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I used these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BG9IDB2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and installed it on the effector with a little double sided tape. It works great and I don't really have to worry about the light level. It does flicker sometimes as the hot end is heating up. What ...

Nice write-up. It all looks so simple when you see this, but I am always very hesitant to make such large mods myself. For me a safer route is through the well known SeeMe or TrickLaser upgrades. But this really looks RTM! ;-) I was originally just going to switch to carbon arms, then one thing led ...

You'd then need to put the endstop screw above the bearing which cuts into your print height. And the single bearing would want to be positioned between the two opposing bearings. You could make it work but for that much effort, I'd almost rather just switch to linear rails.

Just curious after seeing this and some other custom carriers(Skates) Since the weight is pulling inward, wouldn't it make more sense to have the bearings on the rear and front of the towers vs. the sides? The issue with having a bearing on the inside is that when you print at the base of the tower ...

We've been a long time follower of SeeMeCNC, but haven't made a forum account until now. We have the Rostock Max V1 and V2 in the shop, both heavily modded at this point. Probably ran through 40-50 spools between the two printers by now. We've only recently had to time to document some of our mods ...

I've recently did a major overhaul on the Rostock v2 we had in the shop. The arms, carriage, effector, and extruder all got a pretty big upgrade. IMG_6495.JPG IMG_6497.JPG IMG_6137.JPG IMG_6424.JPG IMG_6449.JPG Long story short, I created a bunch of parts to make the entire moving end of the printer ...

We did the top mount method using an e3D v6 hotend. Works wonders! The wiring needs to be a little longer to bend around the extruder if you have an Airstruder setup.