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I found these they have nice and flexible wire attached to them.


http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-10-Pa ... 50810.html


So if you are thinking of ordering the printer I would recommend getting these. Oh and download the manual and read it completely right now.

teoman wrote:I found these they have nice and flexible wire attached to them.


http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-10-Pa ... 50810.html


So if you are thinking of ordering the printer I would recommend getting these. Oh and download the manual and read it completely right now.

I ended up only using one JST connector in my entire build, and that was because I used a screw-in thermistor.

I used a bunch of the latching polarized connectors (from Hansen Hobbies, the supplier geneb recommends in the build manual) for all of my low power connections (steppers, end stop wiring, fans, etc.

I'm actually in the process of moving over to a Smoothieboard to drive my printer and I'm mounting it externally, so now I'm using those connectors to build an umbilical to connect the controller to the printer.

Can you tell me more about a screw in thermistor? To the hot end?

Just another alternative: I had those but wanted a single connector for the whole hot end - fans, thermistor, heater. The ceramic heaters have nice long leads on 'em, long enough you can happily solder the ends. Quick solder splices of the other leads and cover in heatshrink means it's now all one part with a connector that can handle the heater current, is designed for a vibration environment, is cheap and is available at any auto store:

[img]http://www.simonlockwood.net/linky/3dp/e3dpart.jpg[/img]

teoman wrote:I found these they have nice and flexible wire attached to them.


http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-10-Pa ... 50810.html


So if you are thinking of ordering the printer I would recommend getting these. Oh and download the manual and read it completely right now.

Bastard! why didn't you post this before I crimped them by hand?!? Not to mention, they're much more expensive as parts from hansen

Captain Starfish wrote:Just another alternative: I had those but wanted a single connector for the whole hot end - fans, thermistor, heater. The ceramic heaters have nice long leads on 'em, long enough you can happily solder the ends. Quick solder splices of the other leads and cover in heatshrink means it's now all one part with a connector that can handle the heater current, is designed for a vibration environment, is cheap and is available at any auto store:

[img]http://www.simonlockwood.net/linky/3dp/e3dpart.jpg[/img]

What kind of connector is that? Looks interesting.

Standard automotive connector block that holds a bunch of spade connectors. Sold here in Oz as "Narva" brand mostly, but they're pretty much in any auto parts shop. Shown here is an eight pin block with only six pins installed, I've left room for the layer fan which I've not yet replaced since converting to an E3D hotend.

I remember screw in NTC-s that look like the RS-Components nr 1912184, but also a tabed type RS nr 1912128 This is probably not the right value and it needs to operate with the control unit that expects a certain room temp value. Usually these NTC's obey an exponential law with 2 fitting parameters one reaction speed. Either the controller program is made to handle only one type of NTC with these 2 parameters mandatory or some controllers can be programmed to accept other parameters. As the operating temperature of the hot end is quite high and different for PLA, ABS and/or Nylon you have to be sure what the controller can handle and which NTC's allow such high temperatures ( solder, paint and isolation ). The word thermistor can signify NegativeTemp.Coeff. (most semiconducting solids) or PositiveTC (most metals, much more linear) or even an electronic circuit that specializes in giving a temperature signal.

So before you decide to use an alternative for the ones in your box, be sure about the room temp resistance, the NTC/PTC type and with an NTC the 2 parameters the controller can handle.

I still have to build mine and I'm waiting for a no 1 melamine board before I can continue, so reading the forum's intro's I saw your question about screw-on thermistors was still unanswered.
Good luck with the build and use.

Nice find.
Thanks.

RAMTechRob wrote:Can you tell me more about a screw in thermistor? To the hot end?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Modular-Screw-o ... 1341736569

Rated to 260C based on the JBWeld they pot the thermistor in.

You could pot a thermistor in something more temperature resistant yourself - they're just using a little M3 brass standoff to mount the thermistor in.

Fiddler2070 wrote:

teoman wrote:I found these they have nice and flexible wire attached to them.


http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-10-Pa ... 50810.html





So if you are thinking of ordering the printer I would recommend getting these. Oh and download the manual and read it completely right now.

Bastard! why didn't you post this before I crimped them by hand?!? Not to mention, they're much more expensive as parts from hansen

i did. In a couple of threads. Infact i put it now in a separate thread because i felt like a pusher.

Captain Starfish wrote:Just another alternative: I had those but wanted a single connector for the whole hot end - fans, thermistor, heater.

Here's another option for a single connector hot-end setup: http://www.themakerhive.com/shop/viewit ... oductid=18

Thanks bdjohns, it looks good to me.

teoman wrote:I found these they have nice and flexible wire attached to them.


http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-10-Pa ... 50810.html


So if you are thinking of ordering the printer I would recommend getting these. Oh and download the manual and read it completely right now.

I ordered mine just about a month ago, they arrived today.
US $2.49 for 10 seemed so cheap as to be hardly worth while, so I doubled up.

NO IDEA what I will do with the whole $4.98 worth, so if anyone wants one or two send me an e-mail.
That way you won't have to wait a month.

BTW, they are pretty much as advertised, about 5 inches of wire on each, stripped back an 1/8 inch or so and tinned.

I ordered 3 packs.

Used quite a few already.
I used 4 sets on my automatic cat feeder. I found a discarded toshiba laptop battery. Separeated the cells (it was a 2p3s config) in to 3 seets of 2p cells. Put a male and female on each. Put a male connector in the machine. Stuffed the batteries inside and no more replacing dcells.

As advertised, they can have bad quality control. So check that the black and red locations match. (Although all of mine matched)

teoman wrote:I found these they have nice and flexible wire attached to them.


http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-10-Pa ... 50810.html


So if you are thinking of ordering the printer I would recommend getting these. Oh and download the manual and read it completely right now.

This is excellent. I hate putting pins in JST connectors, but now I don't have to!

I must admit that initially i thought that the wires were silicone coated wires. Those are very very flexible. But these ones are standard wires. They are also fit for purpose.

I have been using these connectors for quite a bit now.

However I just discovered these:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10-pcs-J ... 67166.html

They are basically the same connector but the wire SHOULD be much softer. I am ordering them now, and will report back once i receive them.

The JST connectors are also located at Amazon.com at this link:
http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Batt ... 6082875217

The comment for those do not look to be too good. Apparently the polarity is incorrect (not that it matters when you are only delivering power to heating elements).
They do look like the ones in my initial post.

However, in the last post, the connectors are described as having silicone wire. If they are not lying, the silicone wire is like wet spaghetti. Which is nice to work with.