E3D V4 All metal hotend

[Eaglezsoar]

Oh, sorry to hear that mate at least we get to enjoy your company while you sit in agony :/

I don't suppose Ohio is a 'green' state yet is it?

What do you mean by green?

[McSlappy]

Like Colorado or Washington which has legalized marijuana recreationally or say California which has done so for medicinal use.

For the painkilling properties.

I worked with a guy in Colorado who had lung cancer, they gave him some sort of medicinal derivative to kill pain and give him an appetite. He still wasn't hungry :/

[Eaglezsoar]

Like Colorado or Washington which has legalized marijuana recreationally or say California which has done so for medicinal use.

For the painkilling properties.

I worked with a guy in Colorado who had lung cancer, they gave him some sort of medicinal derivative to kill pain and give him an appetite. He still wasn't hungry :/

No, in Ohio any amount of marijuana, for any reason is illegal. Even though some of the States have passed these "green" laws, it is still illegal at the
Federal level so at any time you could be busted. Makes no sense. I've always thought they should legalize it and obtain new taxes from it.

[McSlappy]

Based on what I've read, I think Colorado has been rather excited by all the new taxes as a result of legalizing. I bet quite a few states will be following suit.

Oh well, it's not legal here either. Happily I'm not in pain, so it's not an issue, but I feel for you. Sorry

[Eaglezsoar]

Based on what I've read, I think Colorado has been rather excited by all the new taxes as a result of legalizing. I bet quite a few states will be following suit.

Oh well, it's not legal here either. Happily I'm not in pain, so it's not an issue, but I feel for you. Sorry

Thanks for caring, but I will survive.

[milosonator]

I'm attempting another print, a bit faster speeds this time. I feel that the heat is rising up and that is causing the jams. I need to find the sweetspot between too cold or too fast and get nozzle jams, or too hot or too slow and jam in the heatbreak..

[Eaglezsoar]

I'm attempting another print, a bit faster speeds this time. I feel that the heat is rising up and that is causing the jams. I need to find the sweetspot between too cold or too fast and get nozzle jams, or too hot or too slow and jam in the heatbreak..

It can be frustrating to find that sweetspot, good luck with it. Have you read Mhackney's writeup about shortening the borelength on the E3D nozzles?

[milosonator]

I'm attempting another print, a bit faster speeds this time. I feel that the heat is rising up and that is causing the jams. I need to find the sweetspot between too cold or too fast and get nozzle jams, or too hot or too slow and jam in the heatbreak..

It can be frustrating to find that sweetspot, good luck with it. Have you read Mhackney's writeup about shortening the borelength on the E3D nozzles?

Been there, done that, next please!

[Polygonhell]

Like Colorado or Washington which has legalized marijuana recreationally or say California which has done so for medicinal use.

For the painkilling properties.

I worked with a guy in Colorado who had lung cancer, they gave him some sort of medicinal derivative to kill pain and give him an appetite. He still wasn't hungry :/

No, in Ohio any amount of marijuana, for any reason is illegal. Even though some of the States have passed these "green" laws, it is still illegal at the
Federal level so at any time you could be busted. Makes no sense. I've always thought they should legalize it and obtain new taxes from it.

I think a lot of States are looking at what happens in Colorado and Washington, if those States actually make significant income from it, I think you'll see other States following suit.
It's not actually legally available in Washington yet, they recently assigned the first legal license to grow, probably the first state run stores will be open by the end of the year.

[milosonator]

On the topic: I've successfully managed to print a 8,5 hour print today. I've used a little bit of vaseline on the first 30 cm of the plastic to lube things up. The rest of the print happened I did not lube any more. I printed at 15mm/s, at 205 deg.

Vase

Bottom is a bit shaky, gotta sort that out.

[McSlappy]

A great feeling eh? Congrats on getting it to print!

I guess it depends on your plastic / thermistor, but I'm running my PLA at 175 -180. It jams at 160, but runs too much at 195. How low can you go with your setup?

[Tinyhead]

Welp. I took my nozzle length to just under 0.5mm. Set up the V5 to print and it jammed after about 3hrs. I'm pretty bummed. Cutting the length down like that definitely helped with the back pressure though as Brian mentioned. I was easily able to feed it by hand and at a lower temperature too.

Hopefully nothing happens to Eagle's V6. It sounds promising. I'd like to get one when the time comes. I got hardly any use out of my V5 because it's just so unreliable.

[Eaglezsoar]

Welp. I took my nozzle length to just under 0.5mm. Set up the V5 to print and it jammed after about 3hrs. I'm pretty bummed. Cutting the length down like that definitely helped with the back pressure though as Brian mentioned. I was easily able to feed it by hand and at a lower temperature too.

