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gkrangan wrote:

geneb wrote:themitch22, try running the eeprom_clear program and then try a new firmware upload. The eeprom_clear program will ensure that you're not starting out with weird values. Please DO contact support - there may be issues going on that we're not aware of but they are.

g.

Hi geneb,

Where can one find the EEPROM clear program? Can you please provide some pointers?

Thank you.

EEPROM clear is built into the Arduino IDE. you can also find code for it here, in case it's hiding or not present in your version: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/EEPROMClear

So... does anyone know how to enable OLED in the firmware on this thing? <3

I tried putting a reprapdiscount full graphic display on the printer over the weekend but found that the support for it might have been removed from the firmware? I had ordered a nice little OLED display awhile back and it just got here.. it looks like it could fit with the Eris design very well.. but.. now im not sure OLED is supported

Xenocrates wrote:

gkrangan wrote:

geneb wrote:themitch22, try running the eeprom_clear program and then try a new firmware upload. The eeprom_clear program will ensure that you're not starting out with weird values. Please DO contact support - there may be issues going on that we're not aware of but they are.

g.

Hi geneb,

Where can one find the EEPROM clear program? Can you please provide some pointers?

Thank you.

EEPROM clear is built into the Arduino IDE. you can also find code for it here, in case it's hiding or not present in your version: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/EEPROMClear

Thank you for the info, Xenocrates.

And once the EEPROM is erased from the Arduino IDE, and a new firmware update is performed, does that restore the EEPROM as well?

Regards.

geneb wrote:themitch22, try running the eeprom_clear program and then try a new firmware upload. The eeprom_clear program will ensure that you're not starting out with weird values. Please DO contact support - there may be issues going on that we're not aware of but they are.

g.

Thanks I'll try that tonight. I knew it was retaining some sort of values even after M502 and reloading firmware in eerprom. I still don't understand why my auto-calibration isn't functioning properly but I'll try it with fresh eeprom values.

gkrangan wrote:
Thank you for the info, Xenocrates.

And once the EEPROM is erased from the Arduino IDE, and a new firmware update is performed, does that restore the EEPROM as well?

Regards.

It will write the default values back into the EEPROM. those will probably print poorly, but should calibrate to proper values pretty quickly with auto-calibration.

JATMN wrote:So... does anyone know how to enable OLED in the firmware on this thing? <3

I tried putting a reprapdiscount full graphic display on the printer over the weekend but found that the support for it might have been removed from the firmware? I had ordered a nice little OLED display awhile back and it just got here.. it looks like it could fit with the Eris design very well.. but.. now im not sure OLED is supported

OLED is only a descriptor of technology used for the display itself. The word doesn't tell us anything about what kind of computer interface the display has, which is what we need to know to answer the question. You need to be specific about which display you're asking about.

Eric wrote:

JATMN wrote:So... does anyone know how to enable OLED in the firmware on this thing? <3

I tried putting a reprapdiscount full graphic display on the printer over the weekend but found that the support for it might have been removed from the firmware? I had ordered a nice little OLED display awhile back and it just got here.. it looks like it could fit with the Eris design very well.. but.. now im not sure OLED is supported

OLED is only a descriptor of technology used for the display itself. The word doesn't tell us anything about what kind of computer interface the display has, which is what we need to know to answer the question. You need to be specific about which display you're asking about.

TinyOLED v1.2 By HKmakers. Was originally done for the "TinyBoy" 3D printer.
Mine is the 1.3" display and microSD reader.
I been reading about it over on the reprap forms found some things to try out with it but im not strong with firmware modding.
I have the display in hand and will try tinkering with it after work today.

JATMN wrote:Printed using my s3d profile set to about 30mms and temp at 215c for this Filament. Not enough infill for the base though.. but not bad. As was off the print bed not clean up.

Have you made any updates to your S3D profile? It was under-extruding for me when I tried it this weekend.

