Rostock Maxx in a new home

[Proto]

As many of you know, I recently purchased Cambo3d's Rostock Maxx V1. He has done a lot of upgrades and modifications which can be found here - http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228

I am starting this thread to document the rebuilding process, and hopefully any upgrades or modifications I may make in the future.


I want to thank Cambo for selling me this machine, and especially for the Absolutely EPIC job you did at packaging!

Now I know everyone wants Pictures... So here you go






Picture 2 BIG Brown Boxes and one White Mailing Tube.

[Eaglezsoar]

Congrats in receiving Cambo's old machine and creating a build log.
I am definitely interested in the log and pictures of the machine.

[bot]

Picture my foot in your ass... haha kidding kidding kidding. I had to go for a smartass reply. Congrats on the purchase. I bet you got a sweet deal. I'm excited for pictures.

[Proto]

Picture my foot in your ass... haha kidding kidding kidding. I had to go for a smartass reply.

Promises, Promises, Promises!

ok, seriously now. I started the un-boxing routine and found a bit of damage and floating parts, nothing to/too/tutu surprising though.

[img]http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Maxx/DSC_0228.JPG[/img] [img]http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Maxx/DSC_0229.JPG[/img] [img]http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Maxx/DSC_0230.JPG[/img] [img]http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Maxx/DSC_0231.JPG[/img]

I seem to remember Cambo stating the the LCD bracket was broken in his build thread. The Support was a minor surprise. Both are minor and easily replaced once I have the MAXX running. This actually gives me excuse to design and print a new LCD display housing.

more to come...

[Eaglezsoar]

All in all doesn't look to bad considering it went through shipping.
Thanks for the pictures.

[Proto]

I downloaded the V1 build manual which is turning out to be a godsend, at least at how things line up. So far I have the uprights mounted to the base.

right now I realize that the designer of the V1 is either an evil genius at building torture devices, or just didn't think about accessing the mounting screws for the uprights when he/she put in the doors.

[img]http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Maxx/DSC_0232.JPG[/img]

I'm at a sort of a stand still. I'm missing 1 mounting screw for fastening the uprights to the top, a carpenter square to get the uprights aligned. Unfortunately, I loaned my car to a friend with an emergency so I have no transport to get to the hardware store. And I'm to much of a wimp to walk there in 30 degree weather.

When I can, maybe go to Harbor Freight to pick up a 6" digital calipers. Or try and find my old 4" digital caliper (the batteries probably long dead). Or use my 24" Digital Calipers (the batteries probably long dead also)


EDIT - DOH, the former machinist forgot that the on-hand machinist square maybe a bit more accurate than the carpenters version

[cambo3d]

I swear UPS f'in sucks.. Nothing was broken when i packaged it. Everything was working condition.

proto you have a pm..

From your photos.....looks like i have the spare parts from my original seemecnc rostock that should work. I'll ship them to you asap.... i'll send whatever I got. I dont need them anymore..

[Proto]

A productive day

As of right now she is mostly assembled. Preliminary Squaring accomplished. Belts run and connected.

[img]http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Maxx/DSC_0235.JPG[/img]

For tomorrow, Double check my squaring job, tension the belts, and do the wiring. Then I can fire her up for the first time (for me) and start the calibration process.


right now I'm tired, so I think I'm done for the night.

[Eaglezsoar]

She is looking good, great job so far.

[Proto]

Playing around with Solidworks before I start. The replacement LCD Panel bracket and standoffs. Now I need to finish everything up so I can print them out.

[img]http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Max ... 0Panel.JPG[/img]

[Eaglezsoar]

Playing around with Solidworks before I start. The replacement LCD Panel bracket and standoffs. Now I need to finish everything up so I can print them out.

[img]http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Max ... 0Panel.JPG[/img]

I would love the stl of those parts when you get them sized properly. That would look cool!

[Proto]

Ask and ye shall receive...

http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Max ... 0Panel.zip

I checked the dimensions and they are correct. Now, all of the black lettering is a .5mm cut. I planned to paint them to make them stand out.

The holes for mounting the LCD & the Front Panel are designed into the standoffs. but may need to be cleaned out a bit before assembling. One other thing, you may want to mirror the standoff to make a left/right part. I put cut outs on them to save material, but I only put them on 1 side to make it easier to print without supports.

[Eaglezsoar]

Ask and ye shall receive...

http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Max ... 0Panel.zip

I checked the dimensions and they are correct. Now, all of the black lettering is a .5mm cut. I planned to paint them to make them stand out.

The holes for mounting the LCD & the Front Panel are designed into the standoffs. but may need to be cleaned out a bit before assembling. One other thing, you may want to mirror the standoff to make a left/right part. I put cut outs on them to save material, but I only put them on 1 side to make it easier to print without supports.

Thank you for uploading the Lcd Cover and standoffs. If you get a chance, could the front panel be modded so as not to have the letters on it? I know I am being a PITA but that's the way I was born.
Thanks either way and Happy Holidays to you!

[Proto]

Here you go, fresh off the computer screen.

http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Max ... 0Blank.STL
&
http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Max ... %20LCD.STL

And on another note, I finally got the wiring done (It's ALIVE, Muhahahahaha) and I have started the calibration.

