Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

I ordered mine from Sweden on Wednesday night and got it the following Wednesday, not bad. My shipping was $30 though.??

These are really well designed and nicely made.
Tried it today for the first time today, Wow! it does have power and NO slip or grind.
I was testing PLA at lower and lower temps with a .35 nozzle J-Head... went a bit to low, blew the bowden tube right out of the PTC !!!

Is there a way to bolt the BondTech QR head to a TriDPrinting 5.18:1 stepper, that doesn't cost $90? I am not paying fifty freaking dollars for two hobbed bolts. The dude from Sweden can find another way to buy a yacht.

I honestly think the TriDPrinting solution ($34 motor, $7 hobbed bolt) is fine. Dual pinch rollers seem like a good way to blow out the PTC fitting. Rather it skip than do that, and if it skips with that fat 12.5mm O.D. hobbed bolt, it means I'm doing something wrong. I think I'll just design a flex filament-capable extruder that bolts directly onto the gearbox of the TriDPrinting motor. I have modded one EZStruder for flex filament, but it's not as good as something purpose-built for that.

In other news, I'm getting an assembled set of six mag arms and matching chromed steel balls from this guy. The steel balls have M3 studs, and there appears to be enough clearance to install them both to the Trick Laser platform and carriage yokes. Presumably, the ball cups on the ends of these arms are printed either in PLA or ABS, so we have the same problem as Traxxas rod ends. Friction with the steel ball will cause them to wear over time. Fortunately, it's now possible to buy POM (acetal) filament at $50/spool. It's hard as hell to get to adhere to the glass, but someone figured out that you can use a PLA raft and it'll stick to that just fine. Acetal rod ends printed at 50 microns should be pretty damn good!

I think the Cherry Pi IIIS printer is better still. Instead of the effector and carriage yokes, the steel balls are installed to the rod ends, and the effector and yokes have cups that the balls ride in. He prints his out of regular plastic. I would either use 3D printed acetal, or just buy a block of the stuff and machine it into an effector (with SeeMeCNC standard holes) and carriage yokes. I think machining would be the cleanest and most accurate way to go. Anyway, rather than magnets, he ties a length of Spectra line to the side of the effector, then a stiff spring to the Spectra line, then the spring is hooked up to the carriage yoke. No magnets - the Spectra line and spring hold everything together. Basically, this is mag arms without worry that they'll ever detach. You can see photos of this if you scroll through the gallery.

My end goal is to have a fleet of three MAX METAL printers with either magnetic or tensioned ball-end arms. I prefer to use the Trick Laser platform and carriage yokes rather than designing my own, so hopefully these magnets do the job.

Can a smoothieboard Regulate the fan power down to 5 Volts?

KAS wrote:

lyncos79 wrote:

forrie wrote:Have you seen what KAS has done a few posts up?

Yes, but he's not using the little posts and I am using them... Maybe I can give a try but I feel I'll loose height..

Anyway, can I please get a link to that 'fan rack' stl file ? I may give a try.

Thanks

I drew up a quick print to use a specific type of fan. I have it mounted to one of the tabs on the Trick Laser platform.

The zip file contains the .rsdoc used with DesignSpark Mechanical.

UDQFC3E15_Layer_Fan.zip

UDQFC3E15_Layer_Fan.stl

That fan can be found: http://www.mpja.com/5VDC-Mini-CPU-Fan/p ... 2166%20FN/

[img]http://s4.postimg.org/ytfrhpk4t/20150925_192707.jpg[/img]

DarrenAnton wrote:Can a smoothieboard Regulate the fan power down to 5 Volts?

Yep, I made a cheesy video showing the different voltages compared to the fan output on a few candles. That was done on a smoothieboard by controlling the fan speed through Simplfy3D. About 45% = 5v. Although I've been running it at 12v for a few months now with no issues.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dj_7z8ihwzc[/youtube]

Thanks! was your post that I did see on that, Got the fans on the way. I Just did not want to Over volt them and burn them up.

If you have Trick Trucks and the Trick Laser MAX METAL platform, what do you use as a starting value for the horizontal (delta) radius?

626Pilot wrote:If you have Trick Trucks and the Trick Laser MAX METAL platform, what do you use as a starting value for the horizontal (delta) radius?

According to Brian:
Distance from center of platform to arm pivot = 33 MM (Effector offset)
Distance from center of tower extrusion to arm pivot = 34 MM (Carriage offset)
Distance from center of print bed to center of tower = 200 MM (Printer radius)

200-(34+33)=133MM Delta Radius

Is that with the 300 MM Carbon Fiber Tube Arms ? or same for all?

rubiks24 wrote:

626Pilot wrote:If you have Trick Trucks and the Trick Laser MAX METAL platform, what do you use as a starting value for the horizontal (delta) radius?

According to Brian:
Distance from center of platform to arm pivot = 33 MM (Effector offset)
Distance from center of tower extrusion to arm pivot = 34 MM (Carriage offset)
Distance from center of print bed to center of tower = 200 MM (Printer radius)

200-(34+33)=133MM Delta Radius

DarrenAnton wrote:Is that with the 300 MM Carbon Fiber Tube Arms ? or same for all?

