(Group Buy) for 7"x7.5" Heated Bed

[michaellatif]

Don't worry about the calculations; I am E-Engineer.

Famous last words . I don't doubt your engineering skills, but real world experience says that what the board is designed to do will differ (sometimes greatly) from what the board actually does. I do like the board design, is that the top or the bottom?

I would like to see a working prototype, like Eaglezsoar.

[TKL]

Buying a single board is very expensive and I feel pretty sudden the design will work +/-10% of the power I mentioned. I expect to print on the track side and there will be no need for cobber on the other side. Printing on the back side will just stress the PCB more because you will need to make the board much hotter on the track side.

[Leeway]

I have the larger heated circuit board and I would not even consider printing directly on it. No matter how it is mounted, it can warp with heat. Glass is what most use. It will heat glass well, but takes a bit longer. A really short time in the scheme of long prints though.
Mine heats up 1/4" Pyrex glass with 14 VDC @ 15 amps to 110 C in less than 5 minutes. That is a 9" x 9" piece of glass with an 8" x 8" PCB.

[TKL]

I have the larger heated circuit board and I would not even consider printing directly on it. No matter how it is mounted, it can warp with heat. Glass is what most use. It will heat glass well, but takes a bit longer. A really short time in the scheme of long prints though.
Mine heats up 1/4" Pyrex glass with 14 VDC @ 15 amps to 110 C in less than 5 minutes. That is a 9" x 9" piece of glass with an 8" x 8" PCB.

Have you tried gluing it to a stiff glass or other metal on the backside so you still print on the tracks?

[Eaglezsoar]

Buying a single board is very expensive and I feel pretty sudden the design will work +/-10% of the power I mentioned. I expect to print on the track side and there will be no need for cobber on the other side. Printing on the back side will just stress the PCB more because you will need to make the board much hotter on the track side.

Private messaging for you does not work.
Please send me an email at [email protected]
I need your location and discuss with you how to make this happen
with these boards.

[Leeway]

I have the larger heated circuit board and I would not even consider printing directly on it. No matter how it is mounted, it can warp with heat. Glass is what most use. It will heat glass well, but takes a bit longer. A really short time in the scheme of long prints though.
Mine heats up 1/4" Pyrex glass with 14 VDC @ 15 amps to 110 C in less than 5 minutes. That is a 9" x 9" piece of glass with an 8" x 8" PCB.

Have you tried gluing it to a stiff glass or other metal on the backside so you still print on the tracks?

No. I wouldn't do that. It is much nicer to be able to remove the print bed quickly for cleaning and ease of removing some parts. Also with the glass, cool down times can be long, so if you wanted to immediately print something else, swap out the glass panes carefully, let the second one heat while the first one cools slowly and start printing again before the first one is ready to remove the part.
Just a much more elegant and convenient setup. More like a tooling plate in a mill.

I find I don't even need a heated bed on PLA parts. Blue tape works great even on big parts. ABS must have a heated bed and Kapton. So far that is all I have gotten to work with any consistency at all on ABS.

[Eaglezsoar]

I have the larger heated circuit board and I would not even consider printing directly on it. No matter how it is mounted, it can warp with heat. Glass is what most use. It will heat glass well, but takes a bit longer. A really short time in the scheme of long prints though.
Mine heats up 1/4" Pyrex glass with 14 VDC @ 15 amps to 110 C in less than 5 minutes. That is a 9" x 9" piece of glass with an 8" x 8" PCB.

Have you tried gluing it to a stiff glass or other metal on the backside so you still print on the tracks?

I would never print directly to the PCB, a piece of aluminum or glass will conduct the heat.
Pyrex is the correct glass use but can be cost prohibitive. McMaster Carr is one source. An 8"x8" piece is $24.62 + shipping Part # 8476K185
Regular glass could work but there is a risk of shattering from the temperature extremes.

[Polygonhell]

You wouldn't want to glue anything onto the PCB, whatever you glue onto it will expand at a different rate than the PCB itself and something will either bend or break.
People usually use either tape or clips which gives the surfaces enough scope to move relative to each other.

[rotaone]

Why can we not use double sided copper board and etch tracks on both sides to achieve the same resistance and heating ability as the large boards?
We then run both sides in series at 12volts, just a thought.

[Eaglezsoar]

Here it is (cobber layer only). The pads looks a bit wrong due to a missing apt file and the led is not added yet. The board is for 12 and 24V actually. The heating tracks are split into two 12V / 60W sections. You put them in parallel for 12V and series for 24V. Don't worry about the calculations; I am E-Engineer.

You responded to my email account and I have sent you several emails, have you received them?
If you did not receive them please leave me a PM and give me an email address where you can be
reached. Thanks.

[johnoly99]

John here. Whatever qty. you have left to make your minimum order, we'll take them.

[michaellatif]

Woot! Maybe we can talk the SeeMeCNC folks into a higher number to get the cost down even further??

[bvandiepenbos]

Hey Guys,
If it is not to late, count me in for 1 heater board.

