Not good could have been worse

tc3jg · Post by **tc3jg** » Wed Oct 16, 2013 2:00 am

Hey everyone if I'm looking for this the green connector on the board what would I search? I found this after looking to hook up a bed fan.

[img]http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... 80e2e4.jpg[/img]

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Wed Oct 16, 2013 6:07 am

Contact [email protected]
Ultimachine.com is the producer of the Rambo boards and should be able to source the parts.
Send them a picture of the burnt connector and ask how to get one.
You may have to cut the connector with a dremel tool to get it off because it is difficult to desolder
multipin connectors. Also ask if they can repair the board.

Eric · Post by **Eric** » Wed Oct 16, 2013 7:34 am

Do you have an obvious cause as to why it melted and burned? Were you using the heat2 terminals?

You're the second one with that exact problem that's posted here. The first is here: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 659#p18646

For a generic part that should work, searching for "pcb screw terminal block" should give you a good starting point.

Jimustanguitar · Post by **Jimustanguitar** » Wed Oct 16, 2013 8:06 am

These connectors are also commonly called "captive screw" connectors. That might be a useful search phrase.

Post by **geneb** » Wed Oct 16, 2013 9:30 am

That happens when the connection is very poor. A contributing factor could be if the wire was coated with solder before inserting into the connector. The solder will reduce the surface area of contact, increasing the resistance of the connection and causing it to heat up and burn the shell.

The connector SHOULD NOT BE DREMELED OFF! The whole connector bank should be properly desoldered and the burned segment replaced. They're snap-together in blocks of two.

The thought of someone cutting off the connector with power tool just makes me want to throw things. Fix it right or don't fix it at all.

g.

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Wed Oct 16, 2013 10:49 am

geneb wrote:That happens when the connection is very poor. A contributing factor could be if the wire was coated with solder before inserting into the connector. The solder will reduce the surface area of contact, increasing the resistance of the connection and causing it to heat up and burn the shell.

The connector SHOULD NOT BE DREMELED OFF! The whole connector bank should be properly desoldered and the burned segment replaced. They're snap-together in blocks of two.

The thought of someone cutting off the connector with power tool just makes me want to throw things. Fix it right or don't fix it at all.

g.

A dremel tool can make it easier to get them out, once they are out they are then properly soldered back in, replacing each bank of two. There are different ways to do things and one man's right is not necessarily the same as another. As long as the end result is the banks are soldered back in as they came from the factory how to get them out is not that important.
As far as throwing things I have too much respect for you to do that.

Post by **geneb** » Wed Oct 16, 2013 10:56 am

[img]http://stream1.gifsoup.com/view/212691/ ... -sam-o.gif[/img]

NO. No, no no, no no no no no, no no - no. No!

A Dremel tool is NOT THE RIGHT TOOL FOR THIS TASK. NEVER WAS, NEVER WILL BE.

If you have a bad connector problem and you pick up a Dremel tool to fix it, you now have TWO problems.

Bad Eaglezsoar, no donut!

g.

lordbinky · Post by **lordbinky** » Wed Oct 16, 2013 1:19 pm

Anything works if you got teh Skillz
*Picks up circular saw* Let's do this.

Post by **geneb** » Wed Oct 16, 2013 3:45 pm

/me dives off stage

tc3jg · Post by **tc3jg** » Wed Oct 16, 2013 9:31 pm

Eaglzoar- I sent Ultimaker an email asking what my next steps should be hopefully I will get a reply from them tomorrow.

Eric- It could have been a couple things, one I believe I may have been using to big a gauge wire (combined speaker wire). Or the two connections some how touched.
Three could it be that the bed is working to hard to get to 120 degrees? I usually have to place a towel on it for it to get up to temp.
Yes I was using the heat terminal next to the burnt one. Then I removed the burnt connector when unscrewed the charred wires.

Geneb no solder on the wire ends just twisted speaker wire. They are not snaptogether blocks but all one block. I did a search and found some just not sure they are the same size even though they are green in color.

Thanks everyone hopefully I can get this resolved soon

Post by **geneb** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 10:18 am

I'm almost positive they're snap-together segments. The seams are very hard to spot.

Why on earth are you heating to 120?

g.

lordbinky · Post by **lordbinky** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 3:23 pm

geneb wrote:Why on earth are you heating to 120?

g.

Because it didn't make it to 130.

Post by **geneb** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 4:20 pm

*sigh*

Just FYI. I print _perfect_ ABS parts at 80C on glass that's been sprayed lightly with AquaNet #3 hairspray.

g.

edward · Post by **edward** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 7:28 pm

Gosh Mr. Gene! I wish I could be as cool as you!

Post by **geneb** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 10:42 pm

Indeed.

g.

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 8:54 am

NO. No, no no, no no no no no, no no - no. No!

A Dremel tool is NOT THE RIGHT TOOL FOR THIS TASK. NEVER WAS, NEVER WILL BE.

If you have a bad connector problem and you pick up a Dremel tool to fix it, you now have TWO problems.

Bad Eaglezsoar, no donut!

g.[/quote]

WHAAAAAAAAAAAA! I Want my DONUT!

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 9:05 am

No more mention of Dremel Tools, although it would be cool to see Gene launching his glasses across the shop.
What about wrapping M80's around the board to get the terminal strip off?

Just kidding Gene! Don't start throwing things! Look out, here it comes!. BAM! a wrench off the right upright!

No more mention of unique ways to do things, I can do them but I agree that I should NOT be telling our users to do things
that are not part of the established norm so now I will have to behave. Watch me closely though!

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 11:10 am

[quote="edward"]Gosh Mr. Gene! I wish I could be as cool as you!

Edward, I have a few questions about the Belt Tensioners that you designed and put on Thingiverse.
What method of contact would you prefer, your website, a PM here or what. If you prefer no contact
that's okay also.

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 11:46 am

geneb wrote:*sigh*

Just FYI. I print _perfect_ ABS parts at 80C on glass that's been sprayed lightly with AquaNet #3 hairspray.

g.

I use the hairspray also but it can be a pain to scrape off the glass when it drys and gets too thick.
What do you use to remove the coating of hairspray?

Post by **geneb** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 12:18 pm

I just run the glass through the dishwasher.

g.

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 12:30 pm

geneb wrote:I just run the glass through the dishwasher.

g.

Darn, I wish I had thought of that!
Dishwasher it is, and thanks for a great idea!

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 12:34 pm

lordbinky wrote:
geneb wrote:Why on earth are you heating to 120?

g.
Because it didn't make it to 130.

You are TOO funny! I enjoy your posts because I can get a chuckle out some of them.

Post by **geneb** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 4:56 pm

It's a good idea to keep two glass plates handy - that way you can be printing on one while the other is in the wash.

g.

bubbasnow · Post by **bubbasnow** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 8:16 pm

geneb wrote:It's a good idea to keep two glass plates handy - that way you can be printing on one while the other is in the wash.

g.

wash and dry it by hand it takes 30 seconds !!

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 11:36 pm

bubbasnow wrote:
geneb wrote:It's a good idea to keep two glass plates handy - that way you can be printing on one while the other is in the wash.

g.

wash and dry it by hand it takes 30 seconds !!

BY HAND!!!
Not when I can have a machine do it, it's not laziness it's the love for the mechanized world!
Actually Bubbasnow your idea makes sense but I'm not going to admit it!

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