TRAILtech's Rostock Build

TRAILtech · Post by **TRAILtech** » Fri Jun 28, 2013 1:26 am

Hello everyone,
I'm new to the forum, however I've been silently reading build threads for weeks. I ordered my full Rostock kit and it will ship to me Tuesday next week (7/2). I'm going to try and put together a full build thread... A little about myself, I'm a mechanical engineer; currently I work at a casting facility, however I have inspirations to start my own company which is why I have the need for a printer. Plus I've been wanting to build one for a long time...

Any words of wisdom will help throughout the build! I'm most worried about sanding the delta arms (I'm already considering saving myself some time and just ordering some from Trick laser). Any thoughts on this?

Thanks guys!

kbob · Post by **kbob** » Fri Jun 28, 2013 5:56 am

Welcome, and I hope you have a lot of fun. I certainly have been.

I chose to use the original delta arms. They work pretty well. Here are two suggestions for building them.

When sanding, it's easier to check clearance with a caliper than repeatedly test-fit the U-joints and shafts. When you get within 0.05 mm or so, you can start test-fitting.

When you assemble the arms, put some rubber bands around them. I had some free play in some of my joints, and the rubber bands pretty much eliminated it. TrickLaser sells bands, and the web site shows how they go, but ordinary rubber bands work just fine. Better, in fact, because the original delta arms are pretty flexible, and stronger rubber bands would bend them.

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Fri Jun 28, 2013 8:25 am

Hi TRAILtech!
Welcome and be sure you have the latest documentation that you can get here: http://www.geneb.org/rostock-max/Rostoc ... -Guide.pdf
IMO the trick laser arms can save you hours of time and outperform the stock arms. I would buy them assembled because many users report problems
building them and for the additional $20 you avoid the risk of screwing one of them forcing you to repurchase them again. Have a fun build.

TRAILtech · Post by **TRAILtech** » Thu Jul 04, 2013 12:30 pm

Finally! it's here.
[img]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e308/mxpxer7/IMG_0505.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e308/mxpxer7/IMG_0506.jpg[/img]

Step one for me was crimping all of the connectors onto the x y and z servos. The first lesson I learn is that CRIMPIN' aint easy. lol

Then I began assembling the Tri supports. I deviated from the Geneb manual a bit when it came to installing the servos to the supports. I found it easier to install the servo before installing the mounting plate. (below)

[img]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e308/mxpxer7/IMG_0509.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e308/mxpxer7/IMG_0510.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e308/mxpxer7/IMG_0511.jpg[/img]

Then I installed the supports to the base plate. So far no issues..

[img]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e308/mxpxer7/IMG_0515.jpg[/img]

The most difficult step so far has been installing the table

[img]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e308/mxpxer7/IMG_0516.jpg[/img]

I'm already thinking of upgrades... Which aftermarket arms are the best, the one's with the magnetic balls or the tricklaser carbon fiber?

Also, what is a J-head and does it really improve print quality?

TRAILtech · Post by **TRAILtech** » Thu Jul 04, 2013 12:41 pm

Also, what is easiest to work with PLA or ABS?

Polygonhell · Post by **Polygonhell** » Thu Jul 04, 2013 1:52 pm

Depends.
I think ABS is "easier", but it has it's own set of gotchas, notably warping, and layers not sticking together on larger prints.
To print PLA you need a fan on the Hotend and probably a second one to cool the plastic, if you don't have a Hotend fan it can jam, which can be all sorts of fun.
I swap between both, depending on what I'm doing.

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Thu Jul 04, 2013 3:27 pm

I have enclosed a picture of the j-head hotend. They have been around for a long time and are used in many home brew printers and some kits.
They excel at printing with PLA because a fan is placed to blow on the plastic part with the slots to keep that section cool. Note the groove at the
very top of the j-head. This is what is used to mount the j-head and the part that fits this groove is called a groove mount. Each hotend has its own
characteristics and one is not necessary better than another although some do seem to excel at printing various filaments. The latest hotends are made
from metal and have none of the plastic Peek that can melt if your hotend gets over 240 centigrade. The all metal hotends have there share of problems
also but they are the newest kid on the block and they will work out the "bugs". These all metal hotends are fast becoming the defacto standard for
3D printers and will become the hotend of the future. As you can see each hotend brings solutions and problems unique to itself and there is no such
thing as a perfect hotend. You will want to experiment with the different ones. A recommended j-head comes from hotends.com. The all metal hotends
come from various places but most on this Forum seem to buy the E3D hotend which is shipped from England at this time. I hoped that I answered some
of your questions about the j-head hotend and the other types on the market.

TRAILtech · Post by **TRAILtech** » Thu Jul 04, 2013 4:36 pm

Awesome! Thank you for the information!

Broose · Post by **Broose** » Thu Jul 04, 2013 9:40 pm

TRAILtech wrote: I'm already thinking of upgrades... Which aftermarket arms are the best, the one's with the magnetic balls or the tricklaser carbon fiber?

There are no aftermarket magnetic ball arms at this point. I built up a set from Xnaron's STLs and they work great but it was some work to make them. Also, you need to already be able to make good prints to print out the components of the mag arms. The one nice advantage of the magnetic arms is how fast you can disassemble the effector (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 230#p14642).

