Xnaron Printable Magnetic u-joint option for Rostock Max

[Flateric]

Also if Xnaron is busy feel free to ask me for help and assistance on this upgrade.

[Eaglezsoar]

Files are up here for the anxious. Write up will come later. We are in the process of buy a new place and a lot of stuff came up this weekend.

https://github.com/xnaron/Xnaron-Magnarms-for-Rostock

I have the files. I am willing to pay you for a fully assembled already complete kit. I can accomplish building it with the files you sent me, but I feel it's such a good upgrade that I want to pay you for your effort. If you ever have an assembled version, ready to just install, I will pay for it. I can send you cash in the mail of possible, and or check.

I agree 100%. I feel that xnaron should be paid for his efforts and I would certainly prefer to pay for a kit for that reason.

[Flateric]

I am certain a kit is on the horizon as he has stated his plan to produce a kit.

Be patient, he is just going to be a bit busy for the next bit it sounds like.

[Eaglezsoar]

I think that I speak for many of us. I am not in a particular hurry for the kit, it's just that I wanted to be sure a kit is planned to
be available in the future. It appears that this is the case so I will be patient.

[elqisqeyano]

Files are up here for the anxious. Write up will come later. We are in the process of buying a new place and a lot of stuff came up this weekend.

https://github.com/xnaron/Xnaron-Magnarms-for-Rostock

Can the effector handle the heat being made out of ABS Black?

well it depends where you mount the hot end... mine has a bottom shield made of wood that is also a fan mount. I think it would be fine without the wood shield. My jhead is mounted about 20mm below the effector and heat won't be an issue. If you try and stick the seemecnc hotend in the middle using the standoffs I think it would be a problem. If you bolt the seemecnc hot end to the effector without the standoffs I think it would be just fine.

Thank you, will keep those points in mind.

[xnaron]

Update on kits:

I've got a lot going on in my life right now with a move to a new property. At this time a kit won't be coming any time soon. If you are anxious to do this mod the best bet will be for you to follow the instructions and parts list on the first page of this thread. I will be making updates there as time permits. I will also be releasing the openscad files soon.

Brendin

[Eaglezsoar]

Update on kits:

I've got a lot going on in my life right now with a move to a new property. At this time a kit won't be coming any time soon. If you are anxious to do this mod the best bet will be for you to follow the instructions and parts list on the first page of this thread. I will be making updates there as time permits. I will also be releasing the openscad files soon.

Brendin

I have the problem where my local Home Depot doesn't seem to carry the "cup" dohickeys and I didn't see them under printable files.
And I certainly understand that a new move is going to occupy you for a long time, a move ranks right up there on the stress-a-meter.

[xnaron]

Update on kits:

I've got a lot going on in my life right now with a move to a new property. At this time a kit won't be coming any time soon. If you are anxious to do this mod the best bet will be for you to follow the instructions and parts list on the first page of this thread. I will be making updates there as time permits. I will also be releasing the openscad files soon.

Brendin

I have the problem where my local Home Depot doesn't seem to carry the "cup" dohickeys and I didn't see them under printable files.
And I certainly understand that a new move is going to occupy you for a long time, a move ranks right up there on the stress-a-meter.

Oh I didn't use the cup things...I designed a printable component for those. It is in the github They are called Boom_end_v2.stl.

[Broose]

Oh I didn't use the cup things...I designed a printable component for those. It is in the github They are called Boom_end_v2.stl.

Did you do any operations to the boom ends to clean up where they touch the balls, or did you use them as printed?

[xnaron]

Oh I didn't use the cup things...I designed a printable component for those. It is in the github They are called Boom_end_v2.stl.

Did you do any operations to the boom ends to clean up where they touch the balls, or did you use them as printed?

I used them as printed.

[Eaglezsoar]

I just wanted you to know that kit or not, I want to personally thank you for giving to the people of this forum the best thing that has come along in a long time.
I wish it was possible that we could purchase a kit only because I feel you should benefit in some way for all you have provided to us.
I know that a personal thanks doesn't have a monetary value but at this point that is all I can give. Thanks for a job well done!

