Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Made my own version of the Monolithic Platform for the E3Dv6. I need work on fit and finish and get it assembled. I made the holes under sized and going to ream them out to fit the pins. I'll go over the details later once it's complete. I printed this one in PLA, since that's what I had in the machine. I have plans to print the next one in ABS and with a mounting location for a 40mm layer fan, using this one that I just made. Used Simplify3D for the slicing, love that program so far, and the support material came right out with no issues. All clean breaks.

What is required for hooking up the E3D v6 on the firmware and software side? I'm hoping that it is just plug and play, but I'm not sure.

BONE wrote:What is required for hooking up the E3D v6 on the firmware and software side? I'm hoping that it is just plug and play, but I'm not sure.

Not quite plug and play. The thermistor type has to be updated and the pid tuning has to be rerun.

jmpreuss wrote:

BONE wrote:What is required for hooking up the E3D v6 on the firmware and software side? I'm hoping that it is just plug and play, but I'm not sure.

Not quite plug and play. The thermistor type has to be updated and the pid tuning has to be rerun.

Not sure on how to update the thermistor type. Are there instruction on how to that on the MAX v2 somewhere?

If I do the autotune in Repetier, that is the PID tuning correct?

Why not just use the same thermistor as use in the stock head? Seems like updating the thermistor type would then not be needed.

nitewatchman

nitewatchman wrote:Why not just use the same thermistor as use in the stock head? Seems like updating the thermistor type would then not be needed.

nitewatchman

Both thermistors look the same and maybe the same part number, but I need to confirm if they both are the same or measure the same range. I would like to leave the stock hotend a complete unit and have it has a backup. Really dont to have to dig out the silicone.

I tend to keep a couple of spares including the screw-ins. I got my E3D here (unassembled) I'll measure the included thermistor and see what it thinks it is.

BONE wrote:

nitewatchman wrote:Why not just use the same thermistor as use in the stock head? Seems like updating the thermistor type would then not be needed.

nitewatchman

Both thermistors look the same and maybe the same part number, but I need to confirm if they both are the same or measure the same range. I would like to leave the stock hotend a complete unit and have it has a backup. Really dont to have to dig out the silicone.

I just did this upgrade. The thermistor type needs to be changed to type 8. I think type 87 is stock. First you want to export and save you Eprom settings in repetier, if the machine is already built and setup, then open the firmware in arduino ide. Click on the configuration.h tab and find thermistor type and change to type 8. Also find define max temp and change to 300(needed for the tighteng nozzle procedure). Then just upload the firmware, import your eprom settings you saved and your done.

pmazz850 wrote:

BONE wrote:

nitewatchman wrote:Why not just use the same thermistor as use in the stock head? Seems like updating the thermistor type would then not be needed.

nitewatchman

Both thermistors look the same and maybe the same part number, but I need to confirm if they both are the same or measure the same range. I would like to leave the stock hotend a complete unit and have it has a backup. Really dont to have to dig out the silicone.

I just did this upgrade. The thermistor type needs to be changed to type 8. I think type 87 is stock. First you want to export and save you Eprom settings in repetier, if the machine is already built and setup, then open the firmware in arduino ide. Click on the configuration.h tab and find thermistor type and change to type 8. Also find define max temp and change to 300(needed for the tighteng nozzle procedure). Then just upload the firmware, import your eprom settings you saved and your done.

Thanks, I'll get to this soon. Been away from the printer for a few weeks.

do you use a layer fan at all

Can this be modified to work with the trick laser arms?

predawnsky wrote:do you use a layer fan at all

I've remodeled this platform so I can add features like a layer fan. Hope to get to it soon.

mlapaglia wrote:Can this be modified to work with the trick laser arms?

Do you have drawings or info on how to mount the trick laser arms?

It mounts using the normal effector platform that comes with the v2 kit:
http://www.tricklaser.com/images/Trick% ... nstall.jpg

The Monolithic Platform is the same as version 2 in that link. You should be able thread that rod through the holes. I did redesign mine to have slightly tighter holes to make sure that the rod is nice and tight. I also changed a few dimensions to make things tighter and then file to fit.

Hey guys, FIRST POST!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So after lurking in the shadows for 3 months, I can't resist anymore. I must join.

Back to business, after receiving my e3d yesterday and looking at my mounting options, I wasted no time in printing this. Layer set at .3, sliced with cura, line support everywhere. Let me say It works flawlessly first time out, everything fit perfect and assembled like a dream!!!! As far as the no layer fan issue, well i dont really consider it an issue b/c the parts I make (mostly centrifugal pumps amongst other various goodies) that aren't just for aesthetics but actually have to WORK, and PLA isn't nearly strong enough nor does hold up to any sort of warm temperature. I'm actually really looking forward to start playing with nylon to try and make my parts even stronger..... but that's a whole other post.

eatoutmikey wrote:Hey guys, FIRST POST!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So after lurking in the shadows for 3 months, I can't resist anymore. I must join.

Back to business, after receiving my e3d yesterday and looking at my mounting options, I wasted no time in printing this. Layer set at .3, sliced with cura, line support everywhere. Let me say It works flawlessly first time out, everything fit perfect and assembled like a dream!!!! As far as the no layer fan issue, well i dont really consider it an issue b/c the parts I make (mostly centrifugal pumps amongst other various goodies) that aren't just for aesthetics but actually have to WORK, and PLA isn't nearly strong enough nor does hold up to any sort of warm temperature. I'm actually really looking forward to start playing with nylon to try and make my parts even stronger..... but that's a whole other post.

Great you are on the light now!

