I figured I might as well get my introduction out of the way.
I run a small business doing repairs on pinball circuit boards, and also make some diagnostic tools and circuit boards for the same, and am looking to expand a bit into other areas.
But I need assembly jigs and things like that, so here I am. My head is full of ideas, I just need a printer! Looked at a lot, ordered a Rostok Max V2 just a couple days ago.
I started looking into 3D printing back in the early RepRap days. I didn't have time to commit to it then, and the hardware wasn't ready for what I wanted to do, so I stepped away for a while.
Things have finally matured to the point I am ready to jump in, so here I go. Looking at the assembly instructions, I can already see some modifications I want to do if they are feasible, but won't know for sure until the kit gets here.
-Hans
Greetings from South Dakota!
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Eaglezsoar
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 7159
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:26 pm
Re: Greetings from South Dakota!
Hi Hans and welcome to the forum!
We will help with any questions you may have but
with your background you may be answering questions as well!
Have a fun build!
We will help with any questions you may have but
with your background you may be answering questions as well!
Have a fun build!
“ Do Not Regret Growing Older. It is a Privilege Denied to Many. ”
Re: Greetings from South Dakota!
I'm definitely looking forward to my build, once it arrives. Three weeks is a long time to wait when you're as impatient as I am. At least it gives me time to get busy on e-bay to pay for the darn thing.
In the meantime I've been browsing some build logs, the instructions, and am already coming up with my list of custom tweaks that I want to incorporate into the build. But man, the one thing I would love is a good wiring schematic so that I can start planning out how to gut the power supply properly to clean up all the wiring. I also keep wondering if I could use something like a a Peter Chou power supply instead of digging through an ATX, just seems a waste to have so many un-used voltages floating around if apparently everything is either 12v or 5v .... but I won't know until I can get a proper schematic drawn, and I can't do that until I get everything in-hand.
In the meantime I've been browsing some build logs, the instructions, and am already coming up with my list of custom tweaks that I want to incorporate into the build. But man, the one thing I would love is a good wiring schematic so that I can start planning out how to gut the power supply properly to clean up all the wiring. I also keep wondering if I could use something like a a Peter Chou power supply instead of digging through an ATX, just seems a waste to have so many un-used voltages floating around if apparently everything is either 12v or 5v .... but I won't know until I can get a proper schematic drawn, and I can't do that until I get everything in-hand.
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nitewatchman
- Printmaster!
- Posts: 624
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2014 9:51 pm
- Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Re: Greetings from South Dakota!
I used a Corsair RM750 Modular Power Supply. This unit is over kill in the 12VDC Current section but it would allow for any future expansions including multiple extruders, etc.
Since the unit is modular there are no wires permanently attached to the back, everything plugs in. I disassembled the main ATX Cable to retrieve the green and black wire to take to the power switch (in black wire braid of course) and used one of the four wire 12VDC Power Plugs to supply the bed. These 12VDC wires were consolidated using a Wago five terminal latching splice block with one #14 pair wire running to the Rambo Controller. The other two Rambo inputs were fed using the cables normally used to power a device or disk drive. This gives a very clean area behind the Rambo card with no redundant or unnecessary wires and connectors.
Just be very careful and us a VOM since the wires are all black. Double check voltage and polarity before powering the P/S on.
This s a very robust P/S and they make smaller ones that would no doubt work. On my machine there is no voltage drop at the heated bed when everything is running full bore, voltage stays rock solid at 12.37VDC.
Mine P/S came from Amazon Prime, good price and free delivery, in my case next day since it came from nearby.
nitewatchman
Since the unit is modular there are no wires permanently attached to the back, everything plugs in. I disassembled the main ATX Cable to retrieve the green and black wire to take to the power switch (in black wire braid of course) and used one of the four wire 12VDC Power Plugs to supply the bed. These 12VDC wires were consolidated using a Wago five terminal latching splice block with one #14 pair wire running to the Rambo Controller. The other two Rambo inputs were fed using the cables normally used to power a device or disk drive. This gives a very clean area behind the Rambo card with no redundant or unnecessary wires and connectors.
Just be very careful and us a VOM since the wires are all black. Double check voltage and polarity before powering the P/S on.
This s a very robust P/S and they make smaller ones that would no doubt work. On my machine there is no voltage drop at the heated bed when everything is running full bore, voltage stays rock solid at 12.37VDC.
Mine P/S came from Amazon Prime, good price and free delivery, in my case next day since it came from nearby.
nitewatchman
Re: Greetings from South Dakota!
Yep, I actually have a full-modular supply in my PC right now. I also have another semi-modular (thermaltake?) unit as well that I'm not using, but it has a hard-wired ATX cable on it. Still easier than ripping out a full cable set. I just hate sloppy wiring, and excess wire.
-Hans
-Hans