Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Hello all

I don’t yet own a Rostock MAX v2, but I got permission from upper management <wife> to purchase one in the next few weeks.

I have been intrigued by the use of 3D printing in making anatomic models at work. My company has provided my staff with a Makerbot. Unfortunately, I have several jobs at work, so I won’t get to actually work with the thing much. My staff will handle most of the day to day tasks. I’d really like to understand the process and technology fundamentally, and potentially understand why prints fail. I’d also like to use the printer for some basic research.

Yes – essentially, at work I’m the guy that may inadvertently ask for something impossible, and not understand why its impossible, and why its failing.

Add to that my two sons and a healthy arduino/early robotics/quadricopter hobby, and I think we’re ready to take on a project like building a Rostock MAX v2.

Goals:
1 – Understand the technology and build something from the ground up while working together.
2 – Have fun.
3 – Have decent build volume.
4 – Be reasonably accurate.
5 – Be able to print ABS and PLA.
6 – Be able to make more fun stuff when we’re done.

I could use a little advice on a couple of choices.

• I’m a little confused by the Raspberry PI and Mattercontrol Touch options. I do need to untether from my computer, as I’ll need to use it and/or take it to work without stopping a print. Do I need both – or does the OctoPI option accomplish the untethering? I also like the idea of being able to shut off a print that’s failed remotely.
  
  The only thing about the kit that worries me is the hotend itself. Is it worth just buying a E3Dv6 and just keeping the stock hotend as a backup? (I guess I could build it all, then remove the stock and put the E3Dv6 once its all working.)
  
  Software-wise we use a DICOM workflow with Slicer3D to generate the initial files. Meshlab can be helpful to clean things up, then send over to the Makerbot. I can do basic things with these already. However, at home we'd like to be able to design parts, cases, frames, robots, star destroyers, whatever. Any recommendations/guidance for open source 3d part design software? I'd like to be able to learn with downloaded models from the web, but the magic will start to happen when we design our own.
  
  Especially when working with my sons, the thing must look cool. I'd like to add the Tricklaser light ring. I noticed that there may be clearance issues. On a few of the mods, I'd like to at least run the wires during assembly so I don't have to tear the whole thing apart to add something I know I'll want in the end. Anyone have comments on this particular mod, or a better suggestion for lighting the effector?

Bottom line: I'm thinking

From SeeMeCNC

Rostock MAX v2 with OctoPi setup
2 additional fans for layer cooling
Extra RAMBo fuses
Tension spring spares
Several rolls of ABS, Few of PLA

From Tricklaser

Tricklaser light ring

From Filastruder

E3Dv6 hotend with nozzle selection

From Utilibots

Astrosyn Stepper Dampers (are the Tricklaser ones as effective?)

I'm also considering the Makerhive top plate if it makes things more modular. Is this something not too painful to install later?

Am I missing anything that I should have on hand during the assembly phase? I've seen a couple of ideas for enclosing the build area, so that will be an early project once we're up and running.

Thanks again. The community is a huge reason I've settled on the Rostock MAX v2. I look forward to joining the ranks!

D

You don't need an RPI or MC Touch to print headless...They just make it more convenient. With a stock machine, you can tether, load gcode files to the memory card in the stock LCD, then disconnect and untether the computer before launching the print from the LCD.

If you build the machine stock first, you won't have to buy a mount for the E3D, since you'll be able to print one. It's not a huge deal to swap hot ends. There are even some who've put plugs in line so they can swap them back and forth.

The Rostock Max was my first approach to the 3d printing world and it's been awesome. Before putting this machine together, I had literally no clue on how a 3d printer works.
I have never seen one live, never heard about what a hotend, thermistor, kapton tape, stepper and all the gibberish related to it was. It was also the first time I had to use a soldering iron and luckily, the Rambo board turned out ok... can't say the same about how I soldered the onyx bed, but I've fixed that now

I did burnt my hotend the first time I turn it on. Never knew if it was a short or a defective thermistor. So as a replacement, I used one 12v 40w Heater Cartridge instead of the heating resistors.
They feel more reliable to me. Also, if you can, try to avoid RTV silicone. It's messy, looks bad and it's actually a thermal insulator. Use Kapton Tape instead or high temperature self fusing tape.
There are at least 2 videos showing how to upgrade the stock hotend. If I find the links I post them.

I've said it before, the best thing this kit has is the freaking manual.
Without it and without the help of this community I wouldn't be printing right now.


So yes, go ahead a buy a Rostock Max, I assure you wont regret it.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fdb3nyu29ko[/youtube]
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvXKt3xDt4E[/youtube]

Nice of you to show the connector-solder-video. I just received a few XT30 connectors. I know the XT60 is very popular, but this one is less bulky and should be able to handle 30amps. I cant believe the amount of solder going in! I guess it needs to be "filled up" all the way?