Hopefully nothing happens to Eagle's V6. It sounds promising. I'd like to get one when the time comes. I got hardly any use out of my V5 because it's just so unreliable.

I have had nothing but good results from the V6. I don't know what the long term results will be for the V6 but if the rest of them works as good as mine, the problems are over.

[DavidF]

I would like just to switch the heat break and nozzle and see how things work out. i know the new nozzle will interchange, but what about the heat break?

[PopolZ]

I would like just to switch the heat break and nozzle and see how things work out. i know the new nozzle will interchange, but what about the heat break?

From E3D

http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/v6-1.75-Heat-Break

Compatibility

This v6 HeatBreak is not compatible with it's v5 predecessor on the cold side (i.e. the heatsink).

[DavidF]

thanks, Looks like they increased the dia on the threads of the heat sink from m6 to m7 so they would have room to insert the bowden tube into it??

[elmoret]

thanks, Looks like they increased the dia on the threads of the heat sink from m6 to m7 so they would have room to insert the bowden tube into it??

Correct.

[wshelley]

Hi guys, been away for awhile due to a new job but finally had time to assemble and install a V5 over the holiday weekend. I deburred and polished the bore, drilled out the nozzle, torqued after heating to 300, etc. Put on a spool of translucent blue PLA and manually fed it in to a pre-heated head at 180c. Fed nice with only a little pressure required. Tried feeding under Repetier control at 100mm/s and it fed fine. Cued up a print job at 180c, prime and suck at 10, and off it went. First layer looked good and it printed nicely for about 25 minutes of a 38 minute print. At that point it was obviously stalling and grinding the filament (stock direct drive bowden on the original lower spool mount). Killed the job and manually retracted the filament which pulled out surprisingly easily. Tried a variety of options, head temp primarily. Walked away and gave it some thought.

Tonight I set the temp at 180 and played with retract distance. I was consistently able to start and extrude 28mm and retract 7mm, wait a minute or two and repeat. The theory was retracting far enough to pull the filament out of the hot zone would prevent a jam. Thinking I was in a good place I ran the print job again and it doesn't even make the first perimeter and jams. After killing the job I can easily retract the filament manually, there is the typical small length of slightly larger diameter filament at the end. I can then easily restart the filament by hand and repeat the 28mm/7mm sequence. Every time I start a print though it jams before going more than an inch of the first perimeter.

Any thoughts? My goal with getting the E3D was to be able to print PLA reliably and now I'm baffled.

Ward

[McSlappy]

Did you mean you have prime and suck set at 10mm? Mine is currently set to 1.89mm retract and 1.9mm prime at 15mms. For the PLA i'm using it's damn perfect with no obvious lift and landing points visible - 10mm seems like overkill if that's what you're talking about.

[mhackney]

Retracting that much is probably doing exactly the opposite of what you wanted. It is pulling the molen filament up into the heat break where it is cooling rapidly and plugging. Try 2mm of retraction at 25 mm/s. You should not need any more retraction than that. If you are still having problems with this retraction after drilling the bore of your nozzle, you have another problem somewhere. I would suggest pushing the filament through from the extruder to hot end by hand and feeling for snags. The PTC fittings are notorious. You might also check the cogged gear on the extruder. Mine was very aggressive and raising a big burr on the filament. This burr would snag in the PTC fittings and transitions inside the hot end.

[geneb]

Silly question - would a 2mm retract @ 25mm/sec be a good default for the stock hot end as well?

g.

[mhackney]

Most likely Gene. I discovered that fast retracts are not good with PLA. Moist likely because the melt is thixotropic (that's for you Eagle). So, 25 mm/s works quite well. 2 mm retraction should be more than plenty to withdraw. This would be a good starting point and then decrease retraction in .1mm increments to experiment if desired.

[geneb]

Ok, thanks.

g.

[milosonator]

Most likely Gene. I discovered that fast retracts are not good with PLA. Moist likely because the melt is thixotropic (that's for you Eagle). So, 25 mm/s works quite well. 2 mm retraction should be more than plenty to withdraw. This would be a good starting point and then decrease retraction in .1mm increments to experiment if desired.

For me 3mm seems not to be enough, can that be right for a reasonably long 3mm filament bowden setup?

BTW, what is thixotropic?

[mhackney]

We are taking exclusively 1.75mm setups here. Both the Rostock and Orion deltas come stock with 1.75. Was there a reason you switched to 3mm? I have no experience dialing in a 3mm setup but I don't know why it would take more retract, unless there is a lot more hysteresis in the 3mm Bowden.

Thixotropic, google it!