How will the shipping to each of us work?
cost?

~*Brian V
Goshen, IN

H-1 "Little Squirt"

[johnoly99]

Yeah. Weve been playing with nichrome to make an easy diy bed, but at the prices we are seeing, it makes sense to go this route. I emailed and told him were in for 10 or so to fill the order, and once we all get them and see if were happy, we will work something out to stock a pcb board. Just wanna make sure were happy with these before dropping a big order.

[michaellatif]

Yeah. Weve been playing with nichrome to make an easy diy bed, but at the prices we are seeing, it makes sense to go this route. I emailed and told him were in for 10 or so to fill the order, and once we all get them and see if were happy, we will work something out to stock a pcb board. Just wanna make sure were happy with these before dropping a big order.

Yeah, I am finding the nichrome wire bed to work, but is not optimal, specially for larger build quantities, its too complex for assembly and much more cost compared to the PCB solution.

If we can hit 100 boards that will drop the cost by 40%, but that is not likely to happen until we have a proven working prototype.
Eaglezsoar and TKL, any updates?

[michaellatif]

Yeah. Weve been playing with nichrome to make an easy diy bed, but at the prices we are seeing, it makes sense to go this route. I emailed and told him were in for 10 or so to fill the order, and once we all get them and see if were happy, we will work something out to stock a pcb board. Just wanna make sure were happy with these before dropping a big order.

Yeah, I am finding the nichrome wire bed to work, but is not optimal, specially for larger build quantities, its too complex assembly and higher cost compared to the PCB solution.

If we can hit 100 boards that will drop the cost by 40%, but that is not likely to happen until we have a proven working prototype.
Eaglezsoar and TKL, any updates?

[Eaglezsoar]

Yeah. Weve been playing with nichrome to make an easy diy bed, but at the prices we are seeing, it makes sense to go this route. I emailed and told him were in for 10 or so to fill the order, and once we all get them and see if were happy, we will work something out to stock a pcb board. Just wanna make sure were happy with these before dropping a big order.

Yeah, I am finding the nichrome wire bed to work, but is not optimal, specially for larger build quantities, its too complex assembly and higher cost compared to the PCB solution.

If we can hit 100 boards that will drop the cost by 40%, but that is not likely to happen until we have a proven working prototype.
Eaglezsoar and TKL, any updates?

TKL has not been on the Forum since April 24. He is from Denmark and I think that my questions to him made him angry. I was willing to pay for all the boards left after the orders were placed but I wanted a prototype to
be created so that we know that they will work effectively. I am not sure but I think this is a dead issue now unless someone else wants to take over.

[mhackney]

I researched this quite a bit before going down the nichrome wire path. The challenge is finding the proper PCB with a thicker layer of copper than standard boards. I searched until my fingers were blue and could not find a source that had less than a $500 minimum. I am all set up to CNC mill boards and have an untested design. If anyone can find a source for raw PCB let me know.

cheers,
Michael

[michaellatif]

I researched this quite a bit before going down the nichrome wire path. The challenge is finding the proper PCB with a thicker layer of copper than standard boards. I searched until my fingers were blue and could not find a source that had less than a $500 minimum. I am all set up to CNC mill boards and have an untested design. If anyone can find a source for raw PCB let me know.

cheers,
Michael

Hey Michael,

MPJA usually has decent prices (last I checked) on copper clad boards. Is there a specific thickness of copper or weight you are looking for?

http://www.mpja.com/8in-X-10in-Copper-C ... /14872+DT/

OR

http://www.mpja.com/12in-X-12in-Copper- ... /15537+BD/

Look like something that might work for this purpose?

Thanks,

Mike

[TKL]

Hi all,

I am back from moving home. Unfortunately my ISP took more time than expected to setup internet at my new address

But it looks like we can order at least 25 boards now. I will get back to you when I have talked to the board factory.

[michaellatif]

Great and thanks for handling the logistics for this TKL!

[Extrude3D]

OP, if you would like to manage this idea better, just use http://www.chipin.com/ to rally funds.

We can establish a new topic and make a 'buyers' list showing who bought what and how many slots are/were available.

[michaellatif]

OP, if you would like to manage this idea better, just use http://www.chipin.com/ to rally funds.

We can establish a new topic and make a 'buyers' list showing who bought what and how many slots are/were available.

Cool, didn't know that existed.

TKL, let me know when you guys get ready to prototype and collect money.

[Extrude3D]

OP, if you would like to manage this idea better, just use http://www.chipin.com/ to rally funds.

We can establish a new topic and make a 'buyers' list showing who bought what and how many slots are/were available.

Cool, didn't know that existed.

TKL, let me know when you guys get ready to prototype and collect money.

You do need a verified paypal in good standing if you are going to collect many donations individually, use chipin please so you dont get limited

I will also purchase a Heated Bed to work with. My Printrboard will love it too

[TKL]

My PayPal account is limited to $3.300,00 USD but can be unlimited. I had it for 10+ years so there will hardly be any problems with limits.