adventure lol
i reinstalled driver etc and downloaded and uploaded the repit program supplied to me. the lcd now works
althou i can no longer manually move the arms. also feed back is that there is a
heater bed : temp sensor defect
error : printer set into dry run mode.

thanks everyone

[mcdarren23]

would this mean the thermoister has a fault and needs changing ? rep host is saying its 1000 deg also extruder wont heat up which i guess is because of the bed issue cheerz

[mcdarren23]

some info off rep host that might help also

[Xenocrates]

It can mean that the thermistor is faulty, that it's reading a temperature too low for it to like (Although I doubt it's really at ~-10C), that it's got the wrong sensor selected, or that the wiring/plug is non-contiguous. In short, it means somewhere in the assembly there is a fault which causes it to not pass the sanity checks of the firmware.

[mcdarren23]

ok i assume its a 100k thermistor i would need and solder it in place ?
thanks

[Nylocke]

I'm not sure what is up with the thermistor. All the supplied thermistors should be 100k at room temp, its pretty typical, so they should all read 20-30C even when switched around. I wouldn't recommend soldering a thermistor, generally they are sensitive to solder temperatures and small ferrules are best used.

Also to fix the axis movements you need to upload the EEPROM clear program from the Arduino IDE (it should be in file->examples->EEPROM->EEPROM_Clear or something like that) and then reupload the correct firmware. For some reason the old version of the firmware you had messed up EEPROM variables (the big red UNDEF in the EEPROM config)

[mcdarren23]

Ok thank you. I will have a look and give it a go. Thanks

[Polygonhell]

Disconnect the thermistor from the board and check the resistance, it's more likely to be a wiring issue than a broken thermistor.
At room temperature it should be about 100K Ohms.
The things it can be are as follows
Bad wiring (IME this is the most common, usually a short or partial short in the wiring).
A bad thermistor, I've broken the legs off them but I have never in 5+ years of printing with 5+ printers actually seen one fail.
Damaged controller board - If the resistance of the thermistor disconnected from the board is in the 100K ohm range, the board is likely damaged, and most likely the arduino pin that's used to measure the resistance is fried. If this is the case you really want to check your wiring with a fine tooth comb before you replace it, because usually it's caused by a thermistor pin shorted to a pin with some voltage on it.