Just got my Monolithic Platform with E3D v6 together and working. Worked right really well right out of the gate, super excited. Printed a test piece to make sure that everything worked right and now back onto a customer job. The thermistor on the stock hotend fell out and snapped a wire. There was lots of smoke, luckily I was there when it happened. That silicone does not hold very well in a straight hole.

With the new setup, I gained about 11mm more height and can print just over 400mm now.

Couple of issues with having the new platform close to the bed. One, it's hardier to see right where the nozzle is printing. Second, watch out for the arms hitting the binder clips when getting close to the perimeter. Going to to have to work on both those issues.

Installed: [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_iBZOQ6m1IU[/youtube]

BONE wrote:
With the new setup, I gained about 11mm more height and can print just over 400mm now.

Couple of issues with having the new platform close to the bed. One, it's hardier to see right where the nozzle is printing. Second, watch out for the arms hitting the binder clips when getting close to the perimeter. Going to to have to work on both those issues.

Installed:

20141102_124056.jpg

http://youtu.be/_iBZOQ6m1IU?list=UUVIpI ... CTDkEjACWg

I had the same problems. I ended up making my mount 10mm smaller in order to have the nozzle stick out more. Takes you back to the same 390ish build height you had before, but my arms don't come anywhere near the table now(I found out they would rub the table/previous layer(s) on bigger prints), plus as an added bonus I can see the nozzle a lot better. Can post an updated .stl or .step file if you guys want.

Yea, I have one arm is just hitting the piece on a long reach. The print is 30 hours for a customer and I was worried about it. It's over half way done and I just letting it go. I'm going to file the need of the arms and see if that solves the issues for the next print. I have no time to make another platform as I have jobs due and running out of time.

I'm happy I got the new hotend on also. I'm going to be displaying the printing at a Meetup on Wednesday.

The next platform design I'll probably raise up just 2mm, that will be plenty of clearance. I'm going to post my STL files here also once I get the bugs worked out.

BONE wrote:Made my own version of the Monolithic Platform for the E3Dv6. I need work on fit and finish and get it assembled. I made the holes under sized and going to ream them out to fit the pins. I'll go over the details later once it's complete. I printed this one in PLA, since that's what I had in the machine. I have plans to print the next one in ABS and with a mounting location for a 40mm layer fan, using this one that I just made. Used Simplify3D for the slicing, love that program so far, and the support material came right out with no issues. All clean breaks.

10645118_631093363673488_8773204288794771018_n.jpg

is Simplify3D worth the money, oh and do you know were the best place to earn some jobs for printing

eatoutmikey wrote:
I had the same problems. I ended up making my mount 10mm smaller in order to have the nozzle stick out more. Takes you back to the same 390ish build height you had before, but my arms don't come anywhere near the table now(I found out they would rub the table/previous layer(s) on bigger prints), plus as an added bonus I can see the nozzle a lot better. Can post an updated .stl or .step file if you guys want.

Would not mind an .stl if you can manage one, I normally use an angel eye with 18 Leds and I need the space so I can still have it fitted.

eatoutmikey wrote:

BONE wrote:
With the new setup, I gained about 11mm more height and can print just over 400mm now.

Couple of issues with having the new platform close to the bed. One, it's hardier to see right where the nozzle is printing. Second, watch out for the arms hitting the binder clips when getting close to the perimeter. Going to to have to work on both those issues.

Installed:

20141102_124056.jpg

http://youtu.be/_iBZOQ6m1IU?list=UUVIpI ... CTDkEjACWg

I had the same problems. I ended up making my mount 10mm smaller in order to have the nozzle stick out more. Takes you back to the same 390ish build height you had before, but my arms don't come anywhere near the table now(I found out they would rub the table/previous layer(s) on bigger prints), plus as an added bonus I can see the nozzle a lot better. Can post an updated .stl or .step file if you guys want.

An stl for this would be great as I would like to keep the stock height.

Also, can someone tell me how to print this with supports but not have it print supports through the pin holes? I'm using kisslicer and can't figure that out.

Thanks.

Seems like fixing the support problem is alot more work than just reaming out the holes with a drill. it's fairly easy. I always found most holes in my prints are able to guide the bit rather well so no need for any crazy accurate approach.

SEBRET wrote:Seems like fixing the support problem is alot more work than just reaming out the holes with a drill. it's fairly easy. I always found most holes in my prints are able to guide the bit rather well so no need for any crazy accurate approach.

I dont print support in the 3mm pin holes for the pivot rod. I printed them under size at about 2.8 I think and then drill them out to 3mm. I find that the drill follows the holes pretty well also. The pins I have actually measure 3.15mm and it makes for a tight fit. The Trick Laser arms I'm getting uses a threaded rod, so I'm going to print the holes next time to the root diameter of the M3 thread and thread it in.

I'll post a file of my design soon. I'm going to try and put as much of a draft angle as I can on the walls, so hopefully it will reduce the need for the current support. Might work on it tonight

crocky wrote:

eatoutmikey wrote:
I had the same problems. I ended up making my mount 10mm smaller in order to have the nozzle stick out more. Takes you back to the same 390ish build height you had before, but my arms don't come anywhere near the table now(I found out they would rub the table/previous layer(s) on bigger prints), plus as an added bonus I can see the nozzle a lot better. Can post an updated .stl or .step file if you guys want.

Would not mind an .stl if you can manage one, I normally use an angel eye with 18 Leds and I need the space so I can still have it fitted.

Sorry I have been slacking..... here you gohttps://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8A_iz ... sp=sharing that's 10mm shorter...... should definately give you enough room to mount your led