RostockMAX V3 to Duet WiFi conversion instructions

[DerStig]

HOLY SHIT!!!!

It PRINTS and it prints damn well!!!!!


Thank you gentlemen for your help. It tool me awhile but I finally got it

[crocky]

HOLY SHIT!!!!

It PRINTS and it prints damn well!!!!!


Thank you gentlemen for your help. It tool me awhile but I finally got it

Good.....

[memphisstylee]

DerStig, did you ever figure out what was causing it to skip across the bed? Mines doing the exact same thing and I cant figure it out for the life of me. Running duet wifi with mhackney's YAAA in the 4 pin z probe. Ive tried everything listed in this thread and other buts to no avail. Ive made sure the M558 was set to p5 and ive used F value's all the way from 1200 to 6000 and they all give the same result. I also repeated various m558 F settings with an increased sensitivity of 30 on the trinket but it still skipped. Maybe someone can see something im missing...

**EDIT/Update 12:30a
Think I might have it solved. Did what kraegar suggested and commented out the following:

#define RESET_BEFORE_PROBE 1

and suddenly im able to probe at sensitivity 20 with M558 F1200. Hopefully im not speaking too soon.

[memphisstylee]

Just a follow up to my last post. Tweaked a few things and now mine is working great! Other than whats listed below, I followed everything to a T from mhackneys conversion and YAAA threads.

What I changed:
-commented out "#define RESET_BEFORE_PROBE 1"
-lowered sensitivity to 18(I dont know why but 20 would cause skipping, maybe someone can explain it to me?)
-M558 H13 F1400

A pic of my heatmap after probing:

[mhackney]

The sensitivity setting is very sensitive!

[memphisstylee]

Random followup to my last post. I had to up the m558 F to F2000 to get probing working reliably. But the main purpose for this post was that I had been unable to get my layer fans to turn on since I did the duet conversion. Finally got a chance to sit down to trouble shoot it this morning and discovered that despite following your instructions on your blog, the pinout for the layer fan was different. In your instructions, you said connect the orange layer fan wire to fan0 positive but that wouldn't turn my fans on. So I referenced the stock he280 pinout(linked below) and as soon as I put my orange layer fan wire to fan0 negative the fans fired right up. Not sure if there is more than one version out there but this had been bothering me all week haha
https://dozuki-documents.s3.amazonaws.c ... wO4rG6.pdf

[LAGR]

So I'm also having a few issues and I was wondering if anyone has any ideas.

I'm getting the issue where my probe will skip across the bed because it's not triggering consistently. I've tried sensitivity settings between 5 and 70 and messed with the f value (speed on the probe movement if I understand correctly?). I've also tried commenting out RESET_BEFORE_PROBE 1. The weird thing is nots not that probe board never triggers, it's that it triggers really inconsistently. It'll probe certain points fine but on others it'll just hit and skip across the glass and the points it messes up on aren't consistent.

I'm running an e3d v6 on the tricklaser aluminum effector and hotend mount with the tricklaser probe board mount. My probe board is stood off of the the tricklaser mount with some nylon spacers I had lying around.

Let me known if there's any more information I can give I usually forget something, Thanks

[mhackney]

I finally gave up and converted my V3 to FSR probing. As much as I worked (and I'm talking 100s of hours) I could not get to the SAME level of reliability as I get with FSRs. That's not to say accelerometer probing doesn't work, it just isn't as robust as I experience with FSRs and since I am printing on multiple machines for 6+ hrs a day, I need rock solid reliability.

[LAGR]

It might be time to admit that I just burned the $30 and switch to FSRs, I'm so done trying to troubleshoot this. Any chance you did a write up as good as this one for FSRs on a duet?

[mhackney]

Yes, a year ago:
https://sublimelayers.blogspot.com/2016 ... -duet.html

and a mounting system for the V3:
https://sublimelayers.blogspot.com/2017 ... ystem.html

[LAGR]

Thank you for continually saving my ass

[djarmag]

Random followup to my last post. I had to up the m558 F to F2000 to get probing working reliably. But the main purpose for this post was that I had been unable to get my layer fans to turn on since I did the duet conversion. Finally got a chance to sit down to trouble shoot it this morning and discovered that despite following your instructions on your blog, the pinout for the layer fan was different. In your instructions, you said connect the orange layer fan wire to fan0 positive but that wouldn't turn my fans on. So I referenced the stock he280 pinout(linked below) and as soon as I put my orange layer fan wire to fan0 negative the fans fired right up. Not sure if there is more than one version out there but this had been bothering me all week haha
https://dozuki-documents.s3.amazonaws.c ... wO4rG6.pdf

I can confirm this is as well, cooling fan was not turning on at all and manual controls weren't working. Swapped to the FAN0- pin and worked.

[mhackney]

Ok, I checked all my photos archive and I have that orange wore on + in every photo. I'm sure the fans worked but the schematics say it shouldn't so maybe I had an elderly moment. Most of the photos were taken on the same day.

I've since completely redone the wiring so I can't compare.

[mhackney]

Got lucky, right on my blog post two photos down it shows that orange wire connected to the negative terminal! I've added a note to correct the post. Thanks guys.

[thingismith]

Thank you mhackney, I'm about ready to jump in! But before I do, I have one Q...

Atm I have the original setup with Octoprint on raspi3. Instead of a Paneldue, I'm thinking I'll keep the pi and get a touchscreen using 626pilots instructions http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10693.

But I really like being able to print from an sd card and there's no place on the pi to have 2 sd cards (1 for the octoprint OS, 1 for the gcode). Does the Paneldue have someplace to accept the sd card with the gcode?

[dc42]

Thank you mhackney, I'm about ready to jump in! But before I do, I have one Q...
But I really like being able to print from an sd card and there's no place on the pi to have 2 sd cards (1 for the octoprint OS, 1 for the gcode). Does the Paneldue have someplace to accept the sd card with the gcode?

Usual procedure with the Duet is to upload the file to the on-board SD card over the built-in web interface, and then print from SD card. There is an "Upload & Print" button in the web interface to make this even easier. However, the TFT panels that PanelDue works with all have SD card sockets, so the firmware now allows you to print from that SD card too. You need to add an extra ribbon cable between the PanelDue and the Duet, and it restricts the distance between the two to about 400mm.

[mhackney]

Thanks David.

The info on using the PanelDue SD card is here.

[thingismith]

That link you provided mentions that it's preferable to use the on-board socket on the duet...can I move the sd card between my computer and that socket, or is that sd card meant to hold the firmware and can't be removed?

I'm so interested in transferring the card physically because I found that it would take 10x longer to upload my gcode to the printer on my original build.

[IMBoring25]

I wouldn't assume you'll have to sneakernet until you've tried the Duet the normal way. I still have the Rambo in my Rostock and even without the Pi SD writing was agonizing (when it worked). I, too, have resorted to the sneakernet on the Rostock. Uploading over the Duet web interface on my Mendel is a completely different animal.

I don't personally know if the Duet supports dismounting the SD card after it has booted using the config files found on it, but you certainly could take it out and manually load files to it with the printer off. That said, I'm fairly sure that once you've tried it the right way you won't want to.