Rostock 1 LCD problem
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- Prints-a-lot
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Rostock 1 LCD problem
Hey guys,
After we upgrade the firmware to 0.91 version, the LCD suddenly refuse to show numbers like showed in graph,
What's wrong with it?
After we upgrade the firmware to 0.91 version, the LCD suddenly refuse to show numbers like showed in graph,
What's wrong with it?
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- Prints-a-lot
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2015 2:09 pm
Re: Rostock 1 LCD problem
I forgot to mention that G-code does not work since at the same time and we did not change any wiring. They both worked fine before.
Re: Rostock 1 LCD problem
Are you sure it was uploaded? That's what the LCD looks like before you initially flash the firmware.
I'd try it again and make sure you clear the EEPROM. The v2 manual on page 214 should explain it. (page 209 is what your LCD looks like)
I'd try it again and make sure you clear the EEPROM. The v2 manual on page 214 should explain it. (page 209 is what your LCD looks like)
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- Prints-a-lot
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Re: Rostock 1 LCD problem
Yes, Actually the printer we are building is rostock V1, and before we upgrade our firmware from 0.7 to 0.91 it will show the temperature and all stuff. But after the first time uploading the changes as instruction told us, it became like this and the g-code stopped working
Re: Rostock 1 LCD problem
Are you running 0.91 or 0.92 firmware? You posted elsewhere that you had uploaded 0.92
- Tincho85
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Re: Rostock 1 LCD problem
I've answered your PM fuhao1995323.
Just one suggestion, and don't take it the wrong way, please use one thread, don't post the same/similar issue again.
It's very hard to keep track on what you are doing or didn't do.
and always provide all the info you can.
1. Why do you say Rostock 1? it's an old Rostock? you bought an used one? it was pre-asembled? You can have mechanical issues that you are no aware of.
2. Did you built it? If you just follow the manual it pretty straight foward.
3. Don't use 0.92 from Repetiers page, use the one from seemecnc. Always the last stable (0.91 I believe)
4. BED: Check all the wiring with a multimeter, maybe you have a short.
5. Did you fix the slicing problem?
6. Is the effector moving ok now?
7. Why are you changing Printer_Radius? that's how it was done in the old manual. Now we use horizontal radius from the eeprom and it's sooo much easier.
Just one suggestion, and don't take it the wrong way, please use one thread, don't post the same/similar issue again.
It's very hard to keep track on what you are doing or didn't do.
and always provide all the info you can.
1. Why do you say Rostock 1? it's an old Rostock? you bought an used one? it was pre-asembled? You can have mechanical issues that you are no aware of.
2. Did you built it? If you just follow the manual it pretty straight foward.
3. Don't use 0.92 from Repetiers page, use the one from seemecnc. Always the last stable (0.91 I believe)
4. BED: Check all the wiring with a multimeter, maybe you have a short.
5. Did you fix the slicing problem?
6. Is the effector moving ok now?
7. Why are you changing Printer_Radius? that's how it was done in the old manual. Now we use horizontal radius from the eeprom and it's sooo much easier.
Martín S.
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- Prints-a-lot
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Re: Rostock 1 LCD problem
Hello Sir,
Allow me to tell you what we are right now.
1. After we completed the assembling the first time, which is two weeks ago, everything is fine (the heat rod, bed and everything except the arduino codeand we skip the code calibration). Then, we failed a lot of times
for the test print--the cube because it cannot go flatly while printing and no matter how we adjust it mechanically, it cannot fix the problem.
2. Then we took the advice to upgrade the host. It helped to fix the slicer directory problem but not main problem for printing.
3. After that we took another advice, which is to upgrade the firmware. However, we could not find printer_radius in the code in 0.92 so we changed to 0.91, that's when the LCD and G-code do not work. My partner fixed it and we tried to redo all the calibration part.
4. Now when we are at PID, we found out that the bed cannot be heat up and there is always a "resend 1".
So ,I believe our wiring is ok and it is our software that makes it wrong.
Still, how can we make it move flatly when printing one single layer?
Allow me to tell you what we are right now.
