
(I know)
why not shiny brass??Generic Default wrote:The weight is in the range of 60 grams. It can't be exactly measured in practice because the bowden tubes and wiring are flexible and share their mass between the moving platform and the printer frame. Still, ~60 grams is good for three hotends right?
And yes, it does have a screw to hold the thermistor in place. Very similar to the E3D, except without the washer. I was proud of myself for figuring out a good way to secure the thermistor leads, but then I found out that E3D came out with a new version of its hotend a few days before, and the new version had pretty much exactly the same thing. I guess Sanjay beat me to it by a few months!
I know that most companies take pre-orders long before the product ships, but I want to be 100% sure that nothing will go wrong between the time people pay and the time their hotend ships. So I'll open up the retail website in the next few days and update it with pictures.
Anyone want to guess why the nozzles aren't shiny brass?
I am sold, I want to test it as soon as you get it readyGeneric Default wrote:The weight is in the range of 60 grams. It can't be exactly measured in practice because the bowden tubes and wiring are flexible and share their mass between the moving platform and the printer frame. Still, ~60 grams is good for three hotends right?
And yes, it does have a screw to hold the thermistor in place. Very similar to the E3D, except without the washer. I was proud of myself for figuring out a good way to secure the thermistor leads, but then I found out that E3D came out with a new version of its hotend a few days before, and the new version had pretty much exactly the same thing. I guess Sanjay beat me to it by a few months!
I know that most companies take pre-orders long before the product ships, but I want to be 100% sure that nothing will go wrong between the time people pay and the time their hotend ships. So I'll open up the retail website in the next few days and update it with pictures.
Anyone want to guess why the nozzles aren't shiny brass?
Because they're either coated with something (to prevent crud from sticking?), or they're not regular old brass. Could they be bronze perhaps? They look yellowish in the threaded area, so I'm thinking they're not stainless, unless your $7 photoshoot had weird lighting. Bronze would be tougher than brass, but still better thermal conductivity compared to stainless.Generic Default wrote: Anyone want to guess why the nozzles aren't shiny brass?
I think we have a fan of the tri hot end!! (well ... two!)McSlappy wrote:Because they're made from SOLID GOLD, BABY! YES THAT'S RIGHT, WITH THE RELEASE OF THE TRI HOTEND YOU GET NOT ONE, NOT TWO, BUT THREE SOLID GOLD NOZZLES!!! Terms and conditions apply.
And now ... which board should I use for this tri-baby????Generic Default wrote:Yep, I'll probably sell individual parts in the future. For now, there are a bunch of people who need two or three hotends, so the first bunch will be kitted for all three nozzles at once.
But you can run the Tri hotend with only one or two nozzles inserted. The heat sink has more than enough cooling capacity, and the other two spots on the hotend can go unused.
This is what it looks like with only one nozzle in;
Ooh, ooh, what do I win for guessing right?Generic Default wrote:-
You got it with the nozzle coating! Both the nozzle and thermal isolator are coated with Tungsten Disulphide (WS2), which is a big improvement. I consider this to be a novelty for 3d printer technology since nobody has done it yet.
1) No friction, no stick. Plastics don't stick to WS2 so the hotend can't jam during retractions. Retract jams are one of the main causes of PLA problems in all metal hotends. Thermal expansion doesn't cause jams either. I'm printing a PLA phone case right now, and previous prints haven't jammed even when running without a cooling fan.
2) No stick, no gunk. Plastics don't cling to WS2 coated nozzles so the exterior stays much cleaner. No crusty gunky build up, and nothing chunky gets wiped off in prints either.
3) Less force, less surface energy. It takes a little bit less force to push melted plastic through a WS2 coated nozzle compared to an uncoated nozzle. The flow characteristics are visibly different for some types of plastics because the melted plastic doesn't try to cling to the nozzle as it is extruded. It makes the top printed layer smoother. Stringing can be reduced, and small holes become less polygonal.
Jeeze, the way you guys are after him, you'd think there was a brass pole involved or something.McSlappy wrote:No no! Stand in line, I've been wanting to throw money at him for ages!!
I don't quite think that type of brass pole was what Gene had in mind!Generic Default wrote:Yes Geneb, there is a brass pole involved. And it's coated with tungsten disulphide for jam-free operation!
I was just testing out PLA printing for the last few days. ABS and nylon are usually no problem to print with in other all metal hotends, but PLA is a pain. Once I switched out the nozzle and thermal isolator for the WS2 coated ones, I could print PLA with no problems. I'm now testing prints without the heat sink cooling fan running. Finally, no more jams! Keep in mind that all of these improvements are transferable to other hotend designs as well. I think the Tri hotend is the best value and highest performing one, but I'll try to get these jam-free components into after market production for other hotends. I still gotta figure out how the patent will work into all of this. I don't want to be like those sleeeezy companies that monopolize and drive up the price. Hotend nozzles are marked up enough as-is.
Oh, I was referring to a stripper pole...I'm slightly off topic here. Something something something the hotend doesn't jam.don't quite think that type of brass pole was what Gene had in mind!
Thumbs-up. I'm guessing that since you're M6, the nozzles would probably transfer over the the e3d hotend well.Generic Default wrote:Keep in mind that all of these improvements are transferable to other hotend designs as well. I think the Tri hotend is the best value and highest performing one, but I'll try to get these jam-free components into after market production for other hotends. I still gotta figure out how the patent will work into all of this. I don't want to be like those sleeeezy companies that monopolize and drive up the price. Hotend nozzles are marked up enough as-is.
I haven't tried this myself, but have you seen http://www.repetier.com/dead-time-control/?Generic Default wrote:Oh, I was referring to a stripper pole...I'm slightly off topic here. Something something something the hotend doesn't jam.don't quite think that type of brass pole was what Gene had in mind! :)
By the way, I don't know if I mentioned this before, but it turns out that the thermistors can actually go well over 300 C. They degrade after a long time above 300C, but they don't fry. It helps with bad PIDs because if the PID isn't tuned right for a fast-response hotend like this, you can overshoot by 50 degrees easily. No damage done.
I still haven't nailed the PID for mine; I overshoot, them come down to temperature and maintain +- 0.5 degrees all day. I prefer stability over speed. Heatup time is around 2 minutes.