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I could have sworn that I had seen a user on here post their all metal delta printer, if I remember correctly it had an open top and it looked to be made of stainless steel or aluminum. I am not talking about the Max Metal, if anyone has any info/pictures on this I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks

Maybe Berrybot?

TrickLaser Max Metal

http://tricklaser.com/MAX-METAL-Frame-MAXMTLFRM.htm

[img]http://tricklaser.com/images/MAX%20META ... 415-01.jpg[/img]


D'oh! I just read the whole post. You already knew that it wasn't that...

This one?
If so, it's mine. What you like to know? If not, sorry, carry on.

None of those, I remember it was a silverish metal and by open top I mean that I don't think the extensions were bound/secured together at the top in any way, shape, form or fashion. I wanna say it was called the "Metal Air" or something....

Anybody?

EDIT:

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=4875


found it

Ahh. The TrickLaser Nemesis.

I post a few pictures of it every time that Brian brings it to the Hive. https://www.facebook.com/themakerhive

There is also a unibody delta printer. The "towers" are implemented by extruding a large hollow triangle, with the rails built in as part of the extrusion. It looks like something you'd buy in an Apple store.

I think he might be talking about the NEMESIS AIR DELTA
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... +Air+Delta


[img]http://forum.seemecnc.com/download/file ... &mode=view[/img]

Outsider wrote:I think he might be talking about the NEMESIS AIR DELTA
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... +Air+Delta

You mean the exact same post that was posted three posts above yours?

That is a thing of beauty there is no doubt. what happened to the project? did it go into production at the $4,500 price point? mentioned in that thread?
I would love to know "the rest of the story"

Yeah, it got me drooling too...
Besides the beauty of simplicity, would there be a reason for not having upper segments connecting the towers?
I once heard there is some kind of trick to inverse the arms, to get the head above the skates instead of below.
That would mean you can print objects that are taller that the actual machine..!

DeltaCon wrote:Yeah, it got me drooling too...
Besides the beauty of simplicity, would there be a reason for not having upper segments connecting the towers?
I once heard there is some kind of trick to inverse the arms, to get the head above the skates instead of below.
That would mean you can print objects that are taller that the actual machine..!

The hard part is finding a table tall enough so it reaches the ceiling! Just print a spiral vase without a bottom, instant globes for all those damn can lights everyone was putting in houses the last 10 years.

bot wrote:This one?

IMG_4006.JPG

If so, it's mine. What you like to know? If not, sorry, carry on.

Well now that you mention it I do have some questions for you about the misumi linear rails. Which size EXACTLY did you get and how did you determine what rail length would be needed?

TFMike wrote:

bot wrote:This one?

IMG_4006.JPG

If so, it's mine. What you like to know? If not, sorry, carry on.

Well now that you mention it I do have some questions for you about the misumi linear rails. Which size EXACTLY did you get and how did you determine what rail length would be needed?

I got the PLRH25-880 rails. 880 mm length. The length is the only configurable option besides multiple carriages and carriage locks. I determined this length simply by using my cad model of my printer. They are actually longer than needed, I could probably get away with 800 mm, as the carriages don't travel all the way to the base (with my configuration).

I should mention that these rails DO need to be kept clean. Just yesterday I had a rail get a bunch of gunk in it from a belt rubbing/breaking mishap, and one of the bearings on the carriage damn near froze completely. There was some mild print defects due to this, namely odd patterns in the surface finish and the occasional hiccup. I bought another rail (at $40) to replace it, but it actually seemed to clean up nicely with a cloth, and added lithium grease. I'm still gonna replace it and inspect for damage. This likely happened because I have not been regularly cleaning or lubing the rails. I'm kind of putting them through a stress test. Even though the one carriage encountered those problems, the 36 hour print still completed to satisfactory results (better than my rostock max, still, with a borked carriage )

Overall, they seem to be a good option for rails, though not as maintenance free as wheels on the extrusion like the rostock max.

If you have any other questions, let me know!

bot wrote:

TFMike wrote:

bot wrote:This one?

IMG_4006.JPG

If so, it's mine. What you like to know? If not, sorry, carry on.

Well now that you mention it I do have some questions for you about the misumi linear rails. Which size EXACTLY did you get and how did you determine what rail length would be needed?

I got the PLRH25-880 rails. 880 mm length. The length is the only configurable option besides multiple carriages and carriage locks. I determined this length simply by using my cad model of my printer. They are actually longer than needed, I could probably get away with 800 mm, as the carriages don't travel all the way to the base (with my configuration).

I should mention that these rails DO need to be kept clean. Just yesterday I had a rail get a bunch of gunk in it from a belt rubbing/breaking mishap, and one of the bearings on the carriage damn near froze completely. There was some mild print defects due to this, namely odd patterns in the surface finish and the occasional hiccup. I bought another rail (at $40) to replace it, but it actually seemed to clean up nicely with a cloth, and added lithium grease. I'm still gonna replace it and inspect for damage. This likely happened because I have not been regularly cleaning or lubing the rails. I'm kind of putting them through a stress test. Even though the one carriage encountered those problems, the 36 hour print still completed to satisfactory results (better than my rostock max, still, with a borked carriage )

Overall, they seem to be a good option for rails, though not as maintenance free as wheels on the extrusion like the rostock max.

If you have any other questions, let me know!

Sorry to necro this thread, but why did you switch to linear rails? What benefits are you seeing with them?

Other than cost, I don't know why anyone wouldn't run linear rails.

Never have to be adjusted
10000x more accurate
quieter
smoother
better
better
better