Dan's Rostock Max

[geneb]

Tiny squares of Kapton tape over the vias in the Onyx would have done the same job.

g.

[dbarrans]

For the short term, yes. For the longer term, maybe not. There's vibration and differential heat expansion to worry about. Combined with microscopic variations in the aluminum surface, I theorize this could wear through what little protection is there.

I wasn't comfortable having only a layer of sealer between the traces on the Onyx and a chunk of aluminum, so I put tape on the whole thing for an extra layer of protection. Besides, I have a roll of tape I'm not using for anything after learning about using hairspray.

- dan

[dbarrans]

I got the EZStruder installed Friday evening, but haven't had a chance to play with it until this evening. It's certainly quieter than the old one; the stepper is only stepping abou 16% as fast. I came up with 46.74 steps/mm, for my RAMBo 1.0.

- dan

[foshon]

I got the EZStruder installed Friday evening, but haven't had a chance to play with it until this evening. It's certainly quieter than the old one; the stepper is only stepping abou 16% as fast. I came up with 46.74 steps/mm, for my RAMBo 1.0.

- dan

1/8th microstepping? Just curious, I use 1/16th and mine is just about double that at 92.68.

[dbarrans]

Yes, RAMBo 1.0 uses 1/8 microstepping.

- dan

[foshon]

Yes, RAMBo 1.0 uses 1/8 microstepping.

- dan

Just glad they are close then.

[dbarrans]

Last week, I took the opportunity to use NextFab's laser cutter to cut a new Tricklaser-designed overhead filament holder and EZStruder mount. The local HD didn't have melamine, but they had 1/4" MDF and I figured these aren't critical dimensional items so I figured I'd give it a shot.

Thanks to Brian for the design. I like not having that stuff hanging off the side.

- dan

[dbarrans]

Of course, then I needed to run the extruder wiring up to the top. So I got a piece of plastic tubing, and made holes for it where the side-mount extruder used to be. I took a couple leftover pieces from the laser cuttings, drilled holes matching the ID of the wiring conduit, and used them as retainers.

Yeah, I know the melamine chipped a bit; it doesn't like forstner bits, not even with a block of wood on the back side of the hole while drilling. At least my countersunk screw holes are clean.

- dan

[dbarrans]

And here it is back together again.

- dan

[JohnStack]

Cool! I wasn't going to take on top mounting until I had a cable solution. Without using something other than T-slot, I think you came up with the only other thing that would work.

That tube also leaves enough room to run wires for....

[dbarrans]

The tube I used has an ID of 1/2", just enough room to allow the 4-pin extruder connector to pass. You could also use some PVC electrical conduit or plumbing pipe, but that's a bit larger, and I wanted to use the smallest tubing that fit. It cost me about $7 + shipping vs. $1.58 + driving to the store.

- dan

[Eaglezsoar]

That tube actually looks pretty good on there. I hope you don't mine me stealing your idea.

[dbarrans]

That's why I posted it.

- dan

[dbarrans]

BTW, the tubing came from McMaster-Carr (of course). p/n 1839T371.

- dan

[Eaglezsoar]

Dan, I noticed that you are using one of those 12v 30A power supplies.
You have it sitting on some bent metal brackets and I was wondering if
the brackets are homemade or something that can be purchased.

[dbarrans]

They're homemade (well, shopmade) with a shear and a sheet metal brake. I haven't fully worked out the design yet or I'd have posted more about them. I want them easy to anchor and remove because the power supply blocks access to the stepper mounting screws.

- dan

[Eaglezsoar]

They're homemade (well, shopmade) with a shear and a sheet metal brake. I haven't fully worked out the design yet or I'd have posted more about them. I want them easy to anchor and remove because the power supply blocks access to the stepper mounting screws.

- dan

Thanks Dan.