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I'm not sure, if every soldering point is a good one.. Hard to say from the pictures. Maybe you want to doublecheck.

aehM_Key wrote:I'm not sure, if every soldering point is a good one..

cu-lead.gif

Hard to say from the pictures. Maybe you want to doublecheck.

yeah its not perfect but they all metered good.

Mine doesn't have holes there for the RAMBo, but it will by Saturday evening.

- dan

dbarrans wrote:Mine doesn't have holes there for the RAMBo, but it will by Saturday evening.

- dan

Continuing into the morning hours.. I decided to mod my voitek power supply a little. Just to clean some wiring up and add few things. Here is a sneak peak. Dedicated 24v 31amp 750 watt Meanwell power supply and 25amp solid state relay for the Heated bed. To make sure my onyx gets to temp with the quickness. More to come later. I'm calling it a night.

So after some surgery on my voitek power supply. Here is the result. Combined that bunch of messy wires into something more manageable and got rid of lines that weren't needed.

3 dedicated 12v sources for the rambo. Plus one extra 12v source connect to fuseblock for accessories, One 5v source just in case I needed it for something, also wired to fuseblock for accessories

I will be adding a standby led light, manual power switch for the power supply, and power on Indicator on the front of the rostock.

Of course all this is just something I wanted to do and its not required.

mess of wires after surgery

On the last picture you posted I see red and black wires but I see no yellow (12V) wires.
I bet you hid them so I would ask..


Carl

Eaglezsoar wrote:On the last picture you posted I see red and black wires but I see no yellow (12V) wires.
I bet you hid them so I would ask..


Carl

if you look at the photos above the yellow wires got spliced and soldered to the red wires. here's a better picture below. All my 12v wires are 14Gauge, and 5v wires are 16 guage. That's how I determine which is which. I removed the blue -12v wire, no use for it.

Good job, threw me a curve on that one.
Have you connected the Onyx to the 24v supply to make sure the traces can handle it without any problems?

Eaglezsoar wrote:Good job, threw me a curve on that one.
Have you connected the Onyx to the 24v supply to make sure the traces can handle it without any problems?

Haven't finished the wiring yet, but John from seemecnc says its okay and aehM_key is also using 24v for the onyx.

Has anyone wondered or knows what the slots and holes are for on the top plate of the rostock max?

or maybe no reason at all for them being there?

Best guess is they wanted to make sure it was ventilated and went a little overboard.

Maybe for this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8B1PypVCvU&hd=1 ...and other future extensions

aehM_Key wrote:Maybe for this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8B1PypVCvU&hd=1 ...and other future extensions

yeah i saw that before, but i thought maybe there was a reason for this version.

starting to get my heatbed prepped for wiring and I did not realize now small the thermistor really is. This is a delicate operation and now can I see why this could short out the rambo ports. Especially if your not careful.

Here are some close up shots. I put some thermal heatsink compound to fill in the air gaps. Double checked with a meter to make sure nothing was shorting. I will rtv it to seal it in place.

May I ask what type of camera you use to take those amazing closeups?

Casio EX-Z1050

(The pictures are ok, but there is much more possible, e.g. http://www.abload.de/img/new-out999993n7t.jpg )

Eaglezsoar wrote:May I ask what type of camera you use to take those amazing closeups?

Actually the close ups were taken by a microscope camera. Comes in handy when your troubleshooting circuit boards too.
I bought a cheap chinese made one off of ebay, seems to work descent and gets the job done.

Amazing!

(Sorry, I thought you where talking about the other ones. The camera is written in the Exif data.)

aehM_Key wrote:(Sorry, I thought you where talking about the other ones. The camera is written in the Exif data.)

Most of my photos were taken with the casio but not the close ups.

Heat spreader (http://www.3dfabricationworks.com/rosto ... rades.html) mounted on top of the Onyx heat bed. In between the heat spreader and the onyx I laid a layer of thermal heatsink compound to help with heat transfer. edit: I had problems with the aluminum bowing, so it was removed later on. Soldered everything underneath. 10awg Flexible silicone wire is no problem for tight spaces and its rated for 200 degrees Celsius. I should also mention that I used a 230/150 watt soldering iron to attach the larger 10 gauge wires to the heat bed. Fit perfectly through the existing hole, no need to widen. Solid state relay mounted behind my electronics door, wiring almost complete.

cambo3d wrote:Continuing into the morning hours.. I decided to mod my voitek power supply a little. Just to clean some wiring up and add few things. Here is a sneak peak.

CIMG1498.JPG

Dedicated 24v 31amp 750 watt Meanwell power supply and 25amp solid state relay for the Heated bed. To make sure my onyx gets to temp with the quickness.

CIMG1499.JPG

CIMG1500.JPG

CIMG1485.JPG

More to come later. I'm calling it a night.

Why not just use the 24v PS to power the RAMbo? It's rated for up to 36v. I have a MendelMax running on a 24v PS to power the linear y-axis upgrade kapton heater. It doesn't complain at all.

Why not just use the 24v PS to power the RAMbo? It's rated for up to 36v. I have a MendelMax running on a 24v PS to power the linear y-axis upgrade kapton heater. It doesn't complain at all.[/quote]


The steppers that I have aren't rated for 24v and I wanted a dedicated supply for the heat bed.