First 3D Printer Build
Re: First 3D Printer Build
That makes sense, and I guess since I am running on 115200 baudrate it doesn't help.
Bed leveling is getting better. I really think my x rail is slipping or something but not sure how to show it or nail it down.
Bed leveling is getting better. I really think my x rail is slipping or something but not sure how to show it or nail it down.
Re: First 3D Printer Build
did a quick reprint. did not make any changes just homed the axis and printed
Checking for consistence. Printed another that looked just like this.
As anyone printed something like this before to check the flatness of the bed. I am interested in seeing some other results.
Checking for consistence. Printed another that looked just like this.
As anyone printed something like this before to check the flatness of the bed. I am interested in seeing some other results.
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Re: First 3D Printer Build
Honestly that last one doesn't look very far off o me, I'd say in general your 0 is a little high, possibly a little higher on the outside than the inside but I don't notice any gross errors.
If you're having issues with repeatability of the endstops, move the switches so that the screw head hits closer to the button.
If you're having issues with repeatability of the endstops, move the switches so that the screw head hits closer to the button.
Printer blog http://3dprinterhell.blogspot.com/
Re: First 3D Printer Build
Took a break from the neverending leveling process and removed the delta arms for some sanding. While the arms were off I decided it would be a good time to install some LCD lights and the LCD. I installed some lights in the base as well but I forgot to take a picture of those.
Re: First 3D Printer Build
Ok back to leveling. Yesterday I was experiencing an issue with changing the XYZ tower heights in the config file and eeprom. I wanted to avoid using to screws for now since I now have the LCD installed and it allows for 0.01 increments. However, the printer seemed to be ignoring changes made to “X,Y,Z_MAX_LENGTH”.
I would go down to the print bed to determine the offset value, say... 1.5mm. Make the needed changes to the parameter (adjust by 1.5mm) and recompile.
Then recheck the height at the column and the same offset value is shown (1.5mm). I repeated this several times and no changes where reflected in the printer. I tried this both by recompling with eeprom off and making the changes using M206. When I used M206 commands I would check the value with M205 to ensure to eeprom of have been changed but I would still get the same results.
If I tried to adjust the bed with screws things seem to be working normally. However, I am not really sure what MAX LENGTH is being used since changes dont seem to have an effect. I know eeprom issues have been discussed in great length but I did not find any solutions.
I would go down to the print bed to determine the offset value, say... 1.5mm. Make the needed changes to the parameter (adjust by 1.5mm) and recompile.
Then recheck the height at the column and the same offset value is shown (1.5mm). I repeated this several times and no changes where reflected in the printer. I tried this both by recompling with eeprom off and making the changes using M206. When I used M206 commands I would check the value with M205 to ensure to eeprom of have been changed but I would still get the same results.
If I tried to adjust the bed with screws things seem to be working normally. However, I am not really sure what MAX LENGTH is being used since changes dont seem to have an effect. I know eeprom issues have been discussed in great length but I did not find any solutions.
Last edited by aerouta on Thu Apr 11, 2013 6:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: First 3D Printer Build
The only thing controlled in the firmware is the Z offset and the DELTA_RADIUS, it ignores the X and Y values for delta printers.aerouta wrote:Ok back to leveling. Yesterday I was experiencing an issue with changing the XYZ tower heights in the config file and eeprom. I wanted to avoid using to screws for now since I now have the LCD installed and it allows for 0.01 increments. However, the printer seemed to be ignoring changes made to “X,Y,Z_MAX_LENGTH”.
I would go down to the print bed to determine the offset value, say... 1.5mm. Make the needed changes to the parameter (adjust by 1.5mm) and recompile.
Then recheck the height at the column and the same offset value is shown (1.5mm). I repeated this several times and no changes where reflected in the printer. I tried this both by recompling with eeprom off and making the changes using M206. When I used M206 commands I would check the value with M205 to ensure to eeprom of have been changed but I would still get the same results.
If I tried to adjust the bed with screws things seem to be working normally. However, I am not really sure what MAX LENGTH is being used.
You have to use the screws to level the motion of the head relative to the bed.
Printer blog http://3dprinterhell.blogspot.com/
Re: First 3D Printer Build
Great thanks, I knew that was true for Marlin and don't know why I thought differently for yours.
THanks!
THanks!
Re: First 3D Printer Build
Polygonhell, You asked this question a well back and I blew it off. It turns out I am having this issue. At least on the Y towerx-77.94 y-45. Checking the height after a G28 yeilds the accurate height.( i.e. paper catches at 0.03mm). If I G28, then go to the X tower(x-77.94 y-45) then go back to the Y tower the paper catches at 0.21mm.Polygonhell wrote:.
Quick question when you calibrate do you always visit the 3 corner positions in the same order, if you visit them in the opposite order do you get the same values?
I just repositioned the endstops to ensure that they have the most deflection.
I am hoping you have an easy solution to this......
