Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

need some help ! new at this game hardware guy, not a software guy
just finished building r-max
have download usb driver, repetier no problem
need help in down loading firmware to printer,
thx
joe

Have you installed Arduino 1.0.3 IDE yet?

Do if not, then you need to configure it to connect to your RAMBo (assuming Rambo).

Then launch Arduino and configure (menu bar items)

Tools->Board->Arduino Mega 2560 or Mega ADK
Tools->Serial Port-> your pprt (depends on your OS and other factors)

Thank you so much mr. hackney i'm starting to get a feel for it.
got the rambo to start blinking through the arduino / sketch
i feel stupid asking this, but how do I launch the arduino and what files do i send ?
i'm sure i can confiqure once installed.
cheers
joe

Joe, the Arduino IDE is a programming environment where you can edit source code and upload it to Arduino-based electronics platform. The RAMBo controller is based on this platform but adds extra capabilities to control stepper motors, heated extruders and beds and measure temperatures (among other things). Once you have installed the IDE (get it from the link above) you run it on your computer like you would any software application.

Here's what it looks like with the Repetier firmware opened:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v72 ... 3392-4.jpg[/img]

From here, you need to make sure the board and serial port are configured as per my earlier post. Then you click the Upload button (the 32nd from the left that looks like a right-facing arrow). This compiles the firmware and uploads it to your RAMBo board - ready to use.

great info !
I see the problem that i have.
it looks like you have placed or combined the repetier w/ arduino software
arduino is back on line, down for a couple days for maintenance, i'll see if they have a tutorial on combining the two
do you have any suggestions ?
my back ground is aerospace/prototype/aviation
i use soildworks
cheers
joe

Think of the Arduino IDE like a word processor. You can open text files in the word processor to edit them. Similar with the Arduino IDE, you open the Repetier source files to edit and compile and then upload them.

http://www.arduino.cc is working fine, there are tutorials and you can download the IDE there.

got it running !
will keep you posted
joe

greeting
i'm also not able to get my bed temps over 75c
have been pouring over all conversations out there and it
looks like i need to boost my power.
your running the sopudar 12v 30amp, were can i order one or is there something better
the one in the machine is 450 atx dims are 5.75l x 6h x 3.75w
cheers
joe

Take a look at http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1181 .
It seems that a 12V supply is not sufficient for the onyx.

what power supply are you going to upgrade to also fit the max ?
cheers
joe

Hey guys, you are of course welcome to go off and experiment on your own. I have already ordered and am expecting the 24V 16Amp power supply to arrive next week. I am also checking with Steve to see if the Onyx can handle the higher current. If it can't that's the end of the line for Onyx in terms of adding more juice. I am running mine at 15 volts as it turns out and that seems to be within the margin for safety. How much higher we can go, I don't know yet but will let everyone know when I find out!

cheers,
Michael

Heya Mike!

The Onyx is ~1.1 to 1.2 Ohms, and was designed for 12V, but if you have a 24v psu, guess what! The firmware can PWM control the mosfet for the heated bed!!!!!! So, if you cut down your duty cycle, you can go up to about 15 amps of current. As for the bed surviving, I think it'll do just fine, my concern is if you draw more than the fuse on the Rambo, which if you have an earlier 1.0~ board, it's the yellow polyfuse, good for only about 15 amps, or later 1.1+ has an automotive fuse. It's designed to take 15 amps all day, and so is the board.


Let us know how it works!



Remember, Safety Third!


Johnoly

Thanks John. I exchanged emails with Steve the other day to sanity check this! I think I'm good to go to try this. I have the 1.1 RAMBo so I'm covered on that front.

I certainly will post results!

cheers,
Michael

do all new rostock kits ship with rambo 1.1?

I would think so. Once they ran out of 1.0 RAMBos their next order was probably all 1.1s. Even the other resellers are all selling the 1.1 now.

makerof3d wrote:what power supply are you going to upgrade to also fit the max ?
cheers
joe

Its not here yet, but it should look like this: I'll have to exchange this fuse anyway, because it's only designed for 16V.

johnoly99 wrote:The firmware can PWM control the mosfet for the heated bed!

Hi John!
Have you found the position in the software to adjust the PWM frequency?
It's so slow, that I doubt it's Software-PWM, but anyway..

aehM Key, yep. If you're using the Marlin firmware, look in configuration.h lines 91-94, and you will see this

// If your bed has low resistance e.g. .6 ohm and throws the fuse you can duty cycle it to reduce the
// average current. The value should be an integer and the heat bed will be turned on for 1 interval of
// HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER intervals.
//#define HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER 4

Uncomment the #define HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER 4 and adjust as neccesary, YMMV and enjoy!

John

Thanks, but I use the Repetier Firmware..

aehM_Key wrote:Thanks, but I use the Repetier Firmware..

Repetier only supports Bang/Bang for a heated bed the only control you have is how often it turns the bed on or off
#define HEATED_BED_SET_INTERVAL 5000

Thank you!

johnoly99 wrote:Heya Mike!

The Onyx is ~1.1 to 1.2 Ohms, and was designed for 12V, but if you have a 24v psu, guess what! The firmware can PWM control the mosfet for the heated bed!!!!!! So, if you cut down your duty cycle, you can go up to about 15 amps of current. As for the bed surviving, I think it'll do just fine, my concern is if you draw more than the fuse on the Rambo, which if you have an earlier 1.0~ board, it's the yellow polyfuse, good for only about 15 amps, or later 1.1+ has an automotive fuse. It's designed to take 15 amps all day, and so is the board.


Let us know how it works!



Remember, Safety Third!


Johnoly

John, I looked up the mosfets on the heater bed circuit, its rated for 60v and 89Amps from what I gather http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet ... 0-60YS.pdf. (part number taken from schematic on wiki page)

Any reason I couldn't just put a bigger fuse in place of the 15amp fuse?
Maybe the limiting factor is the current carrying ability of the heat bed connectors that come on the board? or is there something else that limits this to 15amps?

Could I replace the fuse with say a 25amp resettable fuse? Directly solder 10awg or 12awg wire to the terminals of the head bed circuit (vs using the factory connectors). So I could actually run 24v power supply to the heat bed and still be able to use the full current of 20 or so amps that the heat bed may require at this voltage.

what do you think?

I'm not 100% sure, maybe check with johnnyr @ UltiMachine, but I 'think' the limiting factor is the traces/RAMBo board itself is rated for 15 amps. You could always easily use the rambo to trigger a solid state relay that can carry a TON more current if needed, just use the rambo's output to turn on/off the SSR

Polygonhell wrote:Repetier only supports Bang/Bang for a heated bed the only control you have is how often it turns the bed on or off
#define HEATED_BED_SET_INTERVAL 5000

Hm, I think Repetier is working with PID and PWM. Still searching for the position to change the frequency..

aehM_Key wrote:

Polygonhell wrote:Repetier only supports Bang/Bang for a heated bed the only control you have is how often it turns the bed on or off
#define HEATED_BED_SET_INTERVAL 5000

Hm, I think Repetier is working with PID and PWM. Still searching for the position to change the frequency..

yes your right, I swear I looked in the headers and only saw the one value, but looking at the EEPROM settings there are PID settings for the heated bed.