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Haven't tried it but I would think the reset button would stop the print. I could be wrong though.

I have had this happen. Seems like the material is hot and soft so when the hotend is building the layers it keeps going over the same spot and keeping the area hot. As it moves up the layers start to cool causing a high spot that will no longer be pushed out of the way as the hotend moves. Now the ...

Looks like the weight is making it jerky. Id like to see a faster print. But if it gets rid of the bowden I'd consider it.

Are these arms worth the coin?

What happened? You decide on something else?

Mine is about the same. I just took a scrap piece of filament and loosely looped it around. Works well looks like an after thought. When I have time ill just use a small bungee or something.

Well crap you beat me on the price. But I live in the peoples republic of California and mcmaster is in CA so I would have to pay tax and shipping. With prime it is a better option and you get two day shipping. Also I don't really like how mcmaster doesn't give you a shipping amount. I asked the ...

Bought four of these after one went out on me. They work great and are cheaper than anyone I could find. Best of all if you have prime the shipping is free. I ordered them last week and it said 1-2 months shipping, well they shipped two days ago. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004M8T2JG/ref=oh ...

Read through mhachneys build page it is explained there.

Sounds like you need to change your micro steps. Which rambo do you have and what firmware did you use.

Thanks that's what I thought.

When you manually increase the feedrate what does it change? Just the x y z speed? The extruder speed, both?

Abs glue made at home is best for me. Most of the time I can't get the part off. Started using blue tape the glue so the glass isn't a pain to clean.

My adjustment screws are coming off at very wonky angles and one is completely blocking the belt clamp screws and is being forced away from vertical by the belt clamp screw. Put the screws in from the bottom that should take care of that issue. Just remember when you adjust the skate height that ...

Any luck with the micro? I just had the PTF fitting fail on my printer. I'm getting a little tired of it. Sorry don't want take over this thread. Maybe we should move the answer to yours.

Mhackney,
What is the in the Fan hole that is attached to the platform? Looks like a wire to no where.

I found a place on the bed that had the least amount of bow. Used a straight edge and a feeler gage. Then I placed the glass on top and clipped it in two places on that line. Now with the straightedge on top of the glass it is pretty damn flat. I just let the other egdes of the glass hang out in ...

FYI I am currently contacting several waterjet vendors to see if I can get Mhackney's Onyx heat dissapator cut out of something more precise such as 1/4" thick MIC6 Cast Aluminum - Pricey, but flatness tolerance within 0.036. (If anyone is interested in one, send me a PM). Might try the ...

.036 is not very flat. I'll have to measure this plate but it's probably close to that. You want flat you need something thats been ground flat. I thin I'll stick with the raft until I find a better way to do it.

Is the hole for the grip threaded or does it use a nut on the backside? Im thinking that's why the cut out is there. That's a pretty fast print. Kiss with some wipe would take care of a lot of the blobs and strings. How much clean up is there? What do you mean Kiss with some wipe would fix the ...

Olympic arms and rock river both make a upper that doesn't use the buffer. Nice because a side folder ar is bad ass.

I can't see the bed moving the plate either. My plate seems bowed in the middle a little as well. Even without heating it. I didn't think about using a raft. Guess im going to have to it. I'm just pissed because it seems impossible to get the platform level to the bed because I can't get it leveled ...

I still can't get my bed leveled to my liking. Without the onyx the top of the base is bowed downward in the middle. Seems to be flat at the mounting points which is good. When the onyx is put on with the snowflake and spacers it is high in the center without the bed heated. So I made some springs ...

Is the hole for the grip threaded or does it use a nut on the backside? Im thinking that's why the cut out is there.
That's a pretty fast print. Kiss with some wipe would take care of a lot of the blobs and strings. How much clean up is there?

Looking good. How did it come out when it bridged the trigger gaurd? Or was the gaurd not printed? Also what was the overall print time?