Just checked the other towers, the zheight on the towers seem to depend on the path to the calibration points. (x-77.94 y-45),(x77.94 y-45),(x- y90)
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Re: First 3D Printer Build
The reason I asked the question is that if that's the case you have a mechanical issue or you're hitting the bed during calibration and the stepper is skipping causing all subsequent positions to be incorrect. Probably the former.aerouta wrote:Polygonhell, You asked this question a well back and I blew it off. It turns out I am having this issue. At least on the Y towerx-77.94 y-45. Checking the height after a G28 yeilds the accurate height.( i.e. paper catches at 0.03mm). If I G28, then go to the X tower(x-77.94 y-45) then go back to the Y tower the paper catches at 0.21mm.Polygonhell wrote:.
Quick question when you calibrate do you always visit the 3 corner positions in the same order, if you visit them in the opposite order do you get the same values?
I just repositioned the endstops to ensure that they have the most deflection.
I am hoping you have an easy solution to this......
Just checked the other towers, the zheight on the towers seem to depend on the path to the calibration points. (x-77.94 y-45),(x77.94 y-45),(x- y90)
I would check your belts for damage to start with.
Printer blog http://3dprinterhell.blogspot.com/
Re: First 3D Printer Build
Just checked the belts, no sign of damage.
Re: First 3D Printer Build
All my towers are acting the same way. I have them calibrated. They all grab a piece of paper at ~0.03mm after a G28 move. However, if I perform a G28, then a, X0 Y0 Z2, then go the towers calibration points they all grab at ~0.23mm.
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Re: First 3D Printer Build
Just checking you are using M114 to get the actual position.
If all the towers show an offset it's likely an issue with repeatability on the home switches, a single tower can also show this.
If you home again without changing anything is it the same or different?
If you see this move the limit switches so that the screw hits as close as possible to the button on the switch using as little of the lever as possible, you should get be able to get <0.05mm variance when homing.
You can also try slowing down the homing speed in either the firmware or EEPROM if you are using repetier.
But if you get CONSISTENTLY different results moving clockwise around the plate vs anticlockwise, you have a "backlash" (and I use the term loosely) issue, which is either belts (damaged, too lose or too tight), arm joints (too tight or excessive slop), Cheap skates (excessive slop or not moving smoothly). Usually the issue is not all 3 axis and if you move the carriages by hand (gently) you can feel one that's different.
If all the towers show an offset it's likely an issue with repeatability on the home switches, a single tower can also show this.
If you home again without changing anything is it the same or different?
If you see this move the limit switches so that the screw hits as close as possible to the button on the switch using as little of the lever as possible, you should get be able to get <0.05mm variance when homing.
You can also try slowing down the homing speed in either the firmware or EEPROM if you are using repetier.
But if you get CONSISTENTLY different results moving clockwise around the plate vs anticlockwise, you have a "backlash" (and I use the term loosely) issue, which is either belts (damaged, too lose or too tight), arm joints (too tight or excessive slop), Cheap skates (excessive slop or not moving smoothly). Usually the issue is not all 3 axis and if you move the carriages by hand (gently) you can feel one that's different.
Printer blog http://3dprinterhell.blogspot.com/
Re: First 3D Printer Build
I do not think its the home switch because they dont come into play when the offset shows. I can home then go straight to the calibration point several times and I get the same results. The offset comes only after I leave the calibration point to some other location, like the center, and then return to the calibration point. As soon as I home and go straight to the calibration point the offset goes away. So yes I can home again without anything changing and I get consistent results.Polygonhell wrote:Just checking you are using M114 to get the actual position.
If all the towers show an offset it's likely an issue with repeatability on the home switches, a single tower can also show this.
If you home again without changing anything is it the same or different?
If you see this move the limit switches so that the screw hits as close as possible to the button on the switch using as little of the lever as possible, you should get be able to get <0.05mm variance when homing.
You can also try slowing down the homing speed in either the firmware or EEPROM if you are using repetier.
But if you get CONSISTENTLY different results moving clockwise around the plate vs anticlockwise, you have a "backlash" (and I use the term loosely) issue, which is either belts (damaged, too lose or too tight), arm joints (too tight or excessive slop), Cheap skates (excessive slop or not moving smoothly). Usually the issue is not all 3 axis and if you move the carriages by hand (gently) you can feel one that's different.
I have not tried clockwise verses anticlockwise, I have just moved to (0,0) and returned and i get the same offset ~0.22mm across the towers.
I have sanded my arms smooth, so I dont think its that. I can check the smoothness of my carriages. It sounds like I should ensure they all require a similar "none excessive" amount of force to move?
Michael, how are those ball joints coming??
Re: First 3D Printer Build
Very perplexing issue. So, I want to make sure I understand and that you've collected all the data:
You do a G28 to home the axes.
Have you then performed a G0 X0 Y0 Z0 F2500 - to go to 0,0,0? And if so, you should have a slightly "grippy" paper test, correct?
Then, move to one of the calibration points with a GO X-77.94 Y-45? And what does the paper test indicate?
Then, move back to 0,0,0 G0 X0 Y0 Z0 - what do you get?
Do this sequence with all 3 towers and back to center?
Thanks,
Michael
You do a G28 to home the axes.
