Anyone have a suggestion on what I need to adjust based on the attached photo. I have lots of zits and seems like it's stepping odd. This is my first print with this printer.
Was printing with PETG in simplify 3D. Also wondering if any one has a good FFF settings for PETG they could share.
Rough print
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littlecatlabs
- Plasticator
- Posts: 15
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2014 10:37 pm
Re: Rough print
Run calibration studies by changing one variable at a time. It's always tempting to change a few at a time but don't cave - it's not real science unless you are only altering one variable. Print small parts to save time; run a search for "calibration" on thingiverse and you'll get lots of good ideas. I would probably go about optimizing in the following order:
- SPEED: Turn it way down, think like 20-30mm/s. You can slowly crank it back up later when you've optimized other things.
- Hot end temperature: change it in increments of 5 - 10 deg. C and see if you can identify a good operating zone. Too high and you get a lot of zits and strings and sometimes bubbles; too low and your extruder motor starts to skip and your surface finish gets dull.
- Flowrate: rough outlines like that often come from having your flowrate a little too high. Gaps often result when it's too low. Change it in increments of .1, and then refine in increments of .05 or even .01 until you hit gold.
- Cooling: try to keep it as low as you can to avoid warping due to cold spots, but high enough to avoid melt-collapse on thin walls and bridges.
- Retraction: try 2mm at 25mm/s; should help your zits.
S3D has a great feature where you can automatically update settings after a specified number of layers (it's under advanced options I think). This is really useful for calibration because you can print e.g. a tall skinny column and, for example, have it up the flowrate by a factor of .05 every 20 layers, or have it change the temperature by 5 degrees, etc.
Quality 3D printing requires you (or someone upstream of you) to methodically optimize a ton of different variables, both mechanical and software-related. Best approach is patience and specificity: it's tempting to frantically try like 100 different random slicer setting combos in the hope that something will work out quickly, but in reality you'll probably end up wasting a lot of time without learning much. If you study each setting systematically in close detail, eventually you will have a very intimate knowledge of your printer's behavior and you should be able to get WAY better prints than the one you posted (and calibrate your next printer a lot more quickly). Good luck!
- SPEED: Turn it way down, think like 20-30mm/s. You can slowly crank it back up later when you've optimized other things.
- Hot end temperature: change it in increments of 5 - 10 deg. C and see if you can identify a good operating zone. Too high and you get a lot of zits and strings and sometimes bubbles; too low and your extruder motor starts to skip and your surface finish gets dull.
- Flowrate: rough outlines like that often come from having your flowrate a little too high. Gaps often result when it's too low. Change it in increments of .1, and then refine in increments of .05 or even .01 until you hit gold.
- Cooling: try to keep it as low as you can to avoid warping due to cold spots, but high enough to avoid melt-collapse on thin walls and bridges.
- Retraction: try 2mm at 25mm/s; should help your zits.
S3D has a great feature where you can automatically update settings after a specified number of layers (it's under advanced options I think). This is really useful for calibration because you can print e.g. a tall skinny column and, for example, have it up the flowrate by a factor of .05 every 20 layers, or have it change the temperature by 5 degrees, etc.
Quality 3D printing requires you (or someone upstream of you) to methodically optimize a ton of different variables, both mechanical and software-related. Best approach is patience and specificity: it's tempting to frantically try like 100 different random slicer setting combos in the hope that something will work out quickly, but in reality you'll probably end up wasting a lot of time without learning much. If you study each setting systematically in close detail, eventually you will have a very intimate knowledge of your printer's behavior and you should be able to get WAY better prints than the one you posted (and calibrate your next printer a lot more quickly). Good luck!
Re: Rough print
Thanks Littlecatlabs. This very encouraging. Going to take this step by step.
Im trying to start off by doing an Extruder calibration and found that when I ask it to push 100MM of filament it is only pushing around 93. I tried to ask Simplify3D to run a M503 to see what my current stepper motor settings are and it keeps telling me "Unknown Command"? Anyone know why?
Im trying to start off by doing an Extruder calibration and found that when I ask it to push 100MM of filament it is only pushing around 93. I tried to ask Simplify3D to run a M503 to see what my current stepper motor settings are and it keeps telling me "Unknown Command"? Anyone know why?
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Xenocrates
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 1561
- Joined: Wed Sep 23, 2015 2:55 pm
Re: Rough print
Because M503 is not supported in repetier, would be the main reason. I would guess that the only practical way to get that from Repetier is to check the firmware before compiling it. I don't think that the digi-pot value used to set the current is stored in the EEPROM.TKCC71 wrote:Thanks Littlecatlabs. This very encouraging. Going to take this step by step.
Im trying to start off by doing an Extruder calibration and found that when I ask it to push 100MM of filament it is only pushing around 93. I tried to ask Simplify3D to run a M503 to see what my current stepper motor settings are and it keeps telling me "Unknown Command"? Anyone know why?
Machines:
Rostock Max V2, Duet .8.5, PT100 enabled E3D V6 and volcano, Raymond style enclosure
Automation Technology 60W laser cutter/engraver
1m X-carve router
Sic Transit Gloria Mundi
01-10011-11111100001
Rostock Max V2, Duet .8.5, PT100 enabled E3D V6 and volcano, Raymond style enclosure
Automation Technology 60W laser cutter/engraver
1m X-carve router
Sic Transit Gloria Mundi
01-10011-11111100001
Re: Rough print
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------Xenocrates wrote:Because M503 is not supported in repetier, would be the main reason. I would guess that the only practical way to get that from Repetier is to check the firmware before compiling it. I don't think that the digi-pot value used to set the current is stored in the EEPROM.TKCC71 wrote:Thanks Littlecatlabs. This very encouraging. Going to take this step by step.
Im trying to start off by doing an Extruder calibration and found that when I ask it to push 100MM of filament it is only pushing around 93. I tried to ask Simplify3D to run a M503 to see what my current stepper motor settings are and it keeps telling me "Unknown Command"? Anyone know why?
Well, I guess that explains it.
Thanks, Learned something new. However, I found exactly what I was looking for and updated the EEPROM for the stepper motor via the slicer software. I am now extruding perfectly. Figure I would share this Matterhacker tutorial on it for the forum. They actually give the procedures specifically for calibrating the extruder the Rostock Max. Wow what a difference.
https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/ ... r-extruder
Re: Rough print
In Repetier M205 is the gcode used to dump eeprom settings. M206 is used to set an eeprom setting. Documentation here: https://github.com/repetier/Repetier-Ho ... M-settings
Previous versions of Repetier used to support M503 as an alias for M205, but that's gone now.
Previous versions of Repetier used to support M503 as an alias for M205, but that's gone now.