TedMilker wrote:

JATMN wrote:Printed using my s3d profile set to about 30mms and temp at 215c for this Filament. Not enough infill for the base though.. but not bad. As was off the print bed not clean up.

Have you made any updates to your S3D profile? It was under-extruding for me when I tried it this weekend.

Were you using this one? http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 275#p91626
I have posted 2 version to this forum so far.. that would be the current one from that post..

Please let me know if your still having issues feedback helps a lot. I try to test different filaments and settings but I am 1 person with 1 Eris
If you have issues please post pictures if possible of your print results.

JATMN wrote: Were you using this one? http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 275#p91626
I have posted 2 version to this forum so far.. that would be the current one from that post..

Whoops, totally missed that for the images. Will give it a try.

JATMN wrote:

Eric wrote:

JATMN wrote:So... does anyone know how to enable OLED in the firmware on this thing? <3

I tried putting a reprapdiscount full graphic display on the printer over the weekend but found that the support for it might have been removed from the firmware? I had ordered a nice little OLED display awhile back and it just got here.. it looks like it could fit with the Eris design very well.. but.. now im not sure OLED is supported

OLED is only a descriptor of technology used for the display itself. The word doesn't tell us anything about what kind of computer interface the display has, which is what we need to know to answer the question. You need to be specific about which display you're asking about.

TinyOLED v1.2 By HKmakers. Was originally done for the "TinyBoy" 3D printer.
Mine is the 1.3" display and microSD reader.
I been reading about it over on the reprap forms found some things to try out with it but im not strong with firmware modding.
I have the display in hand and will try tinkering with it after work today.

Well, in 5 minutes of looking around, I'd say it's not plug-and-play, but quite the DIY project.

Your first issue will be just connecting it to your mini-rambo. The display is interfaced via I2C, which means you'll need to find which header has the i2c pins (too important a function to leave out, so I'm sure it's there somewhere). The SD card and encoder can likely be matched to the equivalent reprapdiscount pins...they look to be the same at first glance.

On the software side, supposedly the display is supported under the ug8 lib, but actually getting that to work in repetier could be a task. Have fun!

Eric wrote:
Well, in 5 minutes of looking around, I'd say it's not plug-and-play, but quite the DIY project.

Your first issue will be just connecting it to your mini-rambo. The display is interfaced via I2C, which means you'll need to find which header has the i2c pins (too important a function to leave out, so I'm sure it's there somewhere). The SD card and encoder can likely be matched to the equivalent reprapdiscount pins...they look to be the same at first glance.

On the software side, supposedly the display is supported under the ug8 lib, but actually getting that to work in repetier could be a task. Have fun!

I know very little, however the mini-rambo lacks the dedicated I2C plug of the full size unit. Perhaps you could tease enough out of http://reprap.org/wiki/MiniRambo_development to figure out I2C. from what I can see, it has the corresonding pins to I2C on the rambo for SCL and SDA as P3-6 and P3-8. However, I don't know what the other I2C pins on the full size rambo are for, or what they correspond to. They look like a 5V and a ground pin, meaning something you could easily find somewhere else. This seems to match up with the (Sparse and not very well edited) documentation that HKmakers provides. At that point, you should be able to pull the display code for it from any repetier version with support for it, not that I'm finding one off the shelf quickly. This thread covers the same display module, but I haven't looked beyond the very start of it yet(As it's pointless for me, not currently having a working rambo, and having a spare smart display). http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?267,507911

Hopefully these resources put you in the right direction JATMN. Best of luck with the mod.

Xenocrates wrote:

Eric wrote:
Well, in 5 minutes of looking around, I'd say it's not plug-and-play, but quite the DIY project.

Your first issue will be just connecting it to your mini-rambo. The display is interfaced via I2C, which means you'll need to find which header has the i2c pins (too important a function to leave out, so I'm sure it's there somewhere). The SD card and encoder can likely be matched to the equivalent reprapdiscount pins...they look to be the same at first glance.

On the software side, supposedly the display is supported under the ug8 lib, but actually getting that to work in repetier could be a task. Have fun!

