Another rostock max build

[Av8r RC]

Your local hobby shop should have something like that. You should be able to find something like that in the cars department. And you shouldn't have to worry about the length changing. I have an RC truck that can easily go 60+ mph, and have thrashed the crap out of it without the lengths of the turnbuckles changing. I usually break or bend one.

If your in Orlando, I'll guarantee that Graves RC will have what your looking for.

[cambo3d]

looks like its gonna be a no go, on my turnbuckle belt tensioner idea. If there was more room between the big hole at the top and the slot; It would work, but there's not enough spacing between the two to make it adjustable, even for the smallest turnbuckle so i'm gonna have to rethink this idea a little bit.

here is the other idea, the adjusting screw would go through a rod, in the top holes. I might use 4-40 studs instead of screws and have an adjusting nut at the top.

[Flateric]

I was thinking the exact same setup and I figured I could always put a notch in the top radius of the top and run a bar across between the two.

[Eaglezsoar]

It looks like the one GabrielK used should work.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=1169

[cambo3d]

It looks like the one GabrielK used should work.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=1169

I was trying make this plug and play. I didn't want to have to machine or make parts.

[Eaglezsoar]

It looks like the one GabrielK used should work.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=1169

I was trying make this plug and play. I didn't want to have to machine or make parts.

Looks like the perfect kit for Mhackney to build and sell on his site...hint.
Carl

[cambo3d]

It looks like the one GabrielK used should work.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=1169

I was trying make this plug and play. I didn't want to have to machine or make parts.

Looks like the perfect kit for Mhackney to build and sell on his site...hint.
Carl

yea, that would save me a lot of trouble.

[Eaglezsoar]

Hey Michael, you have two potential customers, bet you could sell a hundred of these and each set up arms need them.
Just think of the potential. By the way, we need them tomorrow but Friday would be okay.

[Flateric]

Something along these lines I was thinking.

[cambo3d]

where did you get the rod for the top? That's pretty much what I was thinking but I was trying not to cut and drill anything.

[Eaglezsoar]

And part number and source of the bottom part.

[Flateric]

I just happened to have a perfect sized bit of aluminium round stock sitting here (leterally right beside me) and thought I'd drill a quick hole in it a see how it worked real quick.

Hobby store will have this for sure in their round stock selections.

[Flateric]

The bottom dogbone end is from their RC car area and can be had in a bag of 10 of them for around 10 bucks I think. I also had it just laying here.

[Eaglezsoar]

I would appreciate it if you can find the part # for that dogbone part, I have no idea how long to make it and would appreciate it.
My printer assembly is not that far along so I can't measure what it should be as far as length and thread size.

[Flateric]

I'll do it if I can, but I had long ago throw out the packaging and sorted these into my bin system here.

I'll have a look and get back to you shortly.

[cambo3d]

I would appreciate it if you can find the part # for that dogbone part, I have no idea how long to make it and would appreciate it.
My printer assembly is not that far along so I can't measure what it should be as far as length and thread size.

those are actually ball links or tie rod ends. they come in different sizes. the ball links can be popped out like i did to fit 6-32 stock screw.
this one is sized for a 4-40 turnbuckle or screw. They also make a heavy duty version like flateric's

Hardware store should stock some 5/16 diameter steel rod to use as the top rod. brb. lol

[mhackney]

Hey guys. I have been working on a belt tensioner for a while with the thought of offering them. The challenge is making them cost effective. The ball links are $1-$2 each and you need 6 of them plus the other hardware. I am looking at alternatives and talking to a couple of companies about a large order to get the price down.

Cheers,
Michael

[Eaglezsoar]

Hey guys. I have been working on a belt tensioner for a while with the thought of offering them. The challenge is making them cost effective. The ball links are $1-$2 each and you need 6 of them plus the other hardware. I am looking at alternatives and talking to a couple of companies about a large order to get the price down.

Cheers,
Michael

No hurry, tomorrow will be okay.
Carl

[cambo3d]

well I made some progress on my idea, I did manage to get some 5/16" diameter steel rod from home depot. I was able to cut it down and drill holes. here is the prototype..

I made a jig to somewhat accurately drill the holes. shown in the photo below, put the rod in the 5/16" hole in the side.
Then drill the smaller holes from the top. Once you drill one of the top smaller holes, put a matching size screw to hold the rod in its place then drill the other hole. That keeps it somewhat lined up. works good.

tomorrow i'll make the rest of the tensioners, almost done with the build.

edit: this idea was not used because I couldn't accurately drill the holes into the rods, even with the makeshift jig i made. I'm currently working a new angle on this. check for it in the following posts

[Eaglezsoar]

Are those 4-40 screws going into the rod ends?

[cambo3d]

Are those 4-40 screws going into the rod ends?

yes, i had a bunch of those lying around, but I found some aluminum rod ends i'm going to try out and post and update if it works out.

[dbarrans]

Instead of a rod end, why not an L-shaped thick sheet metal piece? Mount it upside down, with a hole in each end. The screw for the idler goes through the hole in the top of the L (on the bottom, since it's upside down), and the adjustment screw goes through the base of the L (on the top) into a nylon-insert locknut. That hole is close enough to the bend in the L to keep the locknut from turning while you turn the adjustment screw.

- dan

[cambo3d]

that would work too. This was just another way. when I first started this was trying to make it out of off the shelf parts that didn't require any machining. I'm still trying to do that. Just trying to find the parts that fit, is the hard part.

if you got ideas share em.

[dbarrans]

Here's a sketch, if I can attach it right.

- dan

Here's a sketch.

[dbarrans]

The tension on the L might want to unbend it. Maybe an upside-down U in its place with the locknut in the base of the U (at the top) would work better.

- dan