More pics will be coming as soon as I start squirting out parts

[Eaglezsoar]

Here you go, fresh off the computer screen.

http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Max ... 0Blank.STL
&
http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Max ... %20LCD.STL

And on another note, I finally got the wiring done (It's ALIVE, Muhahahahaha) and I have started the calibration.

More pics will be coming as soon as I start squirting out parts

Thank you so much for modding the files and sharing them again. That was fast!
I bet you were nervous plugging it in and once again when you turned on the switch, I know I was!

[Proto]

GAH

continuing the calibration. I started to do the calibration using the V2 SE assembly manual. Hmmm, the screens don't match. pull up the V1 manual.
{ ok, ok, I admit that I skipped over the part about updating the firmware... TWICE or more }

The V1 calibration process - as my brain saw it...

• Home all axises - ok
• measure from bed to nozzle - huh
• subtract something - ???
• touch off tip to bed and subtract something else - uhm
• Bend over backwards & stand on your head (ok, I was a bit overwelmed)

I thought this was going to be easy. I wonder if the new firmware is compatible with Cambo's modifications. let's check the forum.

Found the thread about the new firmware update... and the 9 Pages of Replies

I'm still trying to overcome the shock/confusion/hesitency and get this puppy running... I just don't want this thing to go BOOM

EDIT - Amazing what a clear head will make.

I got an email reply from Cambo stating my fear. That he has modified the firmware and the change "it would probably effect it". So I'm going to keep the existing firmware.

for some strange reason the V1 leveling instructions make a lot more sense now (read - clear head)

I'm noticing a shake in the Z-Tower Skate when I move the effector. I'm thinking I need to check the belt tensioning

[Proto]

Calibration - COMPLETE

And now for the first print... The infamous MaterControl Calibration Block

[img]http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Maxx/DSC_0239.JPG[/img]
[img]http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Maxx/DSC_0240.JPG[/img]
[img]http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Maxx/DSC_0241.JPG[/img]
[img]http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Maxx/DSC_0242.JPG[/img]
[img]http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Maxx/DSC_0243.JPG[/img]

Seems like I got a good fill, no de-lamination, and good dimensionally. .790" x .790" x .393" (20mm x 20mm x 9.98mm)

I may, in the near future, try and get the bed leveling a bit closer (it's currently out .08mm). but first I Must Play

EDIT - ok, I'm having a bit of trouble with adhesion to the bed on larger prints. I'm current using am Elmers Glue Stick because the masking tape I tried failed epically.
Material - ABS
Hot End - 228°c
Bed - 80°c

[Tinyhead]

Nice job on everything! Really good accuracy too.

[bot]

Try at least a 90 degree bed and slightly decreasing or increasing your horizontal radius (in eeprom settings) and see if that improves it. I change the horizontal radius setting .1mm at a time. That seems to give a noticeable change on the extreme perimeter that you can then adjust until the adhesion is equalized.

[Proto]

Ok, raising the Bed tempature helped, to a point.

What I am printing is a replica Thermal Detonator from Star Wars (I said I was having fun ). The part is basically 2 half sphere 2-5/8" dia. I'm printing them one at a time.

First Print - Bed at 80°c, Bare Glass with a coating of stick glue stuff. The part Printed good even though the center support broke free about the 50% mark
[img]http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Maxx/DSC_0244.JPG[/img]

Second Print - Blue Painters Tape & Bed at 90°c. This Print Broke free about the 80% mark. After 1-1/2ish hours
[img]http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Maxx/DSC_0001.JPG[/img]

Third Print - Blue Painters Tape, Glue Stick Stuff & Bed at 90°c. We'll see
[img]http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Maxx/DSC_0002.JPG[/img]

[BenTheRighteous]

Oh man, failing at 1.5 hours is early, you lucky dog!

Just wait until you print something that's tall and thin and pointed at the top, and the whole print is fine except for the top that's melty because you didn't have your minimum layer time set up correctly. Then you're throwing an otherwise perfect 10 hour print in the trash.

[bot]

Proto, I would think that piece doesn't need any support at all. Also, what's your first layer thickness? .3 is what I always use, even when the other layers are .07mm.

Haha Ben, I leaned that the hard way too. There is a cura plugin called flow thermostat that is a piece of brlliance. It makes every print so purty. Scales the temperature based on speed.

[cambo3d]

prints are looking good ...

[Proto]

Ben - So far my longest print has been 2.5 hours. The Thermal Detonator Hemi took about 2 hours to finish and it was depressing when I realized that it broke free. I figure that it was the lack of surface area connected to the bed.

Bot - your probably right on not needing supports in the center. I was looking to support some bridging around the edge and MaterControl added one in the center (you should of seen the elaborate supports Cura came up with, it would of made the Hemi virtually Solid). I'm going to look into that plugin, sooner or later I'm going to do a real tall print.

Cambo - Thankee Thankee, Your machine makes me look good

[Eaglezsoar]

Try Aquanet Hair spray in the purple can (unscented) and spray a light coat and raise the bed temperature to 90 or 100C for ABS.
Spray the Aquanet on the glass, no tape.
It has been documented a hundred times in these forums.