I know very little, however the mini-rambo lacks the dedicated I2C plug of the full size unit. Perhaps you could tease enough out of http://reprap.org/wiki/MiniRambo_development to figure out I2C. from what I can see, it has the corresonding pins to I2C on the rambo for SCL and SDA as P3-6 and P3-8. However, I don't know what the other I2C pins on the full size rambo are for, or what they correspond to. They look like a 5V and a ground pin, meaning something you could easily find somewhere else. This seems to match up with the (Sparse and not very well edited) documentation that HKmakers provides. At that point, you should be able to pull the display code for it from any repetier version with support for it, not that I'm finding one off the shelf quickly. This thread covers the same display module, but I haven't looked beyond the very start of it yet(As it's pointless for me, not currently having a working rambo, and having a spare smart display). http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?267,507911

Hopefully these resources put you in the right direction JATMN. Best of luck with the mod.

Thanks Xenocrates! Looks like that's going to be more of a weekend project for me.. so I will dabble more with that at a later time I suppose. Would be nice to use this display as the whole model assembled is hardly bigger than the Eris Badge area.

On a side note do you forsee me having this same issue with the reprapdiscounts full graphic display? I was reading every result I could find on the reprap forum but all I could find was early implementation attempts of it in old firmware versions then just a non-stop stream of answers of saying "set feature control 11" and thats about it.. aside from fixes for the scroll pod.. setting to 2,11,12,13,22 (all numbers mentioned at one point or another on the various forum topics) never got the screen going more than just powered on with no picture. I know my controller works, I had tested with with Marlin on a different control board and it worked fine. Thoughts? Just really don't care for the simple interface of the smart controller and want something more exciting to look at.. lol

So I cleared the EEPROM, reloaded the latest repetier firmware again. Tried to do a full calibration.gcode it probed the three points fine, skips the first center probe for the radius and does the probe tap for the outside radius, then it tries to do the Z-height probe and keeps failing about 10mm before it touches the bed. I ran it again and it ran into the towers. I cleared the EEPROM, reloaded firmware, tried again. It finally got through calibration after failing the z-height probe test about 5 times. I try to print from S3D (with JATMN settings) and it runs right into the bed.

I must have a bad accellerometer sensor I'm guessing. What do I do now? I can't print on it now because it won't go through a proper Auto-Calibration.

themitch22 wrote:So I cleared the EEPROM, reloaded the latest repetier firmware again. Tried to do a full calibration.gcode it probed the three points fine, skips the first center probe for the radius and does the probe tap for the outside radius, then it tries to do the Z-height probe and keeps failing about 10mm before it touches the bed. I ran it again and it ran into the towers. I cleared the EEPROM, reloaded firmware, tried again. It finally got through calibration after failing the z-height probe test about 5 times. I try to print from S3D (with JATMN settings) and it runs right into the bed.

I must have a bad accellerometer sensor I'm guessing. What do I do now? I can't print on it now because it won't go through a proper Auto-Calibration.

It must be contagious,,,, I replaced the Kapton tape on the bed last night, and this morning when I replaced the bed and ran the calibration it doesn't run consistently. When it probes the outer perimeter, it then fails on the horizontal radius test, it "taps" air at about 10-12 mm above the bed. other times it probes the perimeter halfway to the perimeter.

themitch22 wrote:So I cleared the EEPROM, reloaded the latest repetier firmware again. Tried to do a full calibration.gcode it probed the three points fine, skips the first center probe for the radius and does the probe tap for the outside radius, then it tries to do the Z-height probe and keeps failing about 10mm before it touches the bed. I ran it again and it ran into the towers. I cleared the EEPROM, reloaded firmware, tried again. It finally got through calibration after failing the z-height probe test about 5 times. I try to print from S3D (with JATMN settings) and it runs right into the bed.

I must have a bad accellerometer sensor I'm guessing. What do I do now? I can't print on it now because it won't go through a proper Auto-Calibration.

