MECHANEIL'S RMAX 2ND EDITION BUILD

[mechaneil]

Reposting this on this thread...

Hello everyone.

Still in the process of assembling my Rostock Max 2nd Ed and have encountered some issues.

1. Installing the belt on one of the towers; (Z) and noticed that the belt is a bit twisted on the interior slot of the extrusion although
the belt sits correctly and flat on the top and bottom idler bearings as well as the stepper pulley. Even if I adjusted it to the right tension
it still a bit twisted. I wonder if the way the belt was packed made it to twist like that. Maybe it's better to pack the belt rolled flat rather
than have it in just in a bundle.

2. The V2 did away with the back bearing assembly on the cheapskate, the ones installed on the outer side. Can I also not install the outer bearing
assembly on my 2nd Ed, the cheapskate is aligned and snug on the t-slot extrusion towers already, no play and moving up and down smoothly.
Something like this - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LCHGMivJeE

3. Installing the clamp for the belt, the mounting screw gets in the way of the 2.0" endstop screw, that it's not parallel anymore to the extrusion towers.

Any advice will really be appreciated. Thanks guys.

[mechaneil]

Inching forward to completion. Installed the top mounted filament extruder, how do I route the wires for the extruder stepper motor from the top plate
going down to the electronic bay. I saw a post previously of someone using a tube to channel the wire from the top to bottom, but want to check if there's an easier and
logical way to do it. Thanks in advance for your help.

[Eaglezsoar]

Inching forward to completion. Installed the top mounted filament extruder, how do I route the wires for the extruder stepper motor from the top plate
going down to the electronic bay. I saw a post previously of someone using a tube to channel the wire from the top to bottom, but want to check if there's an easier and
logical way to do it. Thanks in advance for your help.

Do you have one of the uprights with an empty hole in the center, if so you could use that for the motor wires.
The only thing you do not want to do is to run the motor wires in close proximity to any of the the endstop wires.
If you do not have an empty hole in one of your uprights you are going to have to use an external tube or a dowel
as Gene points out in one of his assembly manuals. The wires would twist around the dowel like a vine climbing a tree.
I personally do not like the looks of the dowel approach but to each his own.

[mechaneil]

All three uprights have the endstop wires running down them. I might have to add a pvc tube to channel the wires down to the electronic bay.
Thanks for the input, will post pictures soon.

[Eaglezsoar]

All three uprights have the endstop wires running down them. I might have to add a pvc tube to channel the wires down to the electronic bay.
Thanks for the input, will post pictures soon.

The PVC tube will look okay and really works well. Mounting it can be a challenge but with a little thought it can be done.
Thanks for offering to share the pictures when you get it completed.

[geneb]

You need to re-read section 6 of the manual. At no point do I say to put one pair of end stop wires down the center of each tower.

g.

[PhoenixNZ]

As Gene said - I thought the end stop wires were all meant to be routed through the x-axis tower, then at the top they go over to the y and z towers.
IIRC the extruder stepper motor wires should be connected to the 22ga wires you routed through the y-axis tower?

This is from memory as I don't have the manual open in front of me at work.

[mechaneil]

CORRECTION: If you plan to make this modification, make sure that the tube diameter is small enough and far enough so as not to impede the movement of the effector/hot end assembly. It should be far enough that the hot end nozzle will be able to reach the edge of the build zone (white circle on the build plate). I have since reduced the tube diameter to 1/2".

Thanks guys for your replies. Went back to the build manual to see how the endstop wires should be routed, did not see any specific instruction saying they be paired and routed on one tower, might have missed or overlooked it. But anyway, having all the endstop wire routed on each tower, I proceeded and fitted a 1.0" pvc tube as a channel to route extruder wires coming from the top to the electronic bay.
I think I like this approach better because I would be able to route all the other wires down the same channel to the electronics bay.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a134/mechaneil/20140703_134416_zpszjsuenbg.jpg[/img][img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a134/mechaneil/20140703_134449_zpsuor6lglt.jpg[/img][img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a134/mechaneil/20140703_140200_zpskukavaj6.jpg[/img][img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a134/mechaneil/20140703_160740_zpsldojfogi.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a134/mechaneil/20140703_160748_zpsb809ddud.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a134/mechaneil/20140703_160758_zpsdd9ehesc.jpg[/img][img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a134/mechaneil/d4e64aed-ed2a-492c-9c67-789a70808c68_zpsd75b1128.jpg[/img]

[mechaneil]

Upgrading the stock hot end to a J-Head Mk V-B, with a threaded thermistor. Looking at the location of the existing thermistor hole on the hotend, drilling and tapping
to fit the m3 threads for the screw-on thermistor won't work. Any idea where I can drill and tap a new hole for the threaded thermistor. Appreciate your advice. Thanks.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a134/mechaneil/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/20140707_132926_zpstcovmblr.jpg[/img]

[Eaglezsoar]

Thanks guys for your replies. Went back to the build manual to see how the endstop wires should be routed, did not see any specific instruction saying they be paired and routed on one tower, might have missed or overlooked it. But anyway, having all the endstop wire routed on each tower, I proceeded and fitted a 1.0" pvc tube as a channel to route extruder wires coming from the top to the electronic bay.
I think I like this approach better because I would be able to route all the other wires down the same channel to the electronics bay.

