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After finally getting my Rostock Max up and running through WiFi on my Raspberry Pi/Repetier-Server setup, I figured I would make a case to hold my raspberry pi that I could mount to my printer. I wanted a truly self contained printing solution .

Anyway, I was looking on Thingiverse at Raspberry Pi cases and found a few that I liked, but none had all the features I wanted (mounting tabs, a design that didn't look stupid, and a cutout for the Pi camera ribbon cable). So I took it upon myself to mix, match, and modify...with a little delta/rotary flare.

I started with this top case, then modified the cutout design and added a slot for the camera ribbon cable...http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30646

And used this bottom case with mounting feet as is...http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:473671

I need to reprint the bottom because I got some warp on the mounting tabs, but the top turned out nice.

[img]https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5608/15648353609_407298922a_b.jpg[/img]

Next up is to design the mounting bracket and camera mount so that I can attach it to the printer.

EDIT: Figured I would move the latest details to the first post...

Final design of Raspberry Pi 2 (or B+) case... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:922740

[img]http://i.imgur.com/QDrq4kn.jpg[/img]

Final design of Raspberry Pi Model B case... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:608169

[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7571/158 ... f962_b.jpg[/img]

really nice looking prints, you really have that thing dialed in

Here's a suggestion - design the case bottom to replace one of the melamine side cover plates. You could add vent holes to it to help interior cooling... You'd basically design a part the same size as the melamine cover and then merge the case bottom model into it...

g.

geneb wrote:Here's a suggestion - design the case bottom to replace one of the melamine side cover plates. You could add vent holes to it to help interior cooling... You'd basically design a part the same size as the melamine cover and then merge the case bottom model into it...

g.

That's an awesome idea. For now, I'm going with a removable mounting solution, but since I have been thinking about picking up a second "floating" raspberry pi, I may go ahead and design just what you said as another future update.

I'm pretty sure I've got two of them. Maybe three. I can't be sure.

g.

geneb wrote:I'm pretty sure I've got two of them. Maybe three. I can't be sure.

g.

I've had my sole (and lonely I would suspect) Model B for nearly 2 years. Played with it a little but couldn't find a good use for it so it mostly sat in a desk drawer. That is until I decided I wanted to up my 3D printing game...now I'm planning a few more machines which may mean a few more raspberry pi's.

0110-m-p wrote:I started with this top case, then modified the cutout design and added a slot for the camera ribbon cable...http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30646

Mind sharing the file?

Jimustanguitar wrote:

0110-m-p wrote:I started with this top case, then modified the cutout design and added a slot for the camera ribbon cable...http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30646

Mind sharing the file?

Sure, I'll post links to my entire Thingiverse remix when I'm finished with the designs this weekend.

Nice looking design! I really love the Reuleaux triangle cut out. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reuleaux_triangle
I just loaded up my pi with Astroprint yesterday. (had trouble getting octoprint to work, so am trying Astroprint... so far it is super easy )
https://www.astroprint.com/
https://astroprint.zendesk.com/hc/en-us ... nd-pcDuino

My pi came with a decent case and I printed a camera holder for it http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:404654
screwed it to the side of the case sticking up so I can pan/tilt to get the right view.
Your design looks better.

As you can tell I am rather found of the Reuleaux triangle...
http://www.tricklaser.com/Assembled-Ros ... ASMBLD.htm
http://www.tricklaser.com/Rostock-MAX-T ... TF-001.htm

Thanks Brian. I'm a rotary engine guy (if you couldn't tell by my avatar), which automatically means I'm a reuleaux triangle guy too.

My original build plan was actually to use your frame for a custom ground up build, but ended up going the stock with mods route instead since it was my first printer.

Another thing you might want to look into - the red wires on the ATX supplies are 5v. You could use that to power the Raspberry Pi when the MAX is turned on. You'd need to make a cable for it though.

g.

geneb wrote:Another thing you might want to look into - the red wires on the ATX supplies are 5v. You could use that to power the Raspberry Pi when the MAX is turned on. You'd need to make a cable for it though.

g.

Great idea...maybe make a permanently mounted powered USB port to plug the standard cable into.

Yep. You might also look into attaching a thin profile USB hub on the inside surface of the integrated side cover. If you wanted to get REALLY creative with it, you could print a cover that's got Keystone jack holes in it and get USB Keystone jacks from Amazon.

g.

bvandiepenbos wrote:Nice looking design! I really love the Reuleaux triangle cut out. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reuleaux_triangle
I just loaded up my pi with Astroprint yesterday. (had trouble getting octoprint to work, so am trying Astroprint... so far it is super easy )
https://www.astroprint.com/
https://astroprint.zendesk.com/hc/en-us ... nd-pcDuino

That looks pretty interesting..

