Have a look around and join today!
https://forum.seemecnc.com/
Famous last wordsTKL wrote:Don't worry about the calculations; I am E-Engineer.
. I don't doubt your engineering skills, but real world experience says that what the board is designed to do will differ (sometimes greatly) from what the board actually does. I do like the board design, is that the top or the bottom?Have you tried gluing it to a stiff glass or other metal on the backside so you still print on the tracks?Leeway wrote:I have the larger heated circuit board and I would not even consider printing directly on it. No matter how it is mounted, it can warp with heat. Glass is what most use. It will heat glass well, but takes a bit longer. A really short time in the scheme of long prints though.
Mine heats up 1/4" Pyrex glass with 14 VDC @ 15 amps to 110 C in less than 5 minutes. That is a 9" x 9" piece of glass with an 8" x 8" PCB.
Private messaging for you does not work.TKL wrote:Buying a single board is very expensive and I feel pretty sudden the design will work +/-10% of the power I mentioned. I expect to print on the track side and there will be no need for cobber on the other side. Printing on the back side will just stress the PCB more because you will need to make the board much hotter on the track side.
No. I wouldn't do that. It is much nicer to be able to remove the print bed quickly for cleaning and ease of removing some parts. Also with the glass, cool down times can be long, so if you wanted to immediately print something else, swap out the glass panes carefully, let the second one heat while the first one cools slowly and start printing again before the first one is ready to remove the part.TKL wrote:Have you tried gluing it to a stiff glass or other metal on the backside so you still print on the tracks?Leeway wrote:I have the larger heated circuit board and I would not even consider printing directly on it. No matter how it is mounted, it can warp with heat. Glass is what most use. It will heat glass well, but takes a bit longer. A really short time in the scheme of long prints though.
Mine heats up 1/4" Pyrex glass with 14 VDC @ 15 amps to 110 C in less than 5 minutes. That is a 9" x 9" piece of glass with an 8" x 8" PCB.
I would never print directly to the PCB, a piece of aluminum or glass will conduct the heat.TKL wrote:Have you tried gluing it to a stiff glass or other metal on the backside so you still print on the tracks?Leeway wrote:I have the larger heated circuit board and I would not even consider printing directly on it. No matter how it is mounted, it can warp with heat. Glass is what most use. It will heat glass well, but takes a bit longer. A really short time in the scheme of long prints though.
Mine heats up 1/4" Pyrex glass with 14 VDC @ 15 amps to 110 C in less than 5 minutes. That is a 9" x 9" piece of glass with an 8" x 8" PCB.
You responded to my email account and I have sent you several emails, have you received them?TKL wrote:Here it is (cobber layer only). The pads looks a bit wrong due to a missing apt file and the led is not added yet. The board is for 12 and 24V actually. The heating tracks are split into two 12V / 60W sections. You put them in parallel for 12V and series for 24V. Don't worry about the calculations; I am E-Engineer.
Yeah, I am finding the nichrome wire bed to work, but is not optimal, specially for larger build quantities, its too complex for assembly and much more cost compared to the PCB solution.johnoly99 wrote:Yeah. Weve been playing with nichrome to make an easy diy bed, but at the prices we are seeing, it makes sense to go this route. I emailed and told him were in for 10 or so to fill the order, and once we all get them and see if were happy, we will work something out to stock a pcb board. Just wanna make sure were happy with these before dropping a big order.
michaellatif wrote:Yeah, I am finding the nichrome wire bed to work, but is not optimal, specially for larger build quantities, its too complex assembly and higher cost compared to the PCB solution.johnoly99 wrote:Yeah. Weve been playing with nichrome to make an easy diy bed, but at the prices we are seeing, it makes sense to go this route. I emailed and told him were in for 10 or so to fill the order, and once we all get them and see if were happy, we will work something out to stock a pcb board. Just wanna make sure were happy with these before dropping a big order.
If we can hit 100 boards that will drop the cost by 40%, but that is not likely to happen until we have a proven working prototype.
Eaglezsoar and TKL, any updates?
TKL has not been on the Forum since April 24. He is from Denmark and I think that my questions to him made him angry. I was willing to pay for all the boards left after the orders were placed but I wanted a prototype tomichaellatif wrote:michaellatif wrote:Yeah, I am finding the nichrome wire bed to work, but is not optimal, specially for larger build quantities, its too complex assembly and higher cost compared to the PCB solution.johnoly99 wrote:Yeah. Weve been playing with nichrome to make an easy diy bed, but at the prices we are seeing, it makes sense to go this route. I emailed and told him were in for 10 or so to fill the order, and once we all get them and see if were happy, we will work something out to stock a pcb board. Just wanna make sure were happy with these before dropping a big order.
If we can hit 100 boards that will drop the cost by 40%, but that is not likely to happen until we have a proven working prototype.
Eaglezsoar and TKL, any updates?
Hey Michael,mhackney wrote:I researched this quite a bit before going down the nichrome wire path. The challenge is finding the proper PCB with a thicker layer of copper than standard boards. I searched until my fingers were blue and could not find a source that had less than a $500 minimum. I am all set up to CNC mill boards and have an untested design. If anyone can find a source for raw PCB let me know.
cheers,
Michael
Cool, didn't know that existed.Extrude3D wrote:OP, if you would like to manage this idea better, just use http://www.chipin.com/ to rally funds.
We can establish a new topic and make a 'buyers' list showing who bought what and how many slots are/were available.
You do need a verified paypal in good standing if you are going to collect many donations individually, use chipin please so you dont get limitedmichaellatif wrote:Cool, didn't know that existed.Extrude3D wrote:OP, if you would like to manage this idea better, just use http://www.chipin.com/ to rally funds.
We can establish a new topic and make a 'buyers' list showing who bought what and how many slots are/were available.
TKL, let me know when you guys get ready to prototype and collect money.
