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Hello,

This things are manufactured with all of the Rostock MAX V2, injection molding the same. So, unless they change, this won't. It's not a 1,2,3,4 process but, should be allot easier than the start numbers they give you in the book.

Screw in your end stop screws to less than 1/4 inch high from the cheapskate. Then set your "Horizontal Radius" to 129.32 in the EEPROM Settings. If you start with these number, the first time through, there'll a few turns of each end stop screw. But, once you have it right, it's all 1/8th turn and 1/16th turns to pin it down through the next two or three cycles.

Then follow the previous instructions with the 4 GCode Scripts. It should amount to 1, adjust end stop screw, [HOME], paper friction test, 1, adjust end stop screw, [HOME], paper friction test, 1, adjust end stop screw, [HOME], paper friction test, 1, adjust end stop screw, [HOME], paper friction test, 2, adjust end stop screw, [HOME], paper friction test, 2, adjust end stop screw, [HOME], paper friction test, 2, adjust end stop screw, [HOME], paper friction test, 2, adjust end stop screw, [HOME], paper friction test, 3, adjust end stop screw, [HOME], paper friction test, 3, adjust end stop screw, [HOME], paper friction test, 3, adjust end stop screw, [HOME], paper friction test, 3, adjust end stop screw, [HOME], paper friction test, to get the friction right between the hotend and paper and then 4 should be correct. If the friction isn't exactly the same for the first three scripts, adjust -/+ .01 to raise or lower the hotend, and repeat the above procedure.

Unless, SeeMeCNC, changes the arms, universal joints on the cheapskates, or carriage's dimensions, these should be very close to the same for any Rostock MAX V2.

My first time through following the Assembly Manual, resulted in a steep concave, I pushed my Horizontal Radius, all the way to 280, and then the GCode Scripts 1, 2, and 3 stopped working. No matter how that's suppose to lower the print head, it doesn't do it by itself. I didn't finish reading the instructions and make it to the flow chart, and actually took 8 hours to adjust the stupid thing, reinventing the wheel. When I finished adjusting it, I scrolled down to see the flow chart, and realized that the geometry for any machine of this type is so close to the same, you could start with better numbers, and end stop screw starting depths, too keep the hotend from hitting the glass.

Flavored Coffee wrote: I didn't finish reading the instructions and make it to the flow chart, and actually took 8 hours to adjust the stupid thing, reinventing the wheel.

This is the relevant part of this message.

1 hour when I put together my v1 (and before there was an upgrade to Repetier-Firmware it was even harder).

After I designed and installed magnetic arms and a new effector platform? Less than an hour.

RTFM. Then RTFM again.

Yup.

So you couldn't be bothered reading the manual - in too much of a hurry, or you knew better. Either way. And now you've blown a day learning what took 5 minutes to read and under an hour to do for the rest of us.

:golf claps:

Well played, champ.

All sarcasm and golf claps aside, this advice (starting with 129.32 instead of the default) saved me from a similar runaway calibration hell that was taking hours and seemingly getting worse. I had read (and reread) that portion of the manual several times and couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong. Luckily, after a search on these forums, I found this post and tried restarting the calibration process with 129.32 and it converged within 15 minutes.

With all due respect, I think you guys unfairly focused on the wrong part of his post, which you then also decided to take out of context. He DID NOT say that he skipped over the calibration process or that he didn't read the manual. Maybe your time dealing with nubies has given you a bias? Personally, I think this information should be included in the manual, because if it had been, I would have read it... in the manual.

Thank you for posting this "Flavored Coffee". I appreciated it.

mrmichalrb wrote:All sarcasm and golf claps aside, this advice (starting with 129.32 instead of the default) saved me from a similar runaway calibration hell that was taking hours and seemingly getting worse. I had read (and reread) that portion of the manual several times and couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong. Luckily, after a search on these forums, I found this post and tried restarting the calibration process with 129.32 and it converged within 15 minutes.

With all due respect, I think you guys unfairly focused on the wrong part of his post, which you then also decided to take out of context. He DID NOT say that he skipped over the calibration process or that he didn't read the manual. Maybe your time dealing with nubies has given you a bias? Personally, I think this information should be included in the manual, because if it had been, I would have read it... in the manual.

Thank you for posting this "Flavored Coffee". I appreciated it.

Gene's manual has a simple flow chart for adjusting the horizontal radius. Its very simple, if the hotend is too high off the bed, it needs to move down, so you raise the value. If its too low then you need to lower the value. http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax ... dition.pdf page 239-240. Very simple and hundreds of people have used this manual without issue. I would guess that your printer and Coffee's printer happen to have relatively similar geometry in relation to most other printers. The reason the value is set to 130 by default is because if it were a "perfect" machine (so to speak) the horizontal radius would be exactly 130.

Their sarcasm and golf claps aren't without a reason. Flavored Coffee has been around for a while, and most of us "veterans" have some experience with them. Just do a quick search of all their posts, most of the "content" isn't even worth the bytes it takes up in storage. I promise their reactions aren't due to this person being "new", both of the above posters are quite friendly (though starfish is quite sarcastic at times ).

Nylocke wrote: Very simple and thousands of people have used this manual without issue.

Fixed that for you.

g.

I'm using a horizontal radius of 130.2... but isn't the theoretical value 126.85? That's what's in the firmware by default... I'm curious as to what the actual number is...

bot wrote:I'm using a horizontal radius of 130.2... but isn't the theoretical value 126.85? That's what's in the firmware by default... I'm curious as to what the actual number is...

It will vary by machine build and the flatness of your build plate. That's why it's a manual calibration step. I *think* that 130 is the actual measurement on the drawings, but I'm not sure.