Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Try applying a PVA solution or glue stick to a cold bed and dont heat it up so hot. Between 40-90 degrees C should hopefully be enough. Also, try adding a significant brim to the part to keep it stuck to the bed. If that doesnt work then go with the extreme solution of just squriting white school ...

Hmmmm. I tried the birch plywood last night, and again the nylon peeled itself off after the first few layers. It seems that Nylon has even more of a warp-tendency than ABS. I find that hard to believe, but there you go. I'll try the PVA solution on top of the plywood next (don't really want to put ...

I tried printing some nylon last night on my PEI bed. At 105 degrees bed and 240 nozzle, it stuck nicely. Until the second layer that is... Nylon looks to be a lot more fussy with regard to temperature than the other filaments I've tried. I have some R/C modelling birch plywood, it's really thin ...

whew, thanks polygonhell. Your tutorials are great by the way

Thanks Bvandy, that's quite dandy.

bot wrote:This one?

IMG_4006.JPG

If so, it's mine. What you like to know? If not, sorry, carry on.

Well now that you mention it I do have some questions for you about the misumi linear rails. Which size EXACTLY did you get and how did you determine what rail length would be needed?

stonewater wrote:

20151008_223903.jpg

here is what 325 mm arms look like on the rostock

What are you using to mount the arms to the trick trucks? They don't look like the stock mounts. Nice work btw

Do you have a pattern for a spacer to mount the ball & cup arms to the trick trucks? Ideally something where I can use those nice end stop thumbscrews you sell. :) If not, no biggie, I'm sure I can put something together in openSCAD. Thanks! This! It shouldn't be too terribly difficult to draw one ...

You can reuse the steppers, pulleys (if they're the new 20-tooth ones from SeeMeCNC), hobbed drive gear, EZ-Struder, T-slot nuts, power supply, power switch, GT2 belts, binder clips, Onyx + glass, PTFE tubing, endstop switches, controller, and LCD panel. You can also leave out the paracord unless ...

None of those, I remember it was a silverish metal and by open top I mean that I don't think the extensions were bound/secured together at the top in any way, shape, form or fashion. I wanna say it was called the "Metal Air" or something.... Anybody? EDIT: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=6 ...

Does anyone kno what thickness of aluminum should be used when waterjetting the trick trucks?

I could have sworn that I had seen a user on here post their all metal delta printer, if I remember correctly it had an open top and it looked to be made of stainless steel or aluminum. I am not talking about the Max Metal, if anyone has any info/pictures on this I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks

Thanks for this file, you are a life saver! Quick question: what thickness of aluminum should I waterjet this out of?

So just turned the fan down in the LCD from 255 to 128, that fixed it. Oops

Yesterday though I did have the powersupply over heat and shut everything down mid print. I turned it on ten minutes later with no issues since. Any idea as to why?

Can you get a picture of your first layer?

Hello everyone, I have a taz 3 with a budaschnozzle 2.0 that I custom cut some extra nozzles for out of M10 capnuts. I have a 1.0mm, a 1.4mm and a 2.0mm nozzle that I used from time to time to print giant parts with no detail. Lately I have had a few issues, and they are as follows: 1. When I went ...

I dunno, thats a good question actually. I have tightened the the conenction on the hotend thermistor and I can try to print something else and see if it happens again. Why would it short out at a certain height though and not another?

I was fiddling with my layer fan connection just now and shorted something out. I have read some threads where people used some automotive fuses as quick fixes while they waited for the real deal to arrive. Problem is, I know barely anything about wiring at all and I am honestly surprised I was able ...

I normally print around 70-80C bed temperature, but without an enclosure, printing with ABS needs a bit hotter bed temp. So I had been experimenting the last few days with temps at and above 100C, but I noticed something extremeley strange - halfway through the print the lcd screen will read DEF for ...

Hi guys, I have a weird problem here, I have constructed a dry box with a long teflon/ptfe tube on it to take the 1.65 nylon trimmer line I want to print with up to the extruder motor on my rostock v2. When I tyr to print with this setup though I get massive filament starvation. Could it be that the ...

Has anyone actually made this work? The only other thing I can think of is having some setup where the hot end not in use is moved out of the way, something like here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6POrjVXgsk Dunno how you could set that up with two nozzles on a delta effector platform though ...

Have you tried the ABS / PLA hybrid yet?

Thoughts on this? http://5axismaker.com/

Do this: http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly

then print this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:137140

Read this if need be: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 63&p=67981

It can't handle 24v on its own?

Btw nylocke I wanted to thank you for pointing me to trid's site in another thread, got a giant kapton heater from there that is rated for 24v.