Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

[img]https://i.redd.it/nu7amaq0bj9y.jpg[/img]

I've been trying to get a decent print from my Rostock Max v2, using a spool of clear PETG. The stringing is pretty bad, and the wall corners are very bad (the blue highlights in the benchy). In an effort to fight stringing I upped the retration a bit from defaults, and dropped the temp down to 240 as per the range in http://airwolf3d.com/2015/12/05/3d-prin ... nd-tricks/

This one was printed with support material, cut with Simplify3D, .2 layer height, all default settings for retraction and fan. Rostock Max v2, upgrade E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd Full Kit 1.75mm Universal, .4mm nozzle. SainSmart PETG 3D Printers Filament.

I don't mind the stringing, I can pull those off. I slightly mind the blobs (bow of ship) and really mind the edges, when I try to print a fidget w/ hinges it completely binds up. You can see near the top-right of the blue area the edge is ok, but then as you go down from there, it looks really bad.
Open to any tips, will post follow-ups as it improves!

If you have S3D, try enabling "Coast at End", maybe 0.5mm, and align seams near the back under the "Layer" tab.'

Try printing at a lower speed, too. See if any of those help.

What do you think of "Coast to End" vs "Wipe"?

I've used Coast with good result and haven't needed to try Wipe yet, but try them both as they could both have a positive effect.

Temps are also so variable between different thermistor setups that you may be able to dial the nozzle temp back still.

When trying to fix a problem like this, approach it patiently and by changing one variable at a time. It's frustratingly slow but the results are worth it.

AHHA!

I didn't have any retraction. Adding 8mm of retraction helped a HUGE amount.

benjaminhill wrote:AHHA!

I didn't have any retraction. Adding 8mm of retraction helped a HUGE amount.

I'm going to ruin things for you momentarily by pointing out that more than ~2.5mm of retraction greatly increases the likeliness of a jam with an E3D hotend, since the E3D doesn't have nearly as long a PTFE liner as the old stock hotend, and thus can have plastic grab the metal walls and the junction between the nozzle and heatbreak more easily. I would suggest dropping it down to around that level, playing with the speed, and some other things to see how well it works.