You don't need the XT series connectors. See here: http://seemecnc.dozuki.com/Guide/Max+Ha ... connect/32

g.

I know Gene, but I like them!
I don't suppose they are not good for the job are they?

They're fine, just overkill.

g.

I still use XT60 inside the machine, they are bulky but I love them.
But... for the quick-connect/disconnect I've moved everything away from the effector. Instead of making plugs there, I used a 12 pin molex and put it close to the cold end.
So if I want to disconnect everything I just take some cables with it.

I'm having trouble explaining it in english... here are some pictures


[img]https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1504/2477 ... 5f50_b.jpg[/img]

[img]https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1521/2477 ... 917d_b.jpg[/img]

12 pin:
4 for the hotend
2 for led ring
2 for thermistor
2 hotend fan
2 layer fan


Got the idea from here http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=8499

I recently built my Rostock MAX v2 so here are my two cents:

Dionysus480 wrote: I’m a little confused by the Raspberry PI and Mattercontrol Touch options. I do need to untether from my computer, as I’ll need to use it and/or take it to work without stopping a print. Do I need both – or does the OctoPI option accomplish the untethering? I also like the idea of being able to shut off a print that’s failed remotely.

A Raspberry Pi with Octoprint (Octopi distribution) will allow you to monitor and stop your prints remotely (and even add a webcam to view them). The default access is for the local network only but it can be configured to be open to the Internet (make sure you lock it down with a password though - you don't want just anyone accessing it). It works very well, IMO and I like that it can be accessed on any device with a browser.

Based on other opinions I've read around here, get the quad-core RPi 2 - the older models may have trouble keeping up with the Rostock.

The only thing about the kit that worries me is the hotend itself. Is it worth just buying a E3Dv6 and just keeping the stock hotend as a backup? (I guess I could build it all, then remove the stock and put the E3Dv6 once its all working.)

The stock hotend works just fine, especially with the smaller (0.35mm) nozzle. The E3D is nice but probably can wait as an upgrade until after you have the stock one built and dialed in. Save that project for another day. However, DO build the machine with the Astrosyn dampers from the beginning - your ears will thank you, and it is much easier to do it before the whole thing is together. Make sure you offset the pulley correctly - follow this guide: https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/ ... tall-guide .

Any recommendations/guidance for open source 3d part design software?

There's plenty of open-source CAD software from easy but limited to hard but infinitely flexible. There's a bit of a gap in the easy-but-flexible category. If you have a programming background, check out OpenSCAD or its derivatives. It has a bit of a learning curve but is great for precision parts. If programming is not your cup of tea, start with Tinkercad. If you have a spare grand or two sitting around, I hear SolidWorks is the industry standard, but I wouldn't know since I haven't taken that particular plunge yet.

If you're doing DICOM stuff at home, I believe Osirix (Mac) can export to STL.

Am I missing anything that I should have on hand during the assembly phase?

Get an extra borosilicate plate from SeeMeCNC (esp. if it saves on shipping) and look into adding a layer of PEI as a build surface. It is MUCH better than your usual tape/glue/ABS-juice solutions. You don't NEED this at first, but you should move to it as soon as you can. It is a quality of life thing.

Again, I'm no pro since I've only been at this a little longer than you but it's all fresh in my mind.

Happy printing!!!

Thanks very much guys. These bits of advice are great.

I really appreciate the advice on adding connectors into the hotend connections. That makes a lot of sense. Not sure I know enough to select my connector type, but I'm really thinking thats an upgrade shortly after assembly.

I also REALLY appreciate the instructions to make the stock hotend assembly neater. I'm going to source the heater cartridge and screws and not even mess with the Permatex.

Thanks for the link for the damper article. PEI is a new concept for me. I've been reading/researching a lot, and that addition to the build surface seems to be a super common recommendation. I'll have to source it, as it sounds like the right thing to do (chuckle, but from some of the posts, I do remember to reset the Z-height right away.)

I think I'll skip the matter control touch. That buys a fair amount of filament to mess around with.

My chance to give a tiny bit back to the community: Osirix does indeed export .stl as one option. But they have been moving farther away from their Open Source roots. The Horos Project picked up the open source code and continues to carry it in the open source community. More robust than the low cost Osirix options, so anyone trying to do something with DICOM data (and access to a Mac) might want to look them up. http://www.horosproject.org

Thanks again so much!

D

Tincho85, that looks very nice!
Still I would make a similar connection on the hotend side also, for making quick hotend changes without having to make compete wiretrees for each (not that I have that many but still...)
The idea of a seperate wiretree is quite apealing, and nicely pictured in the link you provided. Guess I will have to step-up my soldering and crimping skills soon!