IMO Trick Laser arms are the fastest route to good prints and avoiding the Delta Arm Blues.

kbob · Post by **kbob** » Thu Jul 04, 2013 10:04 pm

It looks like you've already closed up your base. I'd have recommended that you install the RAMBo, the power supply, and do as much wiring as possible before closing the base -- it's just much easier to work in there before the table piece goes on.

(I had to remove and replace my RAMBo this week. Much less fun than the first time.)

More strong opinions can be found on my build log.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... =10#p13275

foshon · Post by **foshon** » Fri Jul 05, 2013 3:26 pm

Keep that crimp hand strong brother!!

TRAILtech · Post by **TRAILtech** » Tue Jul 09, 2013 10:56 pm

Ugh, sanding the brackets has been awful! How much play is TOO much play side to side? I think i probably have about .010" to .015" side to side...

[img]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e308/mxpxer7/photo4.jpg[/img]

kbob · Post by **kbob** » Wed Jul 10, 2013 4:58 am

TRAILtech wrote:Ugh, sanding the brackets has been awful! How much play is TOO much play side to side? I think i probably have about .010" to .015" side to side...

Put rubber bands around your arms. They will force the arms together and eliminate the play. Take a look at Tricklaser.com's Zero Lash Straps for how they go. I use them both at the skates and at the effector.

http://www.tricklaser.com/Zero-Lash-Straps-RM-ZLASH.htm

TRAILtech · Post by **TRAILtech** » Wed Jul 10, 2013 3:54 pm

Sounds like a plan. Thanks!

TRAILtech · Post by **TRAILtech** » Sat Jul 13, 2013 9:21 pm

Here's my progress so far...
[img]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e308/mxpxer7/photo5.jpg[/img]

I've been moving the arms around by hand and I'm noticing some black belt dust on the table... Do the belts typically wear down a bit at first or do i have them too tight??

Batteau62 · Post by **Batteau62** » Sat Jul 13, 2013 9:52 pm

Check the corners/edges of your extrusions on the cut ends. Mine were still very sharp from being cut. I used a "rubber bullet" in my dremel to smooth them off. You won't be able to get at the inner sufaces unless you do some disassembly.

I think belt tension is an individual judgement on a max. Since I've been on the forum I have never read a definitive setting-or way to measure for one.
I would also be careful running the cheapskates up and down if your steppers are plugged into the Rambo. I remember reading you can create some current doing this. Best not to tempt fate

Good luck with the rest of the build!

TRAILtech · Post by **TRAILtech** » Sun Jul 21, 2013 1:42 pm

Okay i F-ed up big time ...

I used 12 gauge wire on the hot end. Just realized I was supposed to use 22... I think its going to be too stiff for the printer to move around but I don't really know. I figure I'll keep going forward at this point and then re-wire it once I determine its messing my prints up.

[img]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e308/mxpxer7/photo7.jpg[/img]

foshon · Post by **foshon** » Sun Jul 21, 2013 3:43 pm

Assuming it's stranded wire, you should be fine. Those three motors have more power then most would reckon.

TRAILtech · Post by **TRAILtech** » Sun Jul 21, 2013 6:14 pm

Alright i have it all powered up, when i try to do G28 the machine just studders! My platform is sort of difficult to move by hand I think this may be the issue... Anyone experienced anything similar?

Post by **geneb** » Sun Jul 21, 2013 6:24 pm

Take the arms and belts off the Cheapskates. Raise each one to the top and drop it. If it doesn't fall smoothly and quickly, it's gripping the tower too tightly. Also, don't let them smack the base when you drop it.

g.

TRAILtech · Post by **TRAILtech** » Sun Jul 21, 2013 8:46 pm

Okay i figured it out... My steppers were shorted out, I messed up the plug install .

New Problem, hot end wont heat up. Its getting power, i don't understand...

cambo3d · Post by **cambo3d** » Mon Jul 22, 2013 11:24 am

TRAILtech wrote:Okay i figured it out... My steppers were shorted out, I messed up the plug install .

New Problem, hot end wont heat up. Its getting power, i don't understand...

check wiring, check thermistor connections.

TRAILtech · Post by **TRAILtech** » Wed Jul 24, 2013 3:38 pm

I figured it out... I'm a dummy, my resistor leads were connected to themselves. lol 1 too many beers that night.

Working on my first calibration cube now!

[img]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e308/mxpxer7/photo8.jpg[/img]

TRAILtech · Post by **TRAILtech** » Wed Jul 24, 2013 4:13 pm

All done!

Didn't turn out too great but I'm still super excited! Any suggestions will help!

Didn't fill in too good...

[img]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e308/mxpxer7/photo9.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e308/mxpxer7/photo10.jpg[/img]

kbob · Post by **kbob** » Thu Jul 25, 2013 4:52 am

Is that your very first print? It's very good for a first. Mine looked more like organized spaghetti.

You might try going through Polygonhell's extruder calibration procedure next.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1163

There is a thread hiding somewhere on these fora that links to a bunch of good calibration posts. I can't find it tonight, sorry.

Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

TRAILtech's Rostock Build

TRAILtech's Rostock Build

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