Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

I've not done a lot of ABS on the Artemis, but I've done a ton of it on my Max V3 with enclosure. I heat the bead to 110C for the first few layers, then drop to 100. Every once in a while (many prints), I clean the glass well, then apply a wet coat of Aqua-net purple. That's the "all weather, extra ...

Is the scraping sound at certain speeds gone now?

I double-checked the instructions to make sure I hadn't missed it, and there's no info on how to lubricate the rail and carriage system. I had the problem that after only a few hours of printing, my printer started chattering and producing very poor results. The Z tower was worst but all did it to ...

It looks like SeeMeCNC is planning a Paneldue option sometime. There is a punch-out in place for the wiring and a couple of pre-drilled mounting holes in the top plate. I bought a Paneldue 7i and used a slight mod of this case https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2799628 to install it. The mod is 1 ...

I've been printing at the "recommended" max speed of 100mm/S and had a terrible time getting layer shifts on larger items. I was also seeing the extruder popping back as well (not slipping but actually turning backwards) unless I ran the hot-end temp really high. That was very easy to trigger just ...

Here's my version. It's running rated speeds and sizes, limits layer times based on the performance of the cooling fans and pre-heats both the hot-end and the bed in parallel. Benchies come out very nice, especially considering the speeds and 0.25 layer height.

https://pastebin.com/cpjp7jqr

In the past, I normally use ABS for UV resistance and the ability to use solvent cement on the parts I make. Since the Artemis came with a roll of PLA, and I need to get my Simplify3D profile tuned, I've been printing 3DBenchies in PLA. The printer itself is really solid, precise and amazingly quiet ...

I tried your profile, but it was under-extruding (0.95) and the speeds are very low for the Artemis.
What made you choose the bed size you did? Are you going for max height?

Turns out it was still flakey. I ended up cutting the connector off and using a few of the spare pins to re-do it. There must have been a bad crimp in the factory-supplied set. It's now happily printing the pre-sliced benchy with the supplied neon green PLA and all looks good.

Gene was right. Intermittent connection on the X stepper motor. I had to disconnect and reconnect it a couple of times to get it solid. Perhaps there was some oxidation on the pins. Homing and calibration work fine now. This morning I was able to get that going and verify the bed heater and ...

I got my Artemis today and assembled it. I already have a Max3 which I built as well. There is an issue with the X tower. When I select "home" from the web interface, sometimes it works, and sometimes it moves the X carriage way down then back up. When it does work, the X carriage is about 3/4 of an ...

Ok, sold. I just ordered one.

Hello, I was a very early wait-list buyer of the Max V3. I use it a lot and did mods for 24V bed heating and an enclosure for ABS printing. I'm intrigued by the Artemis, but was disappointed that it still uses a standard bowden extruder design. Since Artemis has been out about a month now, I keep ...

It probably depends which camera you're using. They may have widely different power consumption.

I don't know which onyx you have. The one which came with my Max V3 measures 0.91 ohms. You are probably getting some voltage drop across the FETs in the Rambo, but at 14.6 volts you'd be pushing over 16 amps through the Rambo FETs and fuse, which are only rated for 15A. I had my V3 set to around 14 ...

Check your power wiring.

To install that plugin on my rpi, I just went to the plugins page on the octoprint web interface and pointed it to the .zip file for the plugin. Five seconds later it was done. Doing it that way won't auto-install new versions but is quick and easy.

A raspberry Pi 3 is only about $35 and provides a much more elegant solution for talking to your printer from multiple hosts. Edit: It looks like you already have octoprint set up. In that case, perhaps you're trying to build and flash new firmware for the Max3. That's a pretty rare thing to do, but ...

Are you trying to cancel before the printer has reached the temp in the first place? This probably also depends on which slicer you're using and what G-Code prologue you have. I slice with S3D and once printing has started, cancelling definitely seems to cool things down. If you're having problems ...

Make sure the ambient temperature is above 18C or you'll get that message.
Make sure the connector on the hot-end is well seated.

My slim enclosure is here if you don't want one which sticks out on the sides:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1796438

You'll also need the linked fan shrouds which move the fans up out of the way.

Is there any illustration of the build area of a delta like this? I've tried googling it but I can't find it. English is not my first language like you guys probably have noticed so I might be searching for it with the wrong words or something ^^ Imagine 3 spheres, each with the radius equal to the ...

Make sure your hot end is not clogged. Take the nozzle and top retainer off and make certain it's open and clear. Then when you put it back together after installing the retaining clip on the bowden tube. Push the tube back down that 2.5mm or so. If you don't a blob will build up right at the bottom ...

It doesn't take that long to build and set up. It uses a larger nozzle by default so features will not be as fine unless you change nozzles. It will run a long time without maintenance once set up properly.. You don't need to re-calibrate unless you move it or something once it's up and running. I ...

It's just a guess, but, I think it's far more likely that you originally didn't push the bowden in further after installing the retaining clip on the hot end the first time. Then you could get melted plastic blocking the path and causing problems. When you reassembled things you probably got a ...