Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
Yrs, did the connectors myself....So I have no excuses.
- Eaglezsoar
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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
You do not need to make excuses, you are the same as the rest of us - human and we all make mistakes but some will never admit it.
It takes courage to admit you made a mistake on a public forum - my hat is off to you!
It takes courage to admit you made a mistake on a public forum - my hat is off to you!
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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
Hey, no judgment. I just connected all the wires to my board last night and thought the same thing. "Oh, I can poke my multimeter probes into those little openings." Guess I won't be relying on that!Aflac wrote:Yrs, did the connectors myself....So I have no excuses.
Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
bradjshannon wrote:Hey, no judgment. I just connected all the wires to my board last night and thought the same thing. "Oh, I can poke my multimeter probes into those little openings." Guess I won't be relying on that!Aflac wrote:Yrs, did the connectors myself....So I have no excuses.
That's actually the main reason I posted about it, let someone else learn from my mistakes, makes my mistakes worth more that way.
Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
I think the thing I am most happy about is getting the printer running before my Oculus Rift arrives, start a print then spend some time in VR. If i had to choose between getting the printer working and testing the new VR it would have been an interesting battle.
Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
Should I design something fancier or stick with my getto zip tied layer fan...
Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
What does your effector look like? I have the full size berrybot effector and made some fan holders that work with the holes.
I've attached an STL that has two parts in one -- you'll have to separate the shells using meshmixer or the like.
I've attached an STL that has two parts in one -- you'll have to separate the shells using meshmixer or the like.
*not actually a robot
Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
Still need to build an enclosure for ur, but overall it's coming along nicely. The table top is held on by magnets so it's easy access to get in to work on things
Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
There is also no place that the printer actually touches the wood. It's connected to a phenolic that is good for high heat and electrical uses
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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
Aflac, what size arms did you use if you remember?
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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
330.77mmEaglezsoar wrote:Aflac, what size arms did you use if you remember?
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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
Please figure out some way to integrate these technologies. It's so unnecessary that someone on the internet has to do it.Aflac wrote:I think the thing I am most happy about is getting the printer running before my Oculus Rift arrives, start a print then spend some time in VR. If i had to choose between getting the printer working and testing the new VR it would have been an interesting battle.
edit: VR/AR printer interface?!
holy crap-- augmented reality, so when you look at your printer it displays the uncompleted portion of a print as wireframe
Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
or when you have it in your slicer it shows it sitting on the build plate so you could see how things are arranged and make sure they fit...and mostly just would look coolbradjshannon wrote:Please figure out some way to integrate these technologies. It's so unnecessary that someone on the internet has to do it.Aflac wrote:I think the thing I am most happy about is getting the printer running before my Oculus Rift arrives, start a print then spend some time in VR. If i had to choose between getting the printer working and testing the new VR it would have been an interesting battle.
edit: VR/AR printer interface?!
holy crap-- augmented reality, so when you look at your printer it displays the uncompleted portion of a print as wireframe
Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
Ok, time for my next problem.
I have the prints printing beautifully....unless I need retraction. For some reason Emmett time it retracts it had a delay before it starts extending again, leaving a gap. Sometimes the delay is really short, sometimes it's fairly long. In a 50mm radius circle it's sometimes not extending for the first halfway around the circle. And it is not a consistent amount.
It's almost like the extruder is losing steps on the extend after the retract, after it starts again it works just fine until the next retract.
Anyone have any ideas?
I have the prints printing beautifully....unless I need retraction. For some reason Emmett time it retracts it had a delay before it starts extending again, leaving a gap. Sometimes the delay is really short, sometimes it's fairly long. In a 50mm radius circle it's sometimes not extending for the first halfway around the circle. And it is not a consistent amount.
It's almost like the extruder is losing steps on the extend after the retract, after it starts again it works just fine until the next retract.
Anyone have any ideas?
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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
What is the length of retraction and speed of retraction that you are using?
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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
I am using CURA to slice and the retraction settings i can find are only min travel combing min extrusion and z hop, i can not find anything about retraction distance nor speed. so i have no idea what the answer to that would be. I dont see anything in my config file about it either.Eaglezsoar wrote:What is the length of retraction and speed of retraction that you are using?
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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
Temporarily use a different slicer and see if that fixes the problem.Aflac wrote:I am using CURA to slice and the retraction settings i can find are only min travel combing min extrusion and z hop, i can not find anything about retraction distance nor speed. so i have no idea what the answer to that would be. I dont see anything in my config file about it either.Eaglezsoar wrote:What is the length of retraction and speed of retraction that you are using?
If it does perhaps there is a different version of Cura that you could use.
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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
On the Advanced Tab there is a Retraction panel near the top with Speed, Distance. Those are them.
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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
Thanks Michael.mhackney wrote:On the Advanced Tab there is a Retraction panel near the top with Speed, Distance. Those are them.
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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
There may also be extra retraction stuff in the "Expert Settings" window, under the Tools menu, I think?mhackney wrote:On the Advanced Tab there is a Retraction panel near the top with Speed, Distance. Those are them.
Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
wow, no idea how i missed that, i only looked at that tab like 40 times. but there it is right at the top. its set to 40 mm/s and 4.5mm retraction, should i try shorter and slower?mhackney wrote:On the Advanced Tab there is a Retraction panel near the top with Speed, Distance. Those are them.
Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
i changed it to 20 and 1, its still doing it, however the distance of the gap is a lot less now.
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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
Not sure what the proper values would be for the Prometheus, but I would try 5 for distance and 10 for speed. If someoneAflac wrote:i changed it to 20 and 1, its still doing it, however the distance of the gap is a lot less now.
is using the Prometheus would you provide the retraction settings you use.
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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
https://youtu.be/Ymelatu6GK8
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ymelatu6GK8[/youtube]
https://youtu.be/L_HBN1Pq1tM
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_HBN1Pq1tM[/youtube]
some time laps videos of some calibration prints. also ive never done video on here before, i hope it works.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ymelatu6GK8[/youtube]
https://youtu.be/L_HBN1Pq1tM
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_HBN1Pq1tM[/youtube]
some time laps videos of some calibration prints. also ive never done video on here before, i hope it works.
Last edited by Aflac on Sun Apr 10, 2016 2:28 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Going to Build using the Max Metal Frame...no kit
Depends on how you built the Prometheus:Eaglezsoar wrote:Not sure what the proper values would be for the Prometheus, but I would try 5 for distance and 10 for speed. If someoneAflac wrote:i changed it to 20 and 1, its still doing it, however the distance of the gap is a lot less now.
is using the Prometheus would you provide the retraction settings you use.
linkmanual wrote:Bowden Users: Keep in mind that the maximum retract length is proportional to the length of the TZ.
The max retract length can be approximated as follows:
Max Retract Length = TZ Length (e.g. a 2mm TZ means that the maximum retract length is also 2mm)
This is an important relation for bowden users to consider. If you retract longer than the TZ, molten plastic will be pulled into the Cold-Zone and will cool, fusing to the inside of the barrel and jamming the hot end. I recommend a 2 mm max retract and a short 2 mm TZ. However, a very long bowden tube may require longer retraction. If you have a geared extruder then you may be able to get away with a longer TZ of 4mm with 4 mm retractions, even with PLA.