Give support a ring. They will know more than we do, especially with the Eris, and probably can get it solved, even if it means replacing the accellerometer.

Eric wrote: Your first issue will be just connecting it to your mini-rambo. The display is interfaced via I2C, which means you'll need to find which header has the i2c pins (too important a function to leave out, so I'm sure it's there somewhere). The SD card and encoder can likely be matched to the equivalent reprapdiscount pins...they look to be the same at first glance.

The accelerometer in the hot end used for calibration is I2C, so you just have to figure out how SeeMeCNC has accessed those signals on the Mini Rambo and attach your I2C device there.

Are there any issues to be concerned about with the Mini-Rambo board drivers and MatterControl working properly on Windows 10?

I have procrastinated long enough, and now I guess I'll have to do this upgrade soon. Presently running Windows 8.1.

If you're still running 8.1, you will have no problem. I've run mine on a winbook tablet, with win 10, and both a netbook and a workstation with win 10.

OK, on a whim I flipped the plate over to glass and did the full calibration. I think that worked it probed successfully. I really don't understand what that's supposed to mean though? Is it just really soft material the head doesn't detect it? I know the Z-probe is failing because when it does it's first set of probes triggers early like it has an extreme bed level value and it's stopping short of the bed because it goes based on previous stored values.

I guess for now I'll go with glue stick or hairspray on glass.

themitch22, you really need to contact support about the issues you're having. Nobody here has enough experience with the Eris to be able to help you.

g.

geneb wrote:themitch22, you really need to contact support about the issues you're having. Nobody here has enough experience with the Eris to be able to help you.

g.

Sorry, I have contacted support email. I'll get their live chat too. It printed last night though so that's good. Like JATMN suggested I used a desk fan because the effector part cooling isn't enough for overhangs and prevent the PLA from curling.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/5hbt2To.jpg[/img]

So, this morning.. I had a problem when my Eris suddenly started to air-print. As soon as I noticed, I quickly cancelled the print and then tried unloading the filament using the provided gcode macro. But then, I noticed that the filament was slipping, and was not getting pulled back properly.

After a close observation, I diagnosed the problem to be a loose hobbled bolt. Sometimes it was spinning around the shaft, hence the filament was not getting pulled or pushed properly.

I then removed the clear front-cover, turned the hobbled-bolt to make sure that the set-screw was right above the flat-part of the shaft, removed the screw, put some blue loctite, and screwed it back in. The bolt and bearing alignment appeared to look OK. Then waited for about 10mins, for the loctite to set, and loaded the filament, and it's all good now. Hope it stays that way.

Also, I have been noticing some squeaking, when the carriages move up and down, and at the ball-joints as well. So, got some PTFE silicone grease from a Tamiya kit, and carefully applied a (very) little bit on each of the 12 ball-joints and the 6 vertical rods. Sounds a lot better, and smoother now.

Finally, the fan-shroud housing the LED (facing towards the front of the Eris) had developed a small gap, with the top black part. Since, the part-cooling effectiveness is already quite low, this small gap was leaking some of the air, meant to cool the printed part. I tried to press them together, but there was still a gap. The bottom and top black parts on the other sides are flush, with no gap. So, I cut a small piece of PVC Electrical Tape (Black) and sealed that gap. Since, nothing should get hot here, I guess I'm good.

Anyone else have had the above issue with the EZ-Struder, and the other two problems I've noticed? Perhaps you've had more creative solutions than I could come up with.

Meanwhile, this unit is exactly one week old, and has a total print time of about 35hours.

Thanks.

Mac The Knife wrote:If you're still running 8.1, you will have no problem. I've run mine on a winbook tablet, with win 10, and both a netbook and a workstation with win 10.

Thanks for the feedback. Time to take the plunge, I guess.

Mine has developed the same gap you describe,,,, When I get my hotend back together, I was going to use black pinstriping tape to cover the gap. I have not had any problems with the extruder yet.