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Hello All,

I am trying to calibrate to print my several PETG rolls. However I have an issue I cannot with random globbing in and on my prints. The following are several attempted prints with slightly tweaked settings to see if the globbing would go away with no luck.
Here are the settings I am currently using: Hope someone has a golden tip on solving this issue.

I use a 255C hot end for PETG but you may not want to do that depending on what hot end you're running.

IMBoring25 wrote:I use a 255C hot end for PETG but you may not want to do that depending on what hot end you're running.

I tried playing with the temperature but that doesn't solve the zits/globbing.

I can't tell if you are using MatteSlice or Cura, if MS switch to Cura. If Cura, seriously consider KISS. KISS has a "crossover" perimeter start/stop path that really cuts down on zits. It's the only slicer that does this.

mhackney wrote:I can't tell if you are using MatteSlice or Cura, if MS switch to Cura. If Cura, seriously consider KISS. KISS has a "crossover" perimeter start/stop path that really cuts down on zits. It's the only slicer that does this.

Hello,

KISSslicer is confusing. I am currently playing with the settings/files you provided but without a good guide (not the PDF) its poke and prod.

wish me luck.

Try youtube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVpzIj3G6ow

morgandc wrote:Try youtube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVpzIj3G6ow

Hello there,

Just saw that video. Beat you to it.

The thing that adds to the confusion for me is the terminology I am used to is not mentioned in KISSlicer. So it makes it a little hard to understand. I'll keep looking.

Right now I am trying to find:
How to adjust the skirt amount and the skirt offset to allow the nozzle to prime properly. Mr. Hackney's file is too fast for my nozzle to prime so the bottom layer is garbage.

Hello,

Here is the test cube that I printed using KISSlicer. It has some weird artifacts on two of the four corners and the bottom layer looks bad due to not being primed enough. (the top of the image is actually the bottom layer)
In the slicer I noticed that when I look at the layers. I see the following which seem to line up with the weird artifacts I see in the cube.

Are you talking about the upper right corner on the top image and the lower right corner on the lower? That is KISS' method for preventing perimeter blobs. You can control that on the Style tab with the Depth and the Seam Hiding Gap settings. Jitter will randomize where seams are. The PDF manual file I've linked to show how to use these with examples. Page 15 in my copy of the manual. You can turn it off, make it bigger, smaller, etc.

You can also control the print speed with the Slider on this tab. It scales all of your speeds as you adjust it. The resulting speeds are displayed on the right lower corner of the window.

javiercordero20 wrote: KISSslicer is confusing. I am currently playing with the settings/files you provided but without a good guide (not the PDF) its poke and prod.

If you are refering to the quick-start guide on the web-site, you might like to learn that there is a much fuller and up-to-date draft manual on their forum.

http://www.kisslicertalk.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=332

Simplify3d is what I use and swear by! It's worth the price as I have actually saved a fortune in filament due to the settings and tweaks allowed through the program. You get what you pay for.

I recommend you read their license agreement then. You do not own s3d and they can revoke your license at any time for any reason. And you are in violation if you post your gcode or factory files. S3d is not a magic bullet. And it has some significant path layout issues that affect my work. Glad it works for you but you are doing the community a disservice by promoting a product with one of the most restrictive licenses imaginable. And they have and do revoke licenses. PM me for details if you are curious.

IMBoring25 wrote:I use a 255C hot end for PETG but you may not want to do that depending on what hot end you're running.

Hello there,

Now that I got PLA printing nicely and got many prints done so far. I am back to fighting with PETG. Could you share your settings so I can use them as a guide to calibrate my filament?

Lately I have been having a lot of success with KISSlicer. I think I got the hang of it for most prints. It does have limitations which i hope they put in future versions. I am using mhackney's profile for the Rostock v3 and so far I have printed Hatchbox regular PLA and Wood PLA without any major issues. I now hope to find the right settings to print PETG so I can make use of the filament rolls I have.

What hot end are you running?

IMBoring25 wrote:What hot end are you running?

The stock hotend that comes with the Rostock Max V3.

OK, that one can do 255. Other than 255 hot end and 70 bed, I'm just using my standard E3D ABS settings. 2mm, 10mm/s retracts, which I believe are also appropriate for the HE280, if you're using something else.

IMBoring25 wrote:OK, that one can do 255. Other than 255 hot end and 70 bed, I'm just using my standard E3D ABS settings. 2mm, 10mm/s retracts, which I believe are also appropriate for the HE280, if you're using something else.

What about your extrusion multiplier?

I've never touched that.

Try Step 1 of my delta arm length calibration routine: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1439048

It will help you get the filament extrusion rate dialed in perfectly. Do the rest of the calibration as well, if you want. The extrusion rate is particularly important because you do NOT want to deposit extra filament. Some people recommend taking the extrusion multiplier down (i.e., under-extruding) but I don't have to under-extrude to get good results, and I am suspicious that under-extruding may cause curling, which will encourage blobs.

Also, you may want to consider upgrading your heater block and nozzle to E3D's new copper-chrome versions, which they released last month. I am definitely getting better results with them. Smoother top surfaces, and far less build-up on the hot end. It isn't zero build-up, but it is a lot better than I got before with PETG.

Be careful about the infill amount. I kept using 16.7% (which is what I use with PLA) and if the part was particularly large, I would come back to a complete mess. It goes better at or above 25%. Otherwise, it will curl up sooner or later, and the nozzle will run into it.