1. After we completed the assembling the first time, which is two weeks ago, everything is fine (the heat rod, bed and everything except the arduino codeand we skip the code calibration). Then, we failed a lot of times
for the test print--the cube because it cannot go flatly while printing and no matter how we adjust it mechanically, it cannot fix the problem.
2. Then we took the advice to upgrade the host. It helped to fix the slicer directory problem but not main problem for printing.
3. After that we took another advice, which is to upgrade the firmware. However, we could not find printer_radius in the code in 0.92 so we changed to 0.91, that's when the LCD and G-code do not work. My partner fixed it and we tried to redo all the calibration part.
4. Now when we are at PID, we found out that the bed cannot be heat up and there is always a "resend 1".
So ,I believe our wiring is ok and it is our software that makes it wrong.
Still, how can we make it move flatly when printing one single layer?
- Tincho85
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Re: Rostock 1 LCD problem
Don't touch the Printer_Radius, if you change that value you need to disable EEPROM_MODE from the firmware, if not, it will be overwritten. That's why you can't properly level the bed.
But like said before, forget about this. Don't mess with the printer radius, change the horizontal radius from the EEPROM like Genes guide says.
Here: Assembly Guide for Repetier+Slic3r
https://mega.co.nz/#!7RxVXTiS!3OIVH4sTL ... _h_B9FqfK8
Did you clear the firmware before moving from 0.92 to 0.91? This is like a fresh start.
Resend 1: Don't know really. Try using a diferent USB cable or port. Some time ago... I did have connections issues when using a 5 meter cheap cable. Fixed it with a premium one and problem solved.
But like said before, forget about this. Don't mess with the printer radius, change the horizontal radius from the EEPROM like Genes guide says.
Here: Assembly Guide for Repetier+Slic3r
https://mega.co.nz/#!7RxVXTiS!3OIVH4sTL ... _h_B9FqfK8
Did you clear the firmware before moving from 0.92 to 0.91? This is like a fresh start.
Resend 1: Don't know really. Try using a diferent USB cable or port. Some time ago... I did have connections issues when using a 5 meter cheap cable. Fixed it with a premium one and problem solved.
Martín S.
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- Prints-a-lot
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Re: Rostock 1 LCD problem
Hi, we have already installed 0.91 as you taught us. And after we change the cable, everything wired in the information board disappeared.
However, the heat bed still refuses to heat up but the nozzle works fine. And we have checked all the wires and it is fine.
One thing I would like you to know is the voltage at the output of motherboard is only 1.2V, would that be some side error that cause output voltage error?
Can you help us with that? Thank you!
However, the heat bed still refuses to heat up but the nozzle works fine. And we have checked all the wires and it is fine.
One thing I would like you to know is the voltage at the output of motherboard is only 1.2V, would that be some side error that cause output voltage error?
Can you help us with that? Thank you!
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Re: Rostock 1 LCD problem
until you get your display back, your firmware is not loaded, reload using arduino. you cannot do anything until that is correct.
Tom C
Tom C
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325 MM carbon arms trick trucks effector mount LED ring heat spreader
Corvair750
V6 Hotend
Robo 3D
Flashforge creator
http://WWW.TeslagenX.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - Bedini experimenter kits, books, DVD's
- Tincho85
- Printmaster!
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- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2013 12:27 pm
- Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina
Re: Rostock 1 LCD problem
Yup, agree with Tom.
About the bed... checked the wiring with a multimiter? if not:
Turn the Heated Bed on (to 60ºc for example) and with a multimiter check the Heated Bed mosfet output of the board.
It should give +/- 12vDC. With hotend on could be less though.
Then check the voltage of the Onyx.
like this: Don't mind the value. It should be around the 12vDC
About the bed... checked the wiring with a multimiter? if not:
Turn the Heated Bed on (to 60ºc for example) and with a multimiter check the Heated Bed mosfet output of the board.
It should give +/- 12vDC. With hotend on could be less though.
Then check the voltage of the Onyx.
like this: Don't mind the value. It should be around the 12vDC
Martín S.