Calibration Help Needed. Any Advice Welcome

[kit]

Just got my RoStock MAX finished! I stared at the calibartion cube for 2 hours as it was printing. Its hypnotizing how this thing works. But now I need help to really perfect my prints.

Extruder- 200.00
Bed - 85.00
layer height - 0.2mm
1st layer height - 0.3mm
Fill density - 0.2
Infill every- 1 layer
Solid infill every - 0 layer

Here's some pictures.

Im thinking I have to fix the infill. And it seems like the worse warpping is between the Z and X axis so the Zheight somewhere there is probably off.

Any other advice??

[img]http://i.imgur.com/T9RlVwc.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/YsRu39o.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/ve07kEW.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/WE7QTpc.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/RuFUHnM.jpg[/img]

[626Pilot]

What are your nozzle diameter and extrusion width? The solid infill looks enormous, like there's a decimal that needs to be moved one place to the left.

[cope413]

2 hours to print the cube? Definitely post slicer settings. 40-45 minutes is all it should take, and it could be faster than that

[geneb]

I've done it in 10, but that's with the speed knob cranked up to "stupid".

g.

[cope413]

One man's stupid is another man's idea of entertainment.

[Flateric]

Judging by the rounding on all the corners I suspect your arms are binding.

[kit]

Here's the slicr info.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/V2bgwx4.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/vWGtKjP.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/U6MVHGd.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/osAG6lx.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/yK71w3g.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/Z6qqMus.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/8FMrZQg.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/Xy1MQpq.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/T5j945x.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/0gwZIm3.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/MLmBfRh.jpg[/img]

Also for some odd reason my 3d printed parts dont print the loops before starting on the actual print.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/XOBfu63.jpg[/img]


My bed takes about 25 minutes to heat to 95c. It moves at about .03 degrees very 30 seconds. And my extruder takes only about 5 minutes to get to temp. My sodlering wasnt the best of solders. Should i de-solder and re do it?? Is it taking this long for everyone's bed to heat up??
[img]http://i.imgur.com/vVMWnb1.jpg[/img]

And right now Im using double kapton tape. The prints stick really well and they come off really easily when finished but Im thinking thats causing some major warpping.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/IEO6qMu.jpg[/img]

[bubbasnow]

skirt height is = 0 layers, i think it should be 1 to get those circles around the object.

IF you want to keep heating your bed to 95c i used to place a towel over the bed until the print started.... now i use hairspray and 70c throughout the entire print. Directly on the glass.. no tape needed.

As for the cube itself, rounded corners and incomplete fills are usually linked to not enough sanding on the arms to achieve the proper movement. This is called the "Delta Arm Blues".... lots of posts and info on that subject.

the bit of plastic that drooped down from the overhang is typical of bridging without support material, you can enable support material, or increase the bridge speed in slic3r settings.

that should give you a few starting points

[626Pilot]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/8FMrZQg.jpg[/img]

According to the manual, you're supposed to put explicit values here. If you have the stock 0.5 nozzle, set everything here to 0.55 in the "Extrusion Width" section. I'll bet this is why your extrusion width is comically huge compared to your layer height. You might want to go through the manual and check on anything you mentally "saved for later/never." There are a lot of things that can go wrong that won't if you follow the instructions TO THE LETTER.

I also notice you have your first layer temp at 230 and the rest at 200. I don't know of any filament that will respond well to that. PLA and ABS both have heat ranges that will make your life difficult if you try that.

If you want to use Kapton, I recommend buying the stuff in 3" thick rolls. To install, wet down the bed with a paper towel with soapy water and immediately lay down the tape. Use a credit card at an angle to gently chase any soap/air bubbles out from underneath. Wet down the bed again before you do the next strip. You'll find the soapy water lets you position the tape very easily, allowing you to line it up almost seamlessly. I also tried laying it down dry... LOL. Losing battle. Soapy water makes it super easy.

I stopped using Kapton in favor of Elemer's school glue sticks. You can get a year+ supply for $12 here at Amazon, which is less than what you'll pay for Kapton. I do like Kapton a lot for how easy it is to remove prints, but over time it tends to get gouged from various things, and it isn't grippy enough for objects that want to peel up at the edge unless you use more adhesive... at which point, why bother.

[kit]

Cope413 - I put the flowrate of the print at 50 so thats maybe why it took about 2 hours. But this recent print i did I changed the flow rate to 80 and it still about an hour and 40 minutes.

Flateric - My arms are binding?? I have the tricklaser arms with the slop resistant bands. Would I still have a problem with binding with these arms??

Bubbasnow - I HAVE LOOPS!! It was the skirt height. I changed it to 1 and there they were. It was weird because I kept trying to change it to 1 and then when i hit the floppy disk to save it saves but it changes the 1 back to 0. It happens sometimes when I change certain numbers in other fields too. In the end I had to delete the entire thing and fill in everything again until it saved correctly.
I've heard of these dreaded delta arm blues so i bought the tricklaser arms WITH my rostock shipment. I was reading about how people were pulling out their hair so I ordered them in order to keep my long golden locks.
I checked off the support material and it printed nicely but i think they are too thick. In the images below I cant even pull them out. I checked the "generate support material" and then set it at 0 degrees. Should it be at 45 degrees instead??

626pilot- I was wondering WHY the rostock would heat to 230c and then drop to 200c after a while! I had no clue why. But now i see what i did wrong. And I used hairspray this time around it works like a CHARM! And the print gives off a nice floral smell while it prints.

Here's the new images of my recent cube.
Ive changed everything back to the default settings of the Rostock MAx Assembly guide. (Thanks gene)
Re-calibrated my Z height
And Ive made the changes based on the advice given to me by you beautiful people.
I've also replaced my 2 layers of kapton tape with hairspray.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/34YKMnc.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/vBfCVXM.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/tM8lfRA.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/z8yqnAH.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/OfmHrZO.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/LnREXd8.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/XpcBLDN.jpg[/img]

Im going to try to print the cube again without the "bridge generator" and just decrease the bridge flow rate. The supports are too thick and I cant even remove them.

[cope413]

Hopefully you're just using the wrong word, but flow rate fits not affect the speed. Flow rate changes the amount of filament being extruded. Feed rate is what adjusts your speed.

[kit]

Sorry bout that, I was using the incorrect word.

In my last print the Feedrate was set to 80 and Flowrate was 100

[kit]

So I've printed 10 of these z-calibration test and there seems to be no improvement. All of them are printed in the center of the glass plate.
Before printing out the next Z-calib i tweeked the filament diameter and extrusion widths to test which would be the best. I thought that at one point Id finally get a perfect print.
I've tried differnt temperatures for the extruder and bed as well.

My question has to do with #9 and #10

I printed out the just the first layer of #9 and it came out perfectly. But when i did the print again without changing anything the infill wasnt correct. And then i tried the same for #10 and had different errors.

I know what the delta arm blues are but I have the tricklaser arms. I always thought that the D.R.B had to to with the friction of the arms due to improper sanding.

Does anyone know why I cant infill correctly? Any advice?

[img]http://i.imgur.com/dkQ7Gq2.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/Yq4crxw.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/SlECBXm.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/K9jj3vO.jpg[/img]