Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Hello, All.

My Rostock Max V2 will arrive on Wednesday and I'm looking forward to the build and printing. I've already gained a ton of info just skimming through some of the posts on this forum and looking forward to be able to contribute to that info in the future.

- Marcel

Hi and welcome to the Forum! Thanks for buying the Max V2.
Send up some pictures of your build or open a build log under the build log subforum.
Have a great and enjoyable time building and printing with your new printer and please
do not hesitate to ask questions if you need to, we are ready to help.
Happy building and printing!

My Rostock MAX V2 has arrived! Let the fun begin!

[img]http://sosandtrappers.com/upload/box.jpg[/img]

well, 12hrs and 26 min later (spread out over a couple of weeks) IT'S ALIVE!Just need to load the firmware and calibrate

[img]http://sosandtrappers.com/upload/itsalive2.jpg[/img]

Looks too clean!

Oh, it will get "dirty" soon enough

Looks great!!
Excellent job of building!

Thanks. I got the firmware installed last night. At first I had problems with the firmware not compiling. Turns out that I downloaded the wrong version of Arduino. When you first go to the Arduino link that is provided in the Manual, you are immediately on the download page. What isn't apparent right away is that this version (1.60.0) is NOT the version you want. You want ver 1.0.6. You have to go to a link that shows previous versions. This really should be made clear in the manual that the current version is not what you want. The current version (1.60.0) will clear the EPROM just fine, but when you try to compile the firmware, you get errors. Once I realized that the current version is not the correct version, I uninstalled it and downloaded 1.0.6 from the previous versions page. The firmware compiled successfully and now I'm ready to begin the calibration process.

Geneb should be reading this and he will make a decision if something needs changed.
He is the author of all the documentation. Thanks for reporting this.

Ok folks, I need a guinea pig or two. There is a fix for this issue and it involves changing instances of "prog_char" to "char" in ui.cpp. Unfortunately, I can't commit the changes without getting testing done first and I can't do that right now. I need one or two people to grab the 1.6 IDE, pull a new copy of the firmware, make those changes and then run some test prints, paying attention to how the LCD operates.

If you can test, do so and please let me know if there are any issues.

---

The root cause of this has to do with the 1.6 IDE using a much more current version of the avr-gcc compiler. The prog_char datatype has been deprecated for quite some time, but was still handled by the old avc-gcc compiler that the 1.0.6 Arduino IDE was shipping with.

g.

g.

Seems to work fine. I used the 0.91 master codeline that I downloaded a couple of weeks ago, but 1.6.0 of the arduino IDE built it and it seems to run fine. No obvious LCD issues so far (not extensively tested though).

Thanks Nareikuk. I've emailed John about it to have him test changes on the machines he has at the office. If it's all good he should be committing a change to the git repo.

g.

Nareikuk,

Thanks so much for posting the update on the IDE version. I am having that problem right now. However, 1.0.5 is the newest version I see up there. I will go downgrade my version and give it a try.

I am new as well, just finished my Black Rostock Max V2 today and am thrilled.

Your looks very familiar.... it's a beaut'!!!

Charlie
Portland OR

1.6.0 (on Windows at least) compiled repetier 0.91 without any issues after the prog_char type was changed to char, so you should be fine with the latest arduino IDE if you can make that small code change. It is only in 5 or 6 places in ui.cpp - 30 seconds to fix. Or you can grab the latest repetier from git once Gene's change has been approved.

The 1.6 arduino IDE fix (thanks geneb!) is now pushed and updated on both Orion AND rostock firmware repos. I ran two romax's and one orion, using 1.0.5 up to the newest 1.6 and on three revisions of rambo boards, all worked no problems, so we're all good in the hood now boys

\o/

g.

Excellent!

I finally was able to get my first print done last night! It was the Peek Fan Shroud. I have to say that I am impressed! Even using the basic "Standard" settings in Matter Control, the resolution was high, the vertical walls were straight and it required very little cleanup. This is a very rewarding outcome from a great product and fun build!

Here is a video of my first print (Time accelerated so its only about a 6 min video):

https://vimeo.com/120465178

For first print that was actually really nice, you must have put it together just right.

I just got mine last night and have 6 hours in to my build, don't know that I will have it done in 12 and change like you. I had an hour and 15 minutes just in removing masking from all the parts. Anyways nice work and by the way I got the Black Max also, really like how it looks!

Neptune wrote:For first print that was actually really nice, you must have put it together just right.

I just got mine last night and have 6 hours in to my build, don't know that I will have it done in 12 and change like you. I had an hour and 15 minutes just in removing masking from all the parts. Anyways nice work and by the way I got the Black Max also, really like how it looks!

Don't feel bad, it took me almost two hours to remove the masking...It wasn't until the end that I discovered a faster way to do it. I actually documented and timed each part of the build. I do have an electronics background and I also build large R/C multirotor aircraft (Drones) so I think that experience helped me get through it a lot quicker. The time was spread out over about two weeks, a little each evening after work... I did upgrade to a Corsair RM750 power supply and installed dampers from the get-go.

I was actually surprised how well the first print came out so I guess I did get everything line up correctly.

I continue to be impressed and pleased with the prints produced by the MAX V2!

I knew it did well on the fan shroud but I wanted to see how it did on more organic shapes. I downloaded this frog from thingiverse and it came out very well in ABS with just the standard settings in Matter Control. It's 2" long so this is a zoomed in shot.

Other than the initial calibration, I haven't done anything to the printer. I'm still researching on ways to really dial in the printer and make it even better!

[img]http://sosandtrappers.com/upload/froggy.jpg[/img]

mvansomeren wrote:

Neptune wrote:For first print that was actually really nice, you must have put it together just right.

I just got mine last night and have 6 hours in to my build, don't know that I will have it done in 12 and change like you. I had an hour and 15 minutes just in removing masking from all the parts. Anyways nice work and by the way I got the Black Max also, really like how it looks!

Don't feel bad, it took me almost two hours to remove the masking...It wasn't until the end that I discovered a faster way to do it. I actually documented and timed each part of the build. I do have an electronics background and I also build large R/C multirotor aircraft (Drones) so I think that experience helped me get through it a lot quicker. The time was spread out over about two weeks, a little each evening after work... I did upgrade to a Corsair RM750 power supply and installed dampers from the get-go.

I was actually surprised how well the first print came out so I guess I did get everything line up correctly.

Well we are in the same boat i too build Multirotor aircraft and I part of the OpenPilot Flight Test Team. I build things all the time and electronics don't scare me a bit. I put dampers on mine out of the box also. Was your heated print bed level? Mine has a very slight hump toward the middle...

and that is a very nice frog!

Neptune wrote:Well we are in the same boat i too build Multirotor aircraft and I part of the OpenPilot Flight Test Team. I build things all the time and electronics don't scare me a bit. I put dampers on mine out of the box also. Was your heated print bed level? Mine has a very slight hump toward the middle...

and that is a very nice frog!

There was a slight hump in my print bed as well. Just install it with the 6 screws barely finger tight. Then when you clamp the glass on top of the bed, it will conform to the glass. That worked for me.

will try that, mine are probably finger tight with the screwdriver not bare handed.