Hello everyone!
Nice friendly place you guys have here!
I have been looking at the RoStock Max for a bit of time now, but I'd like to know a few things before I buy. This will be my first 3D printer, I know a lot of people say the RoStock is a good challenge so I think I'll give it a try. I'm a Biomedical Engineer who has a bit of experience with electronics and mechanical stuff, enough to get myself into trouble.
A few questions:
- I see a lot of people modifying their printers(different arms, 3mm hot end, different extruder), should I start with the base printer first and then look for upgrades? Or should I purchase them along with the printer?
- I've read that the 3mm hot end and 3mm filament really helps with retraction and less stringing, is this true and would you recommend that upgrade? I was looking at this hot end.
- How accurate/detailed can prints be? I've seen pictures of the Ultimaker print in 20µm layers and the Printrbot print pretty small objects (also with small nozzle), and I was wondering if the RoStock can have similar levels of performance, with lots of tuning and careful assembly. It's unlikely that I'll print that small, but I was wondering if it can.
- How durable is the printer? Assuming it is decently build, how long could would the printer last before something needs to replaced? Or is it more likely that I'll replace something before it breaks to try to get X,Y, or Z?
- If I use the heated bed a lot, would it be good to have an Aluminum heat spread for an even surface temperature? Do I need the layer of glass before putting on tape?
Thank you for your time and for reading my questions!
- X
New to the party!
Re: New to the party!
Nice friendly place you guys have here!
<thanks!
A few questions:
- I see a lot of people modifying their printers(different arms, 3mm hot end, different extruder), should I start with the base printer first and then look for upgrades? Or should I purchase them along with the printer?
<Rule #1 Start simply. A base understanding will take you a long way. You'll be modding soon enough - as soon as you know what you want to mod.
- I've read that the 3mm hot end and 3mm filament really helps with retraction and less stringing, is this true and would you recommend that upgrade? I was looking at this hot end.
<1.75 is the filament of choice for Rostock - and where you'll find the most information about in terms of printer settings, etc. Going back to #1....
- How accurate/detailed can prints be? I've seen pictures of the Ultimaker print in 20µm layers and the Printrbot print pretty small objects (also with small nozzle), and I was wondering if the RoStock can have similar levels of performance, with lots of tuning and careful assembly. It's unlikely that I'll print that small, but I was wondering if it can.
<I'll put my ABS prints up against any printer that says it can print ABS. Smaller nozzle sizes will give you better prints as well. 1mm is better than 2mm...
- How durable is the printer? Assuming it is decently build, how long could would the printer last before something needs to replaced? Or is it more likely that I'll replace something before it breaks to try to get X,Y, or Z?
<Until I made a mistake, all I was doing was tightening up things between prints. Nothing more. Within reason, the belts don't wear and they definitely don't stretch. You will break something. When that happens, who knows. I think I was about 40 prints into this when I made a config change and killed things...I broke #1.
- If I use the heated bed a lot, would it be good to have an Aluminum heat spread for an even surface temperature? Do I need the layer of glass before putting on tape?
< Most use borosilicate glass and are split between painters tape or ABS Juice. (See my blog post). Kapton tape is expensive. Aluminum sucks lots of heat out of the Onyz - for no appreciable gain. In fact, I've seen posts about damaging the Onyx or the Rambo board when using aluminum. You'll be happy with the glass/sticking methods.
Thank you for your time and for reading my questions!
<Get one! Dive in! Have fun!!!
<thanks!
A few questions:
- I see a lot of people modifying their printers(different arms, 3mm hot end, different extruder), should I start with the base printer first and then look for upgrades? Or should I purchase them along with the printer?
<Rule #1 Start simply. A base understanding will take you a long way. You'll be modding soon enough - as soon as you know what you want to mod.
- I've read that the 3mm hot end and 3mm filament really helps with retraction and less stringing, is this true and would you recommend that upgrade? I was looking at this hot end.
<1.75 is the filament of choice for Rostock - and where you'll find the most information about in terms of printer settings, etc. Going back to #1....
- How accurate/detailed can prints be? I've seen pictures of the Ultimaker print in 20µm layers and the Printrbot print pretty small objects (also with small nozzle), and I was wondering if the RoStock can have similar levels of performance, with lots of tuning and careful assembly. It's unlikely that I'll print that small, but I was wondering if it can.
<I'll put my ABS prints up against any printer that says it can print ABS. Smaller nozzle sizes will give you better prints as well. 1mm is better than 2mm...
- How durable is the printer? Assuming it is decently build, how long could would the printer last before something needs to replaced? Or is it more likely that I'll replace something before it breaks to try to get X,Y, or Z?
<Until I made a mistake, all I was doing was tightening up things between prints. Nothing more. Within reason, the belts don't wear and they definitely don't stretch. You will break something. When that happens, who knows. I think I was about 40 prints into this when I made a config change and killed things...I broke #1.
- If I use the heated bed a lot, would it be good to have an Aluminum heat spread for an even surface temperature? Do I need the layer of glass before putting on tape?
< Most use borosilicate glass and are split between painters tape or ABS Juice. (See my blog post). Kapton tape is expensive. Aluminum sucks lots of heat out of the Onyz - for no appreciable gain. In fact, I've seen posts about damaging the Onyx or the Rambo board when using aluminum. You'll be happy with the glass/sticking methods.
Thank you for your time and for reading my questions!
<Get one! Dive in! Have fun!!!
Technologist, Maker, Willing to question conventional logic
http://dropc.am/p/KhiI1a
http://dropc.am/p/KhiI1a
Re: New to the party!
i would definitely recommend the tricklaser.com carbon fiber arm upgrade. that will save you a whole lot of sanding fun. (sarcastic)
expect to replace belts, so buy extras to keep handy
spend some time on the forum reading build logs and searching. you'll find a lot of answers to your questions.
expect to replace belts, so buy extras to keep handy
spend some time on the forum reading build logs and searching. you'll find a lot of answers to your questions.
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
Re: New to the party!
Thank for the tips!
I was looking at the tricklaser carbon fiber arms, dutifully noted.
I was looking at the tricklaser carbon fiber arms, dutifully noted.