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I wondered the same thing when I put mine together. I thought maybe they intended to use a larger resistor when they machined them, and then switched. I can't see any reason for doing it on purpose. Does anyone know why the holes on the SeemeCNC hot end are too big?

The first time I heated the Seemecnc hot end, there was some smoke and an unpleasant smell coming from the RTV that holds the heating resistors and thermistor in place, even with the fan on. Hopefully that's what you're seeing, and not burning PEEK. If it is damaged, I'd get an E3D hot end. They are ...

The speed of manual movements can be adjusted in the printer settings. Travel feed rate and Z-axis feed rate are the ones you want to change. I think Repetier has the default set so slow so you're less likely to crash into the bed during setup.

I have found that everything has to be just perfect to keep a direct drive extruder from skipping. The temp has to be hot enough, the pressure on the extruder bearing has to be just right, and there can't be any friction anywhere. The temperature readings vary with thermistor type and placement. The ...

Hey, thanks McSlappy. I've got my Rostock running great now. I had a bad bearing on my EZstruder and a missing outer PTFE tube in the hot end. Now with an E3D and my printed extruder, I can print PLA as fast as I want to. I've been testing the SeemeCNC hot end on another printer I'm building, and it ...

I would start from scratch. Download a fresh copy of the latest firmware and follow the instructions in the manual really carefully, paying extra attention to the endstops. As Lochemage said, be sure you open the main file in the firmware that shows all the tabs at the top. The one thing you will ...

I'd try more retract speed/distance, maybe adjust the temp down some, and be sure "don't cross perimeters" is checked. "don't cross perimeters" won't stop the strings, but will hide many of them. I calibrate for strings with two small cylinders 1cm from each other.

The link to the cloud service has a typo. It should be http://cloud.netfabb.com/. I've never tried the online version. I mostly just hit the automatic repair button in Netfabb basic and use the default settings. Does the cloud service have any advantages over that method?

Are you getting any slicing errors? If so, I would try repairing the file with Netfabb . Those holes look too big for an extrusion width problem. Are those areas just not printing, or is the infill not supporting those spots? I hope you get them fixed for Christmas. Those are some cute owls. Do you ...

I was rereading this thread and noticed this post. Here's what I would do. COMPLETELY disassemble the hot end, including unscrewing the PEEK from everything else and carefully inspecting it and the PTFE liners. You may find a thin layer of plastic hanging around on the outside of the inner or outer ...

You haven't even solved your printers problems and you're suggesting other people try what you did in order to "fix" their machines. I recieved my Rostock-Max kit a few months ago, and I have had an almost unusable printer for most of that time. I've adjusted the settings and taken it apart and put ...

Osr, that's simply untrue about the EZstruder. I'm not married to the Ezstruder - I will happily upgrade, and have already, any part on the machine that I think would benefit from it - (carbon arms, E3D, and a Smoothieboard on its way) You absolutely can print PLA faster than that with the EZ. I ...

Isn't 200-220C a bit hot for PLA. I've been having great results at 185-190C....granted this is with the stock Rostock Max hot end and SeeMeCNC trans-green PLA at 40-50 mm/sec. I am using SeeMeCNC blue PLA and I got my best speeds at 195C. Even at 30mm/s I'm still getting just a little bit of ...

You can't print PLA with an E3D? I'm having the exact same problem, and most people here thought the cause was the SeemeCNC hot end. I'm currently printing at 35mm/s with no skips, but any faster and it becomes a problem. I was going to order an E3D with the hope of fixing it, but I guess that's not ...

The 0.49 nozzle size setting over extruded so I put it back. I think it was just the skipping thinning out my beads, because it looks fine now. I wish I could find some problem with the hot end. When I push filament through by hand, it just gushes out. I can manually extrude plastic much faster than ...

I don't think my pid loop is perfectly calibrated yet, but I don't think the temperature has had anything to do with the skipping. It stays very close to the target temp during printing, and I have tried printing at many different temps. I ran the pid autotune again just to see if it would improve ...

The 0.7mm is working much better than the 0.5mm. I can print at 30mm/s now, with just a few random skips, and now that I've lowered the current, they aren't as noticeable as before. I am starting to suspect that the diameter of my 0.5mm nozzle might be off, because the print quality is much better ...

I spent some more time trying to get my Rostock max to work properly today. I tried most of your suggestions, 626pilot. I wish I could say I found a chunk of plastic in the hot end or something, but there wasn't anything obvious. I replaced the teflon tube again, carefully shaving away slices until ...

This one is on the seemecnc downloads page.

https://github.com/seemecnc/RostockMAX/ ... -container

There's significantly more force required to push filament through the tube than to just push it through the extruder, but it's not hard to do. When the printhead is up high and the tube has a loop in it, there seems to be more friction. Should I lubricate the inside of the tube? What should I use?

I thought my hot end troubles were over, but that could certainly be the problem. Soon after I first started printing with the Rostock Max, the pneumatic fitting on top of the hot end clogged with plastic. This was because I had the PEEK fan running on 5v instead of 12v. I have 5v fans on my other ...

I have tried other current settings besides 135, down to the point where it won't extrude at all. It's a trade off between how much noise the skips make, and how much filament is left out of the print. I cleaned the gear with alcohol, and it skipped less for a while, until chunks of plastic built up ...

I picked the plastic bits out of the teeth before I started testing today, but maybe a cleaning with alcohol will improve things. It has been shaving the filament for a while now and the edges could be gummed up. I know I have a magnifying glass somewhere. Thanks.

I'm almost to the end of my second spool with this machine, and it's been skipping since the beginning. I'm more familiar with the situation now, but I don't remember the first spool being much better than this one. It would be great if it just stops when I put in the next spool, but this one seems ...

Missed your last post. I meant to say the current.