[cambo3d]

xnaron,

I prefer not to 3d print my arms, so what size tube do I need to get, any requirements for inner and outer diameters? sucks you can't get to the kits yet.

[xnaron]

xnaron,

I prefer not to 3d print my arms, so what size tube do I need to get, any requirements for inner and outer diameters? sucks you can't get to the kits yet.

Yes don't print them. Checkout the first post in this thread for all the details. You need a tube (alum or cf) with outer diameter of 3/8"

[elqisqeyano]

After seeing the awesome Berrybot3D by Werner Berry I got magnet fever and had to have one. I did not have the time to cnc mill and lathe the required parts out of metal so I decided to see if I could make a printable part set. Well I did and it worked better than I could have ever hoped. I'd like to share it with the community so they can benefit from it. Please find the details below. Don't hesitate to post any questions you have in this thread. The details below are a work in progress and I will continue updating them as required.

STL's:

https://github.com/xnaron/Xnaron-Magnarms-for-Rostock (openscad files to be uploaded in due course)

Parts:

- Magnets http://www.ebay.com/itm/221224258595 (BE CAREFUL NOT TO LET THE MAGNETS SNAP TOGETHER AND NEVER USE PLIERS ON THEM. THEY ARE FRAGILE AND CAN EASILY BREAK)
- Balls http://www.ebay.com/itm/380140413083
- Alum or carbon fiber tube x 6 @ exactly 240mm long
- 24 x 3mmx6mm cap head allen screws to be jb welded to the balls. Important: Clean the balls and the screws in an acetone bath before gluing.
- JB Weld (Mix it well)
- Assorted 3mm screws, washers and locknuts to mount the components
- CA glue

Optional Parts:

- Squirrel cage fans for cooling PLA. http://www.ebay.com/itm/180389680237

Instructions/notes:

- Use a small dab of jb weld to glue the 3mmx6mm screw to the ball. I use one of the boom ends with the magnet in it in a vice to hold the ball. The magnet will help suck the screw down when you are gluing it. Let it cure under a lamp about 12" from the bulb.
- Use a 3mm washer under every ball on the effector and the cheapskate mounts.
- Use 3mm cap head screws to secure the cheapskate ball mounts to the cheapskate carriages.
- Use a longer 3mm screw to cut the threads for the balls in the effector and cheapskate ball mounts. Don't try and thread with the ball
- Use CA to glue the ball ends to the tubes if you don't have a push fit (don't forget to put the magnets in). Make sure all the arms are the same length.
- make sure you use 3/8" outer diameter tubes for the arms cut to exactly 240mm. This will match the firmware #define DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD 269.0 // mm in configuration.h
- You need to #define END_EFFECTOR_HORIZONTAL_OFFSET 36.5 in configuration.h for the new effector. (if you don't do this you prints will be too large)
- The stock seemecnc hot end will work in this but don't use the standoffs. You want to keep the hotend away from the printed effector.
- I used 1/4" light ply to laser cut the all the dxfs EXCEPT for the J-Head groove mount which is thinner material.

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[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-ZNs-i9RIk[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMOKtggNcO4[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CWsbbOQ1Wqk[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=611yF-Wudi0[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cza9-P7ucyo[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDQCGrZwsbs[/youtube]

I was thinking of using aluminum insulated tape from home depot to insulate the ABS effector on the bottom and inner circle. Do you think it would work?

WIll this work?... http://www.homedepot.com/p/UltraTouch-4 ... Ymo3son9Ow

[xnaron]

I just wanted you to know that kit or not, I want to personally thank you for giving to the people of this forum the best thing that has come along in a long time.
I wish it was possible that we could purchase a kit only because I feel you should benefit in some way for all you have provided to us.
I know that a personal thanks doesn't have a monetary value but at this point that is all I can give. Thanks for a job well done!

Thank you. I am looking forward to seeing everyones results. Good luck with your conversion.

[elqisqeyano]

Update on kits:

I've got a lot going on in my life right now with a move to a new property. At this time a kit won't be coming any time soon. If you are anxious to do this mod the best bet will be for you to follow the instructions and parts list on the first page of this thread. I will be making updates there as time permits. I will also be releasing the openscad files soon.