Delta radius is independent of arm length, that's why you can adjust them individually.

rubiks24 wrote:

DarrenAnton wrote:Is that with the 300 MM Carbon Fiber Tube Arms ? or same for all?

Delta radius is independent of arm length, that's why you can adjust them individually.

This is very true. I was surprised to discover this. In my CAD assembly of my delta, changing the arms does nothing to the HR -- it stays precisely the same.

Arm length doesn't impact delta radius because DR is the horizontal (XY plane) distance between the effector and carriage hinges when the effector is centered. Changing the arm length will move the effector up or down when centered, but the horizontal distance will always be the same.

Let's talk Pulley's..

On the MAX METAL Build is it better to use 20 Tooth Pulley's or 18's or 14's

I put 20 in there it was my understanding they would be better but now I'm reading smaller is better?

I have 20's and 18's but I can order the 14's from here...
http://openbuildspartstore.com/gt2-2mm- ... -14-tooth/

What is the best setup for this?
(also using a Smoothieboard 5x)

Thanks

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe they went with the 20 tooth pulley to keep the belt in line with the carriages.

I went with a 16T GT2 gear from tridprinting. http://www.tridprinting.com/Mechanical-Parts/. They seem to work just fine for me. I like the 16T because with 0.9 degree steppers, and 1/32 micro-stepping, I get an even 400 steps per mm. This also translates to more even theoretical resolution breakpoints. 5micron, 10 micron, 50 micron, and so on.

I'm not certain anything smaller than a 20 tooth will fit without the belts rubbing inside the extrusion. It's a close fit.

ccavanaugh wrote:I'm not certain anything smaller than a 20 tooth will fit without the belts rubbing inside the extrusion. It's a close fit.

Yes it was indeed a very close fit, have got to get the gear centered just right. I ran the belt by hand and could not feel any rubbing, so I guess 16T is probably the smallest you can go.

rubiks24 wrote:

ccavanaugh wrote:I'm not certain anything smaller than a 20 tooth will fit without the belts rubbing inside the extrusion. It's a close fit.

Yes it was indeed a very close fit, have got to get the gear centered just right. I ran the belt by hand and could not feel any rubbing, so I guess 16T is probably the smallest you can go.

Thanks, good to know. Smaller is better. I may go an 18T for the next build then. I like a little margin of safety.

16T worked perfect for me. No rubbing.

Does anyone have a 3D-printed part that makes the belts truly vertical if you have Trick Trucks? There is a part for if you're using the SeeMe carriage yoke, but that doesn't do anything if you have the full metal Trick Laser platform & carriage set.

626Pilot wrote:Does anyone have a 3D-printed part that makes the belts truly vertical if you have Trick Trucks? There is a part for if you're using the SeeMe carriage yoke, but that doesn't do anything if you have the full metal Trick Laser platform & carriage set.

Not exactly sure what you mean by truly vertical? As in the belt path looking sideways would be H shaped instead of h shaped? That would be nice too in order to clamp them down better since they slip a little in the trick laser carriage sets.

The way it is by default, the belts route through a hole in the Trick Trucks, which is a few millimeters away from what should be the belt centerline. The result is that the belt's shape is a triangle, instead of two vertical lines. I want two vertical lines so that the angle between the top/bottom pulleys and the Trucks doesn't constantly change.

Ok, I see what you are saying, but what's the benefit of doing so? Are we actually seeing an appreciable difference? I suppose a bracket can be made, but would have to be sized based on the top and bottom pulley/gear size. I'll take a look at my CAD models later and see if I can whip something up.

626Pilot wrote:Does anyone have a 3D-printed part that makes the belts truly vertical if you have Trick Trucks? There is a part for if you're using the SeeMe carriage yoke, but that doesn't do anything if you have the full metal Trick Laser platform & carriage set.

https://github.com/ccavanaugh/Max-Metal ... Spacer.STL This works for a 20T gear assuming you stack the extra washer under the truck wheels to create room for it. I can create variations of other size gears if there is interest. This also assumes a 11mm OD bearing.

Some 9mm and 8mm with 5mm ID can be had at FastEddy bearings for gears under 20T.

yes Please, Can you post them here?

Thanks...



[quote="ccavanaugh"]An update on the build...

I also created an alternate spool holder bracket to combine the extruder mount as well. If anyone is interested in the extruder, I will make the files available.

DarrenAnton wrote:yes Please, Can you post them here?

Thanks...

ccavanaugh wrote:An update on the build...

I also created an alternate spool holder bracket to combine the extruder mount as well. If anyone is interested in the extruder, I will make the files available.

https://github.com/ccavanaugh/Max-Metal ... %20Extuder
Files to my version of the Gregg/Wades geared extruder are linked. It uses an old school hobbed bolt and completely traps the filament on the entry and exit of the bolt so softer materials such as PETG can be extruder easily.

Gear ratio is 2.85, but I've included the orginal scab file I generated the gears with should you want to alter it. Just maintain the center distance.

It's been through a couple of revisions to optimize it. It will more than likely require a little bit of cleanup after supports are removed. Chase the filament path with a 2mm drill after removing the support. Bearings used are the same as what the RockstockMAX V1 came with.

I've been printing the parts at 80% infill for strength.