Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

I’ve read of some common upgrades here on the forum. Any chance these will get rolled into a V3 version of the Rostock Max anytime soon?

I'd bet that we're stable with the V2 for a while longer. The original model was stable for 2+ years before it was changed. Plus, a lot of the upgrades that folks do would effect the price point that the V2 hits so well.

Would like to see "Rostock Pro v1" all metal kit with the typical upgrades people already pay extra for.

KAS wrote:Would like to see "Rostock Pro v1" all metal kit with the typical upgrades people already pay extra for.

What upgrades are people typically paying for? The only one I'm aware of is additional height.

TrickLaser arms, TrickTrucks, something from E3D (V6 or Legends pack), slightly beefier PSU, Smoothie based board (?), those are the main ones.

Nylocke wrote:TrickLaser arms, TrickTrucks, something from E3D (V6 or Legends pack), slightly beefier PSU, Smoothie based board (?), those are the main ones.

Thanks for answering my question. Why need a beefier PSU? How does the current one limit the machine?

Not necessarily, but some people do 24V or a high performance one to get faster heat times for the bed.

Nylocke covered it all, something not arduino based and .9 degree 400 step, steppers

Yesterday I had a long conversation with one of the directors of a company that makes high-end power conditioning gear (airports, TV studios, banks, etc.). I mentioned that one of my 3D printers came with a surplus HP computer power brick and the other came with a PC power supply. Gave him a good laugh. He said they sell a LOT of their gear to support gear that SHOULD have decent power supplies but doesn't. Air traffic control, giant printing presses, hospital lab gear, etc.

Anyway, the problem with PC power supplies is...they're a consumer PC power supply. They only work in computers since the computer rarely draws close to the label wattage plus pretty much every board in the computer has a sub-regulator since nobody uses the raw voltage if they can avoid it.

I'd like to see a unit with a wider build area, with an enclosure.

An all-metal Rostock MAX is easy. Just grab the DXF files off github and take them to your local waterjet cutter. Just make sure you're sitting down when they quote you a price for the job.

g.

KAS wrote:Would like to see "Rostock Pro v1" all metal kit with the typical upgrades people already pay extra for.

That's crazy talk!

[img]http://i.imgur.com/YzAsc7c.png[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/13XFH4g.png[/img]

Jimustanguitar wrote:

KAS wrote:Would like to see "Rostock Pro v1" all metal kit with the typical upgrades people already pay extra for.

That's crazy talk!

I need more info...

dang Jim, you let the cat out of the bag.

I am building a simplified all aluminum Rostock MAX sized frame to be introduce at MRRF.
The "MAX METAL" frame by Trick Laser

It is the blank frame only, with the precision machine work done. Ends of frame side pieces are machined at a 30 degree angle with a key that fits into slot. Also dowel pin to locate.
The design self aligns perfectly spaced and square, Just bolt it together. Machined mounting holes for stepper motor and idlers will be included also.
(3) vertical 1" x 1" columns and (6) 1/2" x 2" frame sides make the whole frame... simple, strong and elegant.
I am using the same custom fixtures built for machining the NEMESIS Air Delta frames.

This makes a solid & true frame for you guys to build onto.
All the other little bits and pieces are up to you to design.
Actually many of the parts from a stock SeeMe Rostock MAX will work with this frame.

No price set yet, will be posted on http://www.TrickLaser.com

Boy am I glad I finally put my order in for a V2 yesterday. Otherwise this new frame might have made me hesitate a little. I'm glad to finally be all-in. At some point the research has to stop and you need to just jump in. The only upgrade I ordered were the motor dampers. Also got a .35mm nozzle since I'm interested in high resolution.

Honestly I'm looking forward to this.

EL Cuajinais wrote:Boy am I glad I finally put my order in for a V2 yesterday. Otherwise this new frame might have made me hesitate a little. I'm glad to finally be all-in. At some point the research has to stop and you need to just jump in. The only upgrade I ordered were the motor dampers. Also got a .35mm nozzle since I'm interested in high resolution.

Welcome to the club! You'll enjoy your RMax, they're very nice machines.

The new aluminum frame is a little bit different animal than the full Rostock kit. It's probably better to start with a complete machine first, and do the mods, upgrades, and new builds second. You'd want a working printer to design your brackets and fixtures for the new model anyway.

How are those brackets sized? Perhaps if they were sized correctly they could be used as extra bracing at the bottom and possibly top of the printer? The frame doesn't do much to ensure proper tower spacing as is..

Nylocke wrote:How are those brackets sized? Perhaps if they were sized correctly they could be used as extra bracing at the bottom and possibly top of the printer? The frame doesn't do much to ensure proper tower spacing as is..

Now that's an idea! Maybe these could be sized to install inside of an existing Rostock... On the V2, you'd probably have to install the control board elsewhere, maybe bump the power supply over a bit... Sounds like something worth testing!

Can't wait to see that metal frame! I'm coming from Minnesota for the MRRF(my wife is from Goshen so it's also a family trip.

The idea of braces sounds interesting to me too. I am putting the towers in today on my build so I will see how it goes. From my reading the forum though this seems to be a major issue of all of them being +/- 1/8 to 1/4 inch over the length of the tower.

By design the "MAX METAL" frame in self aligning, true, square and sturdy on it's own, you don't need any brackets.

geneb wrote:An all-metal Rostock MAX is easy. Just grab the DXF files off github and take them to your local waterjet cutter. Just make sure you're sitting down when they quote you a price for the job.

g.

$700 for the jetting, plus the material. I could buy a new Rostock by the time that was through. I'd rather have another melamine rostock.

Tinyhead wrote:

geneb wrote:An all-metal Rostock MAX is easy. Just grab the DXF files off github and take them to your local waterjet cutter. Just make sure you're sitting down when they quote you a price for the job.

g.

$700 for the jetting, plus the material. I could buy a new Rostock by the time that was through. I'd rather have another melamine rostock.

I agree, not worth the cost.

I will buy one.