Brendin

How many perimeters for the boom ends and the arms?

[elqisqeyano]

I just wanted you to know that kit or not, I want to personally thank you for giving to the people of this forum the best thing that has come along in a long time.
I wish it was possible that we could purchase a kit only because I feel you should benefit in some way for all you have provided to us.
I know that a personal thanks doesn't have a monetary value but at this point that is all I can give. Thanks for a job well done!

I second that! Thanks for this upgrade Xnaron, really genius and the simplicity is what is fascinating. I thought it would be so complicated.

Namaste.

[Eaglezsoar]

Does anyone know a good USA based online reseller for the 3/8" OD carbon fiber rods?
Please don't tell me to Google it, I have done that and from what I have seen, I would prefer
a recommendation from someone. McMaster Carr has them but the costs are prohibitive. I know
absolutely nothing about arrows. Just a recommendation please with part numbers and costs for the
Rods. I would assume hollow verses solid from a weight point of view. Thanks in advance for the
help you can provide.

[xnaron]

Does anyone know a good USA based online reseller for the 3/8" OD carbon fiber rods?
Please don't tell me to Google it, I have done that and from what I have seen, I would prefer
a recommendation from someone. McMaster Carr has them but the costs are prohibitive. I know
absolutely nothing about arrows. Just a recommendation please with part numbers and costs for the
Rods. I would assume hollow verses solid from a weight point of view. Thanks in advance for the
help you can provide.

Try your local hobby shops. You might wantto use aluminum tube over carbon fiber. Aluminum is easier to cut and there is no dangerous dust produced like carbon fiber.

these guys sell carbon fiber tube http://cstsales.com/

[xnaron]

Update on kits:

I've got a lot going on in my life right now with a move to a new property. At this time a kit won't be coming any time soon. If you are anxious to do this mod the best bet will be for you to follow the instructions and parts list on the first page of this thread. I will be making updates there as time permits. I will also be releasing the openscad files soon.

Brendin

How many perimeters for the boom ends and the arms?

10 perimeters for the boom ends.

[elqisqeyano]

Does anyone know a good USA based online reseller for the 3/8" OD carbon fiber rods?
Please don't tell me to Google it, I have done that and from what I have seen, I would prefer
a recommendation from someone. McMaster Carr has them but the costs are prohibitive. I know
absolutely nothing about arrows. Just a recommendation please with part numbers and costs for the
Rods. I would assume hollow verses solid from a weight point of view. Thanks in advance for the
help you can provide.

Bamboo would also be a good choice.

[elqisqeyano]

Update on kits:

I've got a lot going on in my life right now with a move to a new property. At this time a kit won't be coming any time soon. If you are anxious to do this mod the best bet will be for you to follow the instructions and parts list on the first page of this thread. I will be making updates there as time permits. I will also be releasing the openscad files soon.

Brendin

How many perimeters for the boom ends and the arms?

10 perimeters for the boom ends.

Got it, Thanks.

[elqisqeyano]

Does anyone know a good USA based online reseller for the 3/8" OD carbon fiber rods?
Please don't tell me to Google it, I have done that and from what I have seen, I would prefer
a recommendation from someone. McMaster Carr has them but the costs are prohibitive. I know
absolutely nothing about arrows. Just a recommendation please with part numbers and costs for the
Rods. I would assume hollow verses solid from a weight point of view. Thanks in advance for the
help you can provide.

Here some 3/8" aluminum tubing, in different ID.

http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/alu ... 20&aident=

[Eaglezsoar]

Xnaron wrote:

- 24 x 3mmx6mm cap head allen screws to be jb welded to the balls. Important: Clean the balls and the screws in an acetone bath before gluing.

I am confused, shouldn't that be 12 instead of 24? There are 6 arms with a ball at each end. Am I missing something?

[xnaron]

Xnaron wrote:

- 24 x 3mmx6mm cap head allen screws to be jb welded to the balls. Important: Clean the balls and the screws in an acetone bath before gluing.

I am confused, shouldn't that be 12 instead of 24? There are 6 arms with a ball at each end. Am I missing something?

you are correct. I fixed it. Thanks