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Mac The Knife wrote:After noticing a dead air space between the liner and the heatsink, I perforated the heat sink to allow some airflow through to keep the liner cool. It probably wouldn't need as much as I did.

Not sure how you did that. Can you elaborate? Also: has anyone found a way to increase the air flow across the part outside of using an external fan?

By taking it apart, and also checking out the solid model files. At low temperatures it isn't much of a problem, but I was printing PetG at 260c, and duriing retractions, the teflon was soft enough to allow the petg to form a plug between the heat break, and the teflon. After milling slots in between every other fin, I no longer had that problem.

Following up on Jetguy's recommendation to swap motors:

Using this repo: https://github.com/seemecnc/Firmware
And these motors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015SS3Y7O

The Configuration.h uploaded a page back is out of date with the repo on GitHub (won't compile), so I had to port over some settings to the Configuration.h on the repo. I also found that with the new motors, I had to invert the X/Y/Z axis directions. (Just going by the colors of wires on the steppers and plugging them in the same color-order as the old steppers.) My Configuration.h that works with the Eris is attached:
I don't know if the motors sound any different, but the calibration works now. It isn't perfect - the filament is a little bit squished in one place - but it's nowhere near how bad it was before. I don't have to use a gigantic 1st layer height ("bed roughness" in KISSlicer) anymore.

I think I'm too late to be considered an early adopter, but I did get an Eris up and modified this weekend.

Observations:

Raspberry pi/Delta Calibration Plugin: Covered in awesome sauce. G28, G29, load eeprom, run calibration, DONE! I can't believe a delta cal has been reduced to something so easy. It used to take me hours to get my Max V2 calibrated for the larger prints.

Raspberry pi power: I stole 5VDC from the LED back lit face plate and re-purposed a 4 pin molex from my Max V3 build and put it on the GPIO pin of the pi. I wound up routing the wire around the USB jack.

Spooler: Hate it, hate it, hate it. It winds up fighting the extruder on multiple retraction prints, and is sketchy overall. I wound up redesigning it (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2007564) altogether and extending the PTFE tube with another PTFE tube to the top of the machine. Now it is smooth as silk, and I have some real estate for a filament cleaner/oiler. The spool now sits firmly on top of the machine where it belongs.

Print quality overall: Outstanding for the price range. The sample blue is OK, but when I put some of my MHPro on there all of the surface issues I was chasing cleared up. It's actually printing pretty close to the quality of one of my Rostocks.