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I found the issue. It was a very stiff Tricklaser ball joint on the skate side of the rod. It appears I accidentally got a tiny amount of thread lock on the ball joint when I put the thread lock on the outside nut that holds the arm on the axle. I replaced the Tricklaser arms with the stock plastics ...

BobH - firstly there really aren't any guides that I know of. Most of us that know this stuff are too selfish to share our knowledge :twisted: (you know I'm kidding!) There are just too many variables and it would require a lot of effort to document everything. Here's a good place to start and I ...

I haven't see anything better than a BerryBot at this point. That's what I would build if I had the time a tools.

Despite the fact that the 1st layer was acceptable, the 2nd layer still had similar roughness from the scraping of the nozzle as it passed the previous bead despite trying every setting I thought might help. So last night I removed the dampers, checked skate play & wheel friction, re-tensioned the ...

Michael, can I ask your opinion on these weird infill problems I'm having? IMG_2459.JPG I think it's first layer related, but I'm not sure. It's in the same spot, throughout the entire print, but only on the layers that travel parallel to the lines in the picture. On the layers that are ...

I use feeler gauges to set the nozzle height to .08, my first layer is set to .20, every layer after that is .23 .08 is pretty much the thickness of copier paper, which is where I started this journey. There are just too many variables to pin down on this machine! I'm ripping out the dampers ...

I lost count of the number of discs I've printed, lol. I can never get the 1st layer below a thickness of .4mm even though I lower & lower the z height through the lcd panel. Also, I've started printing a 2nd layer and it now has taken on the characteristics of the 1st bad layer - see my 1st pic. I ...

Eaglezsoar wrote:Looking a lot better! Have you calibrated your cold end extruder?

Calibrated, checked & double checked Still trying to tune. If I switch to the Cura engine, it goes back to it's old ways. So far matterslice seems to be the best behaved for a flat, one layer disc.

I do have dampers installed. I've considered removing them, but I was hoping to get a bit better at dialing in this 1st layer before throwing in the towel and removing them. I don't have a camera that is good at macro pics. I was able to get some good improvement. I started with raising the z zero ...

Thanks for the tips Guanu. raising the Z height helped somewhat. I actually raised it up .2 mm - until adhesion was starting to be impacted but, I'm still getting some of the similar roughness. The raised areas appear in the previous line of material after the new infill line travels past it. [img ...

[img]http://www.wetconcepts.com/Bad_1st_Layer_a.jpg[/img] I've been trying unsuccessfully to get a good first layer print. I'm using a flat, single layer disc from mhackney's Strategy for Successful Prints thread (http://forum.seemecnc.com/download/file.php?id=8475). I've used MatterControl ...

I thought about waving a white flag and seeing if a e3d mount might be available from some one. I should have a new peek insert by the weekend,so I think I can wait that long to get back at it.

Like the subject says, noob error. Started doing my tower calibrations with a heated hot end and bed today. I have a 40W ceramic cartridge instead of the resistors. For some reason the silicone tape I had wrapped around the hot end failed (split vertically), and pulled out the thermistor and the ...

Check to make sure the wires between the snowflake & the base aren't bundled up and pressing up on the back side of the Onyx plate.

If the Onyx plate is removed from the snow flake, is it still domed when unmounted?

The trick I've heard before is to loosen the screws, heat the bed, and press down on it with a known straight object like a level while you tighten the screws back up. I also suspect that some folks are fighting a wad of wires under the center of the bed, but obviously that would vary by case. No ...

I've asked SeeMeCNC to replace the warped/domed Onyx bed with a flat one. Thanks for your help in troubleshooting Tonkabot. Here are some answers to your questions: The glass bends to conform to the onyx curvature when clipped. Since the onyx is fastened to snowflake & base it doesn't have the ...

I could try and flatten the onyx in my oven using the glass plate as a reference surface. Any ideas on the glass transition temp for the onyx pcb without damaging it in the baking process? Shouldn't the onyx relatively flat already from the factory/SeeMeeCNC?

So if you remove the onyx and snowflake, you should be able to put in the towers square and tighten them up. Then when you put the snowflake and onyx in, do not over tighten. also You should have the glass on top of the onyx, and the glass is flat. I don't think anybody prints directly onto the ...

Update: If I remove the Onyx bed assy. and just square off the melamine base surface everything is fine. I'm investigating why the Onyx bed surface is so far out when it's mounted... The Onyx bed is convex or humped in the middle. On one edge there's at least a 3/16' gap from the center. Should I ...

Here's what I'm up against so far: the center line of the extrusion & the center line of t-nut bolt holes is off by quite a bit. More than I'm willing to hog out. I'll see if I can shim the base supports to get a decent angle. [img]http://www.wetconcepts.com/rostock/X_Tower.jpg[/img] [img]http://www ...

Thanks for input. If i did my Trig. right a 1/2 degree lean equates to about .25" over the length of 30". Better to fix it now. Thanks again! - Bob

I'm at the stage of squaring the towers to the bed in my new Rostock build. The problem I'm having is that all the towers are angled inward by about .5 deg using a digital angle gauge. If you get one tower perfectly square then the others are forced out of alignment even more. Is this "close enough ...

Do you have an idea of when the next batch will be available? I noticed you are now sold out on the last run. Thx - Bob

Version 2.43... http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax ... dition.pdf