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Elmer's Washable School Glue Stick with the label "Disappearing Purple" is the stuff you need to use.

I've printed a lot of parts with that, both on my Orion and Orange Menace in ABS @80C. Zero adhesion issues.

Apply it to a cold bed, first with parallel lines across the bed and let dry. Then apply in parallel lines that are perpendicular to the first set. Let dry and print!

You also might try lowering your first layer height to .25.

g.

Well, the mirror thing was worth a try.

2nd print, not cooling down but right at the start of the print:

[img]http://www.simonlockwood.net/linky/3dp/mirrorglass.jpg[/img]

Time to go back to the flipped boro plate and order some new ones on Monday. $200 I'd rather spend on filament but them's the breaks I guess.

I did notice that a new approach with ABS juice made the 1st print lift nicely on this glass: not adding more juice for subsequent jobs but just brushing the leftovers on the glass around with pure acetone on the brush. Means I didn't get that buildup of juice that sticks like concrete. Will hopefully extend the lifetime of the new glass with this technique, we'll see.

Sigh.

geneb wrote:Elmer's Washable School Glue Stick with the label "Disappearing Purple" is the stuff you need to use.

I've printed a lot of parts with that, both on my Orion and Orange Menace in ABS @80C. Zero adhesion issues.

Apply it to a cold bed, first with parallel lines across the bed and let dry. Then apply in parallel lines that are perpendicular to the first set. Let dry and print!

You also might try lowering your first layer height to .25.

g.

Not something we get here, the white washable Papermate Glue stix is useless FYI.

First layer also has 130% width adjustment in slic3r to promote a real squishing which is fairly evident in the prints.

I was going to buy a five pack of those mirrors but after seeing that I am not so sure.

Yeah, I don't regret trying it because now I've eliminated the cheap option from my list of viable alternatives. But I won't be trying it again.

Captain Starfish wrote:Yeah, I don't regret trying it because now I've eliminated the cheap option from my list of viable alternatives. But I won't be trying it again.

By your trying it you saved me some money. There is no way I'm going to buy them after seeing them crack like that. Thanks!

A pleasure to be of service.

@Geneb - I bit the bullet and a few sticks (curse you, shipping fees!) of the disappearing purple are getting in a plane to come to live with me in the next few days.

My trick of more dilute ABS juice turned out to be not quite so successful - back to @#$@#(*$& lifting corners on the job.

When people talk about "printers" you get a picture in your head of hitting the print button and watching the paper come out of the printer with the image on it. Who'd have thought such a simple task could lead to such entertainment!?

These printers are still as much art as they are science.

g.

Captain Starfish wrote:A pleasure to be of service.

My trick of more dilute ABS juice turned out to be not quite so successful - back to @#$@#(*$& lifting corners on the job.

You're not supposed to drink it....

If you can get some 2-3mm poly sheeting, you can try draping it around your printer. Eliminates drafts and should allow the "chamber" to heat up a bit which should help with warp.

Or spend more time and money and build an enclosure like Bubbasnows

I know this is a drastic switch from using Boro or glass, but what about using a 1" plate of granite? It might take a bit to heat up, but small surface plates for measuring tight tolerances might be able to solve several problems. Most are 2-3" but I have seen some micro plates that were 9x12x1". Even a custom cut piece of granite countertop would be a better plate than the Boro glass I have sandwiched to the Onyx. My clips visibly warp the glass to the build plate.

1. Super flat surface for printing. Still very smooth as well for part removal.
2. No warping
3. Holds heat evenly and takes long time to cool.
Also seems to me that the added weight will make for a more solid bed overall and create a more stable printer with fast print jobs.
Just thinking out loud..

cjdavis618 wrote:I know this is a drastic switch from using Boro or glass, but what about using a 1" plate of granite? It might take a bit to heat up, but small surface plates for measuring tight tolerances might be able to solve several problems. Most are 2-3" but I have seen some micro plates that were 9x12x1". Even a custom cut piece of granite countertop would be a better plate than the Boro glass I have sandwiched to the Onyx. My clips visibly warp the glass to the build plate.

1. Super flat surface for printing. Still very smooth as well for part removal.
2. No warping
3. Holds heat evenly and takes long time to cool.
Also seems to me that the added weight will make for a more solid bed overall and create a more stable printer with fast print jobs.
Just thinking out loud..

You forgot #4. Takes forever to heat to temperature. If that could be solved I think that granite would make a fantastic plate. Even at a 1" thickness it would take a
long time to get to temp if the Onyx is heating it, even at 24v. You mentioned it would take a bit to heat but that is a very large mass that you would be heating.

Agreed, but you don't have to heat it on the machine if you are in a hurry. You could put it in an oven to start the processes and get it close to temp and then let the onyx stabilize it. For any of us that have marathon print sessions, it could work out as long as we know the plate will take a while to heat on the machine.

I have a client that is a custom countertop maker that specializes in marble/granite. I think I will pick up a 12" granite lazy suzan she sells and try it out.

This is all about experimentation. Why not.

Both glass and Aluminum loose the generated heat faster than the granite. The stone will hold it for much longer and more evenly heat overall. This would be ideal for enclosed printers as well due to the volume of radiant heat supplied by the stone.

cjdavis618 wrote:Agreed, but you don't have to heat it on the machine if you are in a hurry. You could put it in an oven to start the processes and get it close to temp and then let the onyx stabilize it. For any of us that have marathon print sessions, it could work out as long as we know the plate will take a while to heat on the machine.

I have a client that is a custom countertop maker that specializes in marble/granite. I think I will pick up a 12" granite lazy suzan she sells and try it out.

This is all about experimentation. Why not.

Both glass and Aluminum loose the generated heat faster than the granite. The stone will hold it for much longer and more evenly heat overall. This would be ideal for enclosed printers as well due to the volume of radiant heat supplied by the stone.

We are both in agreement that it would make a fantastic build plate, how to get it to temperature quickly is the problem that needs solved.
There is a solution to every problem, it's difficult at times to find it.