Have you then performed a G0 X0 Y0 Z0 F2500 - to go to 0,0,0? And if so, you should have a slightly "grippy" paper test, correct?
Then, move to one of the calibration points with a GO X-77.94 Y-45? And what does the paper test indicate?
Then, move back to 0,0,0 G0 X0 Y0 Z0 - what do you get?
Do this sequence with all 3 towers and back to center?
Thanks,
Michael
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
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The Eclectic Angler
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Re: First 3D Printer Build
I suspect that your DELTA_RADIUS is slightly off and you are hitting the platform on the return to center and dragging the nozzle resulting lost steps.
If you do the following do you see the same offset?
HOME
Move to Calibration point offset - verify height
Move up 5mm
Move to X0 Y0
Move to Calibration point XY (not Z = 0)
Move to Z0 - verify height
The idea is to be clear of the bed moving to and from the center, the Z moves are symmetric, so should have no effect on the final positioning.
The way the Firmware works is it tracks the position in steps, so how you get there makes no difference, the only things that introduce error, are lost steps, and mechanical issues.
If you do the following do you see the same offset?
HOME
Move to Calibration point offset - verify height
Move up 5mm
Move to X0 Y0
Move to Calibration point XY (not Z = 0)
Move to Z0 - verify height
The idea is to be clear of the bed moving to and from the center, the Z moves are symmetric, so should have no effect on the final positioning.
The way the Firmware works is it tracks the position in steps, so how you get there makes no difference, the only things that introduce error, are lost steps, and mechanical issues.
Printer blog http://3dprinterhell.blogspot.com/
Re: First 3D Printer Build
I have not performed the grip test at (0,0). I set the z height to get me in the ballpark then started on the towers. I figured I would correct (0,0) with delta radius after I was done with the towers.mhackney wrote:Very perplexing issue. So, I want to make sure I understand and that you've collected all the data:
You do a G28 to home the axes.
Have you then performed a G0 X0 Y0 Z0 F2500 - to go to 0,0,0? And if so, you should have a slightly "grippy" paper test, correct?
Then, move to one of the calibration points with a GO X-77.94 Y-45? And what does the paper test indicate?
Then, move back to 0,0,0 G0 X0 Y0 Z0 - what do you get?
Do this sequence with all 3 towers and back to center?
Thanks,
Michael
So I calibrated all the towers, which each check immediately following a G28 (never moving across the plate). Everything checks out fine. I can do this repeatedly.
The issue comes when I move to (0,0).
Here are some sequences and results. I don't check height at (0,0). I figured I need to nail down the towers first.
Polygon, Notice I command an increase of 5mm between the center and tower commands to ensure I am not dragging.
G28
X-tower - 0.03
G28
Y-tower - 0.03
G28
Z-tower - 0.03
G28
center (0,0,5)
X-tower - 0.20mm
G28
X-tower - 0.03mm
center (0,0,5)
X-tower - 0.20mm
Re: First 3D Printer Build
Ok, it seems you have backlash somewhere. If you repeat the sequence to the x tower to center and back 10 times, do you get variation in the measured height? How are you measuring the height?
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Re: First 3D Printer Build
Here is a picture of a print I just made. I think it may confirm you backlash issue. I have not repeated it up 10 times to see if I get to same results. I will do that next.
Not sure how to interpret this.
Not sure how to interpret this.
Re: First 3D Printer Build
Either it is a simple belt tensioning issue or something else!
The good news is, that is so bad it should be easy to find the source.
The big sidestep is indicative of skipping a tooth on the belt. Do you hear it, a thunk?
The good news is, that is so bad it should be easy to find the source.
The big sidestep is indicative of skipping a tooth on the belt. Do you hear it, a thunk?
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
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Re: First 3D Printer Build
Looks much more like missing steps than backlash to me.
I can't tell is the print vertical before the obvious shift?
I can't tell is the print vertical before the obvious shift?
Printer blog http://3dprinterhell.blogspot.com/
Re: First 3D Printer Build
the print seems sligtly off vertical.
Do I need to tighten up the belts?
Do I need to tighten up the belts?
Re: First 3D Printer Build
I have some belt damage. Anyone wanna guess with axis??
Re: First 3D Printer Build
Y
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
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The Eclectic Angler
Re: First 3D Printer Build
Can you photograph the belt damage? How many hours of operation do you estimate on the machine? How tight are the belts? Curious minds want to know!
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Re: First 3D Printer Build
Y is correct! I'm impressed
I estimate less than 8 in prints and at least 30hr calibrating height. Pretty depressing when you think about it....
Not really sure how to accurately convey the tightness of the belts. I pulled the belts as hard as i could then clamped them down. I also had the top bearings pulled up about halfway.
I am guessing having the belt too tight caused this?
I estimate less than 8 in prints and at least 30hr calibrating height. Pretty depressing when you think about it....
Not really sure how to accurately convey the tightness of the belts. I pulled the belts as hard as i could then clamped them down. I also had the top bearings pulled up about halfway.
I am guessing having the belt too tight caused this?
Last edited by aerouta on Fri Apr 12, 2013 9:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.