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My friend at Ask Laser Creations printed out a proper name plate.

I went with magnetic inserts for the 3 large panels for easy removal. Threaded inserts for the rail panels.

Very Nice. How long have you had it?

techstorage wrote:I went with magnetic inserts for the 3 large panels for easy removal. Threaded inserts for the rail panels.

I like it, nice job.

BONE wrote:Very Nice. How long have you had it?

I just started. I bought the kit this August, but was moving a flight simulator from Minnesota to Atlanta. That project is over, so now I can enjoy learning more about 3D printing.

That is indeed a thing of beauty. Very nice.

WOW! That my friend is one nice piece of machinery. I love the green/black too btw, somewhere someone will find a pic and post it im sure of my personal Rostock max, it's green/black too. It was the prototype frame for tricklasers parts.

Added E3D v6 print head and I'm liking the 60mm angle eyes LED ring under the heat end. I put the 80mm one on the top of the chamber also.

A very nice looking printer!
Thanks for posting the pictures.

Time for an update on the Black Max. Printing out parts for Magnetic arms and dual extruder. Installing the Cyclop's head first from my E3D legends pack. I'm looking at printing out JFettig's dual extruder top mount design with Geared stepper motors installed. My son combined the Xnaron effector model with 0110-M-P's Cyclops and Chimera holder. We pushed out the back brackets and installed adjustment holes to align the heads.

I found someone selling excess 3/8 chrome plated steel ball that have a screw base on the Google forum.
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic ... 85cfVFrFFU[1-25]

Installed my magnetic arm last night. I only connected my E3D v6 head, the wiring for dual head isn't completed yet.

Looks good! What is the pink stuff wrapped around the nozzle base?

In the military I think we called it F4 tape. http://www.f4tape.com/ It is silicone heat tape the sticks to itself. It is for protection against fans cooling the hotend plus radiant heat melting the plastic above it. I get better heat control on the hotend with it on also. The tape is Orange with a white strip, but it comes in other colors also.

aaaand bought. Amazon has it for $13.95.

g.

Yea, that stuff is freaking awesome. Used to use it to seal up the back side of cannon plugs.

Sorry to break in here, but I am interested in those mounters for the acrylic panels. Can't seem to find STL's anywhere. Someone care to share?

DeltaCon wrote:Sorry to break in here, but I am interested in those mounters for the acrylic panels. Can't seem to find STL's anywhere. Someone care to share?

Those are Raymond style brackets, with the original designs here: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5695

Note that the upper bracket as linked there will not fit a V2. If you have an enclosed top, you want my modification of the upper bracket, which is linked here: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 138#p78429

You will need to find/print chocks for the lower brackets, to go into the side slots of the extrusion. For the original top design you screw them into the top plate. The Rostock max V2 compatible top bracket requires no extra hardware, as it is trapped by the bolts going to the T-nuts for the top plate. (the upper pair on each tower does not need to be moved, as it is nestled into a slot in the bracket)

You will want blind nuts to insert into the holes as well. I find that heating them with a torch, pressing them slightly into the slots to form a centered divot, and then drilling out the majority of it is quick, easy, and doesn't gum up the threads like when I just hot-pressed them. If they are slightly loose, use an acetone/abs slurry on the barrel of the blind nut to hold them in permanently. This will not make the machine less serviceable, as the panels are screwed into the blind nuts, and it's easier to unscrew the bolts rather than attempt to slide all four out without binding.

You likely don't want acyrlic if you plan on doing much chamber heating. Polycarbonate is less likely to warp, and is easier to drill the holes for the bolts into.

Thanks Xenocrates, will definitely try!
Looks like there is a whole lot more 3d printer parts on Repables then on Thingiverse. Did not know that.

As I Modify my top assembly to add twin towers and dual extruders, I have searched for parts to make my EZstruder drive with two geared stepper motors and now I'm looking to replace the roller bearing for the filament drive to a dual gear drive. I think I found all the parts on Amazon.com Has anyone hobbed a bolt? I want to do that to the gears and make twin Bondtech QR/printrbot styled geared extruder for my Black Max out of the EZstruders.

When i looked into it, I found three options, one of which is likely not applicable to you, that being machining the gears and hobbed bolts, then hardening. It was cheapest, but also hardest, and requires a lot of equipment for no guarantee of success. The second was to buy gears and hobbed bolts, then assemble them. It cost more to do that with any sort of precision than buying the bondtech gears, and very careful selection of matching gears and bolts. Personally, I bought the whole unit, but you could buy the gears,print the housing, and.finagle with matching shaft diameters from there.

Buying a Bondtech QR is the quickest solution, but costly.


I have access to a full shop, lathe and mill, torches for heat treating. As the picture of my top board shows, laser cutting also. I think the geared stepper with dual gear extrusion is the way to go, and I have four extruders to make so far. You can never have enough printers.

I have a few EZstruders already and I am getting all the parts to make 4 sets of gears for $50. I was looking for past experience on hobbing to see if the mill is the way to go? What size of bit to use, v-grove vs concave notches. That sort of stuff.

I found this youtube video on Hobbing with a lathe... for reference.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijgzBlRF8T8