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I had a similar problem and noticed that the positive and negative going to the new hotend was switched. Try checking the pinout of the connector with this sheet https://d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/i ... qZBLO.huge

The 8 pin connector was coming loose, however that did not fix the problem

Moving this post from Rostock Max v2 section to here. Looking for advice: Recently did the HE280 hot end upgrade on my Rostock Max v2 and now the printer keeps resetting as soon as it starts to print. Sometimes it will print the first layer, other times it will reset as soon as the hot end reaches ...

Looking for advice: Recently did the HE280 hot end upgrade on my Rostock Max v2 and now the printer keeps resetting as soon as it starts to print. Sometimes it will print the first layer, other times it will reset as soon as the hot end reaches the bed. The bed and hot end are heating up fine. This ...

My rambo board blew a driver a while ago so I replaced it with a ramps board due to the price and ability to swap driver chips if needed. Now I have upgraded to a HE280 hotend with the accelerometer and have gotten stuck during the firmware update. The ramps has an i2c and PS_On pin so I was able to ...

Fixed it for now. I swapped the pins for e1 and z in pins.h in the firmware. Also had to change the digi pot. This will work as long as not using dual extruders. I will be ordering a new driver chip to replace the blow one on my rambo.

So I am currently working on a 24v mod for the heated bed. In the process I am also relocating all electronics to an external enclosure. During my first test I accidentally had the z stepper motor wires lying across the +24v line going to the heated bed. The Z carriage started moving down during the ...

You could probably do it by combining g codes. Change the skirt offset so its out enough generate the code. Then change to brim and isnert just the skirt code into your brim code and there you go.

Unless you need the ends rounded I would make the ends square and print it standing up. That would probably give you the best print without supports.

Got most if the bottom printed. The clips work good, I tightned them down too hard and broke the glass plate. A rubber bottom would be great to hold the bed in place. Maybe a dual print ninjaflex/abs clip would work. I just need to finish the design of the front piece for the plexiglass door. Here ...

There will be 4 clips that screw down to hold the bed down.I dont remove my bed very often. I suppose you could just get a cheap electric screwdriver and it would take all of 30 sec to remove the clips enough to get the bed out.

As long as it provides a good enough model to create the cast around then it should work.

I have been working a bit on designing a new enclosure for my rostock max v2. My idea is to use wrap the machine with a an insulator material. In order to do this the melamine sheet that the heated bed sets on needs to extend out farther to allow clearance for the cheapskates. My idea was to create ...

You would have to use a scanner to get the best fit. Im sure you could use a kinect and even build a device that rotates it around your arm/leg to get good results. The problem with printing before a break is you lose the ability to add reinforcement to the break area specifically. Also if you gain ...

I did the same thing. I just drilled a new hole for the filament to pass through. I am printing a guide for the filament right now so it goes through better.

Try doing some extruder calibration. http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1163 This is a great post on how to calibrate your extruder. It also helps to make sure the filament settings are correct a difference in settings of 1.75 vs 1.78mm can help your prints look better. The de-lamination ...