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cambo3d wrote:i thought flateric was using a standalone pid controller, it came with its own thermistor/thermocouple?

No, I have tried them out and they are nice, but I will continue to use the built in thermistor and temp control systems on this 3rd Rambo, until they give up.

The I will go with the seperate tempurature control system for each subsystem.

Those little controllers you help me pick though. Slick units. And as always much smaller than the pictures on ebay would lead you to believe, which in this case is actually a good thing.

this is really easy to set up, just change some values in firmware and its ready to go.

testing on the bench proof firmware setup

cambo3d wrote:thought id show off my other build side by side,

tricklaser lightweight arms,
longer extrusions in black
hall effect endstop switches
testing custom turn buckle belt tensioner
testing mic6 with 24v silicone heat pad
testing all metal hotend
testing direct mounted extruder

CIMG2021.JPG

What's the final belt length on the 4" higher unit? I'm considering this as an option to make up for lost room if I mount my micro under the platform.

you'll need around 245in of belt.

Thank you sir.

Cambo3D, you told me how to get the nylon lock nuts on backwards and by golly it worked! Thank you.
I would like to see how you mount those hall effect sensors, those little micro-switches are a real pain to line
up with the screw head, the holes for the screws seem to be in the wrong place. We really need an alternative
and I think your idea will be great. I am looking forward to seeing some pictures on what you came up with for
the mounting of those hall effects. You are always coming up with great ideas and I love to steal em.

I have searched Ebay looking for those Hall Effect sensors you purchased. Would you mind posting your source for those?

I got them from ebay awhile ago because they were selling them at a discounted price for this particular model. Ive had them in my electronics pile for quite sometime. here is the part number for it. 103sr13a-10.

note though: you can use almost any type hall affect switch, mine just has this fancy metal casing around it.

I am going to check out using the hall effect sensors that are about the size of a transistor. I think they would be easier to mount
and would fit the scale of the Rostock better. Place the hall effect sensor where the microswitch is now and maybe a small magnet on
the end of the screw. Just thinking out loud, if I come up with something I'll post it.

Eaglezsoar wrote:I am going to check out using the hall effect sensors that are about the size of a transistor. I think they would be easier to mount
and would fit the scale of the Rostock better. Place the hall effect sensor where the microswitch is now and maybe a small magnet on
the end of the screw. Just thinking out loud, if I come up with something I'll post it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-x-Hall-Endsto ... 2320b1ee6d

foshon, I have a set of those, they are so large it is difficult to figure out how to mount them.
Thanks for the link tho brother foshon.

so i finally found some heavy duty turnbuckles and ball ends that fit the stock screw sizes, here are the pics in comparison.
installed

Eaglezsoar wrote:I am going to check out using the hall effect sensors that are about the size of a transistor. I think they would be easier to mount
and would fit the scale of the Rostock better. Place the hall effect sensor where the microswitch is now and maybe a small magnet on
the end of the screw. Just thinking out loud, if I come up with something I'll post it.

FWIW I think using a hall effects the magnet must pass by the sensor not move directly towards it.
You should read the datasheet for the sensor and look at how they recommend using it.

Polygonhell wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:I am going to check out using the hall effect sensors that are about the size of a transistor. I think they would be easier to mount
and would fit the scale of the Rostock better. Place the hall effect sensor where the microswitch is now and maybe a small magnet on
the end of the screw. Just thinking out loud, if I come up with something I'll post it.

FWIW I think using a hall effects the magnet must pass by the sensor not move directly towards it.
You should read the datasheet for the sensor and look at how they recommend using it.

you can use it either way,

Where did you get you hands on those, hobby store? What's the blue one at the bottom?

Flateric wrote:Where did you get you hands on those, hobby store? What's the blue one at the bottom?

that's my bling bling 5mm adjustment wrench

im gonna gather up all the part numbers to the parts I used and post them up for you guys. along with the dxf file for the longer top support plates.
Brian from trick laser cut these top plates for me when I ordered my tl-1 frame. Maybe he wont mind doing some of these for you guys also.

Don't forget the part number for the wrench, that thing is COOL!

Turn buckle tensioner parts, FOR modified top supports.


I purchased some of these items in bulk, the quantities needed for assembly are in parenthesis ( ).

• (1) Dubro - DUBQ2316 – 12 pack of monster ball links, package has hardware needed for installation so don’t lose the parts

• (3) Packages of Great planes – GPMQ3754- Turnbuckle/pushrod, these come two per package.
• (6) 2.5in 6-32 screws Mcmastercarr part# 91772A161
• (12) 6-32 washers or #6 washers
• (3) 5/16 OD x 1.5in length nylon spacers for #6 screws. Mcmastercarr part # 94639A371

• (1) 5mm adjustment wrench, towerhobbies.com carries an assortment of these, just pick one you like. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wt ... 5mm+wrench& search=Go

• (6) Modified top support plates dxf file below.


Notes:
All the turnbuckles will need to be cut down slightly, they are 54mm in length, I removed 4-6mm off each end to give me the adjustment range I needed. If you can find shorter length turnbuckles in the 6-32 size and around 42mm that would be a better fit for the current top support plates. You can also modify the dxf file so that there is more spacing in between the very top and the bottom hole, that way you don’t have to cut down the turnbuckles. My top support plates were already cut so I did the later.

If you need to cut down the 6-32 turn buckle, this can be accomplished with just some wire strippers that have 6-32 bolt cutters integrated, makes quick work of it. Just use a file to remove any burrs.

dxf files for modified top support plates.

my all metal hotend arrived today also,

looks pretty, this is for 3mm filament so im waiting on some other things to test this out.

Nice! A trinity labs one, I grabbed one of them too. Shame about the 3mm only so far from them.

excited to show this off today, made from 1/8" 6061 aluminum. http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 300#p10848

off the cnc router weighs about 24g, don't know if this is good or bad, but seems fairly light to me. comparing to stock can use ball studs with magnets ends on the rods or, cup mount for ball bearing, etc.. still working out the design

cambo3d wrote:my all metal hotend arrived today also,

looks pretty, this is for 3mm filament so im waiting on some other things to test this out.

CIMG2056.JPG

CIMG2058.JPG

Mine arrived as well, the resistor supplied is too large to fit the hole in the heater block, so I won't be assembling it for a couple of weeks, by the time the heater cartridge I ordered arrives I'll be travelling for business. :/

That's strange mine fits perfect. although i don't know if I'll use it or not. I want to switch to the cartridge style.

cambo3d wrote:That's strange mine fits perfect. although i don't know if I'll use it or not, I believe its a 24v resistor. I want to switch to the cartridge style.

Be careful, if you put the thermistor in the nozzle it is damn near impossible to get PID right. I had to butcher my firmware to get close.

here is the prototype mount for the pg35l extruder.
This version mounts the direct drive extruder underneath the rostock platform. vs the top as shown on this thingiverse link http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:43457