Could you tell me what the black parts are that you used on the end of the 1" tube and where I may find them?

[mechaneil]

Thanks guys for your replies. Went back to the build manual to see how the endstop wires should be routed, did not see any specific instruction saying they be paired and routed on one tower, might have missed or overlooked it. But anyway, having all the endstop wire routed on each tower, I proceeded and fitted a 1.0" pvc tube as a channel to route extruder wires coming from the top to the electronic bay.
I think I like this approach better because I would be able to route all the other wires down the same channel to the electronics bay.

Could you tell me what the black parts are that you used on the end of the 1" tube and where I may find them?

Those are core plugs for plotter paper rolls. Kinkos, office depot or any reprographics shop usually has them on their paper rolls, you could probably ask and get them for free. Comes in different sizes, mostly 2" and 3" core. The ones I used were the 2" core.

http://www.tavco.net/Portals/63230/imag ... 20bond.jpg

[Tinyhead]

While I love the idea of the tube and it looks slick, did you keep it far enough away from the bed to allow the extruder nozzle get to the edge of the build zone and not have the arms/effector hit it? In that last picture it looks pretty close.

[mechaneil]

While I love the idea of the tube and it looks slick, did you keep it far enough away from the bed to allow the extruder nozzle get to the edge of the build zone and not have the arms/effector hit it? In that last picture it looks pretty close.

[img]http://www.giniesayles.com/homer-simpso ... oad-73.jpg[/img]
You're right, it will actually hit the tube when printing up to the edge of the build zone. I will have to reduce the diameter of the tube to maybe 1/2" instead. Thanks for catching that.

[Eaglezsoar]

While I love the idea of the tube and it looks slick, did you keep it far enough away from the bed to allow the extruder nozzle get to the edge of the build zone and not have the arms/effector hit it? In that last picture it looks pretty close.

[img]http://www.giniesayles.com/homer-simpso ... oad-73.jpg[/img]
You're right, it will actually hit the tube when printing up to the edge of the build zone. I will have to reduce the diameter of the tube to maybe 1/2" instead. Thanks for catching that.

It would be funny in one way, but it's not really funny when you see the size of the hole you made.
Hey, Geneb you could use that D'oh image instead of palms on forehead.

[mechaneil]

No worries since I can still keep the core plug using 1.0" x 1/2" PVC reducer that will hold 1/2" pvc tube.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-429-1 ... r-Coupling

[Eaglezsoar]

No worries since I can still keep the core plug using 1.0" x 1/2" PVC reducer that will hold 1/2" pvc tube.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-429-1 ... r-Coupling

Good idea! That should look fine.

[Polygonhell]

You need to be a bit careful with jhead copies, some of them do not hold to the specified dimensions for the nozzle, and can end up being useless.
There is at least one copy that doesn't even bother with a Teflon liner, and so is useless for PLA.

Obviously there are good copies out there, but personally I stick to the original and buy from hotends.com

[mechaneil]

Got the Rostock kit partially built from a guy off craigslist, which includes upgrades such as CF arms, led lights from tricklaser.
as well as j-head hotend from hotends.com. I believe it comes in two color, black and tan, I have the tan one.

Still figuring out how I can install the screw-on thermistor. Where is the best location to drill and tap a new hole?

[Polygonhell]

Got the Rostock kit partially built from a guy off craigslist, which includes upgrades such as CF arms, led lights from tricklaser.
as well as j-head hotend from hotends.com. I believe it comes in two color, black and tan, I have the tan one.

Still figuring out how I can install the screw-on thermistor. Where is the best location to drill and tap a new hole?

I guess there could have been a run of brown JHeads from Brian but I have 3 of them bought at various points and they are all black and I've never seen an option to buy in any other color on the website.
Just worth noting as a possible red flag if you do have extrusion issues.

I would drill and tap on the same face opposite side of the existing hole, there might not be enough brass to drill deep enough for the screw in thermistor without hitting the internal orifice. If there is you will need to drill very close to the edge, and be very careful how deep you drill. I still tape my thermistors in, I like the concept of the screw in thermistor, but there just isn't a lot of leeway on a jhead heater block.

[geneb]

Because of how the thermistor is mounted in the j-head heater block, a threaded thermistor really isn't needed. Once it's installed, there's no practical way for it to fall out.

g.