Having a look at that now

So after playing with the case a bit I realized that I dislike enough things about it that I started designing my own from the ground up. It is going to take several design elements from the ones that I started modifying with some extra features. In the mean time, I did get my Pi camera housing/mount printed....

Started with this design and printed it out of blue trimmer line nylon.

[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7472/15677348657_05b4c5890d_b.jpg[/img]

After cleaning up the strings and removing the brim, I decided to dye it black with RIT dye since the blue would look super tacky on my machine.

[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7522/15675592298_e00976034a_b.jpg[/img]

The process is pretty simple for nylon since it can take the temperatures of boiling water (100C) without deforming (unlike ABS). Just bring a pot of water to a boil, add some salt (not sure why but it seemed to help in my days of dyeing PBT keyboard key caps), and then the dye. Next put the parts in a metal strainer and set it in the pot so that the parts are completely submerged but aren't touching the bottom (this will melt them) and let it go for 10-15 minutes. Pull the parts out, rinse with cold water, dry, and you're good to go.

[img]https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8658/15243460783_55257fd928_b.jpg[/img]

[img]https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8570/15862479952_92a2ac66d9_b.jpg[/img]

[img]https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8637/15675774610_7a3fe30a6c_b.jpg[/img]

Complete assembly with camera installed. Plan on mounting this just outside the polycarbonate enclosure that I am currently building as well.

[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7580/15240826664_7db8045a91_b.jpg[/img]

[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7501/15675770780_a55a2c01b1_b.jpg[/img]

That's cool! I did not know you could dye the parts after they have been printed.
Thanks for the great info and pictures.

Eaglezsoar wrote:That's cool! I did not know you could dye the parts after they have been printed.
Thanks for the great info and pictures.

The only thing I see so far is that it softened the nylon significantly and the parts are way more flexible than they were pre-dye. Not sure if this is because of the moisture content now in the nylon, but I'm hoping that it will stiffen up again if I let it sit a few days. If not, I may bake them in the over at 200F for a few hours to dry them out.

Also, I highly recommend no body try this with ABS unless you have a thermometer in the water the whole time and don't let it exceed 180-190F. Also, thin ABS parts warp FAST and permanently.

The "softening" is a result of boiling the nylon and the nylon having absorbed water. In my day job, my company makes a nylon (among other material like TPU) tie pad and shoulder for use with concrete railroad ties (we make those also). The nylon parts must be "conditioned" or treated in very hot water for 24 hours to increase their shock resistance after injection molding. The material becomes much more flexible but the tensile strength is lowered by 15% to 20%.

The strength may be restored by baking the parts but the ductility suffers as the tensile strength comes back up. This is not as bad as it seems, in humid areas like the south or the pacific northwest the pads will naturally absorb moisture and reach a similar saturation point in 12 to 18 months.

As we know nylon is a hydroscopic material

Been printing with the Raspberry Pi exclusively for a few weeks now so I thought I should go ahead and finish up this project. Not quite done with the design yet, but close now.

- Incorporated built in 75mm VESA mount holes
- Eliminated the SD card tray since I am using a flush-mount (super short) microSD adapter that doesn't stick out. (http://www.adafruit.com/products/966)
- Made it so that the top and bottom shells screw together rather than friction fit.
- Made it so that the Raspberry Pi mounts directly to the bottom shell with screws through the holes in the PCB.
- Changed the top and bottom cutout styles
- Fixed all the geometry issues with the original design that I didn't care for

Just printed out the new base plate...made some tweaks and am reprinting the new version now.

[img]https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8638/16077161942_12b893374b_h.jpg[/img]

Also, changed up the top vent design a bit...thoughts?

Finalized and printed the design...I'm extremely happy with the results.

[img]https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8580/15897094527_f8d0bbda8d_h.jpg[/img]

[img]https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8579/16057060726_6341f229a3_o.jpg[/img]

[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7487/16082145452_3809a0f8d0_b.jpg[/img]

[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7571/15895417238_b85e35f962_b.jpg[/img]

[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7535/15897094237_c03243e7eb_b.jpg[/img]

[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7566/16080931361_4ef8b73527_b.jpg[/img]

Looks like a pretty good case design

I have tried astroprint and octoprint with the pi and I would not mind trying yours when you get around to placing something online

Just posted it up on Thingiverse...

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:608169

Great job on the Raspberry case and thanks for sharing the files!

very nice case design.
thanks for sharing.