With a goal of 100c, it's taken about 10min to go from 80c to 85c. I live in Atlanta and it's so currently the ambient temp is not an issue at all. It get's up to 60 in about the same time as without one, but once it has to climb high for like ABS temps, it's significantly slower. I feel like i'm taking crazy pills
Trick Laser Aluminum spreader having the opposite effect?
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shentheory
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Trick Laser Aluminum spreader having the opposite effect?
So it just came in the mail yesterday - pulled off the glass and cleaned it, put the heat spreader on the HBP and clamped the it down with the glass on top. To my utter surprise it's actually taking MORE time to heat up.....
With a goal of 100c, it's taken about 10min to go from 80c to 85c. I live in Atlanta and it's so currently the ambient temp is not an issue at all. It get's up to 60 in about the same time as without one, but once it has to climb high for like ABS temps, it's significantly slower. I feel like i'm taking crazy pills
am i missing something? seems like taking it off would almost be better. any help/tips/advice would be appreciated.
With a goal of 100c, it's taken about 10min to go from 80c to 85c. I live in Atlanta and it's so currently the ambient temp is not an issue at all. It get's up to 60 in about the same time as without one, but once it has to climb high for like ABS temps, it's significantly slower. I feel like i'm taking crazy pills
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IMBoring25
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Re: Trick Laser Aluminum spreader having the opposite effect
Yes, a heat spreader will slow heat-up. It's more mass that has to be heated to temperature. The point of the heat spreader is to make the temperature distribution across the bed more even.
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Xenocrates
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Re: Trick Laser Aluminum spreader having the opposite effect
You've added additional thermal mass without adding more power. So it takes longer to heat. The point of a heat spreader is the even out your surface temperature, which allows you to get consistent adhesion at potentially a lower temperature. If you want faster heating, go ahead and add a towel to the top while you warm the printer, or use an enclosure/heatgun/heatlamp/higher voltage supply
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Rostock Max V2, Duet .8.5, PT100 enabled E3D V6 and volcano, Raymond style enclosure
Automation Technology 60W laser cutter/engraver
1m X-carve router
Sic Transit Gloria Mundi
01-10011-11111100001
Re: Trick Laser Aluminum spreader having the opposite effect
Mine takes a bit longer to heat up also. I much prefer that to the un-even heat distribution that I had before. I have a PEI coating on my aluminum. I am printing PETG at 230 and the heat bed is set to 80 now. I have not had a single bed adhesion failure since I installed the disk. Before that I had a couple of cold spots that would always let go.
- bvandiepenbos
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Re: Trick Laser Aluminum spreader having the opposite effect
yes, it will heat up slower, but like others already mentioned, the entire print surface will be more even which helps print adhesion.shentheory wrote:So it just came in the mail yesterday - pulled off the glass and cleaned it, put the heat spreader on the HBP and clamped the it down with the glass on top. To my utter surprise it's actually taking MORE time to heat up.....
With a goal of 100c, it's taken about 10min to go from 80c to 85c. I live in Atlanta and it's so currently the ambient temp is not an issue at all. It get's up to 60 in about the same time as without one, but once it has to climb high for like ABS temps, it's significantly slower. I feel like i'm taking crazy pillsam i missing something? seems like taking it off would almost be better. any help/tips/advice would be appreciated.
It would be a good idea to do a PID auto tune for the heated bed now that you have heat spreader, that might help heat up a bit. At the very least PID tune will keep temp more stable.
My experience has been the heat spreader makes my machines heat up a bit quicker, although one machine is running at 13.8 volts and the other is 24 volt, that may be why?
The heat spreader has a plastic film on one side, make sure that side is down against hpb.
If your machine has a "meanwell" type psu instead of a ATX psu I would turn up the trim pot to up the voltage from 12 volts, you can probably get around 13.4 volts. Even the small increase in voltage will help reduce heat up time.
Measure the voltage before and after you adjust it, just for reference.
Note: If you do increase voltage you should PID tune the hot end also.
A towel does help, or a large glass lid from a cooking pot works good.
~*Brian V.
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RostockMAX v2 (Stock)
MAX METAL "ShortyMAX"
MAX METAL Rostock MAX Printer Frame
NEMESIS Air Delta v1 & v2 -Aluminum delta printers
Rostock MAX "KITT" - Tri-Force Frame
GRABER i3 "Slim"
- Eaglezsoar
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Re: Trick Laser Aluminum spreader having the opposite effect
If you use the whole pot you can cook some crabs while waiting!bvandiepenbos wrote:yes, it will heat up slower, but like others already mentioned, the entire print surface will be more even which helps print adhesion.shentheory wrote:So it just came in the mail yesterday - pulled off the glass and cleaned it, put the heat spreader on the HBP and clamped the it down with the glass on top. To my utter surprise it's actually taking MORE time to heat up.....
With a goal of 100c, it's taken about 10min to go from 80c to 85c. I live in Atlanta and it's so currently the ambient temp is not an issue at all. It get's up to 60 in about the same time as without one, but once it has to climb high for like ABS temps, it's significantly slower. I feel like i'm taking crazy pillsam i missing something? seems like taking it off would almost be better. any help/tips/advice would be appreciated.
It would be a good idea to do a PID auto tune for the heated bed now that you have heat spreader, that might help heat up a bit. At the very least PID tune will keep temp more stable.
My experience has been the heat spreader makes my machines heat up a bit quicker, although one machine is running at 13.8 volts and the other is 24 volt, that may be why?
The heat spreader has a plastic film on one side, make sure that side is down against hpb.
If your machine has a "meanwell" type psu instead of a ATX psu I would turn up the trim pot to up the voltage from 12 volts, you can probably get around 13.4 volts. Even the small increase in voltage will help reduce heat up time.
Measure the voltage before and after you adjust it, just for reference.
Note: If you do increase voltage you should PID tune the hot end also.
A towel does help, or a large glass lid from a cooking pot works good.
- barry99705
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Re: Trick Laser Aluminum spreader having the opposite effect
Aww, man. I have a hard enough time boiling water on my stovetop!Eaglezsoar wrote:If you use the whole pot you can cook some crabs while waiting!bvandiepenbos wrote:yes, it will heat up slower, but like others already mentioned, the entire print surface will be more even which helps print adhesion.shentheory wrote:So it just came in the mail yesterday - pulled off the glass and cleaned it, put the heat spreader on the HBP and clamped the it down with the glass on top. To my utter surprise it's actually taking MORE time to heat up.....
With a goal of 100c, it's taken about 10min to go from 80c to 85c. I live in Atlanta and it's so currently the ambient temp is not an issue at all. It get's up to 60 in about the same time as without one, but once it has to climb high for like ABS temps, it's significantly slower. I feel like i'm taking crazy pillsam i missing something? seems like taking it off would almost be better. any help/tips/advice would be appreciated.
It would be a good idea to do a PID auto tune for the heated bed now that you have heat spreader, that might help heat up a bit. At the very least PID tune will keep temp more stable.
My experience has been the heat spreader makes my machines heat up a bit quicker, although one machine is running at 13.8 volts and the other is 24 volt, that may be why?
The heat spreader has a plastic film on one side, make sure that side is down against hpb.
If your machine has a "meanwell" type psu instead of a ATX psu I would turn up the trim pot to up the voltage from 12 volts, you can probably get around 13.4 volts. Even the small increase in voltage will help reduce heat up time.
Measure the voltage before and after you adjust it, just for reference.
Note: If you do increase voltage you should PID tune the hot end also.
A towel does help, or a large glass lid from a cooking pot works good.
Never do anything you don't want to have to explain to the paramedics.