Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

mhackney wrote:Something I've been working on in my spare time. Almost got it down.

That proves you are not working on it much because you have no spare time.
Cheers!

I'm in the middle of my build and I noticed the comments on the R4 bearings and bearing sleeves for the new idler bearings. I used a washer slipped onto a 1/4" bolt. I sat the bolt head on my bench pointed up and slipped the washer onto the bolt. After snapping a bearing sleeve on a bearing with my fingers I then slipped the bearing (which has a 1/4" inner diameter) with sleeve on top onto the bolt. Then I took a piece of scrap 1x2 with a 1/4" hole drilled through it and slipped that onto the bolt. The washer had a diameter smaller than that of the R4 bearing and held it up off the bench so then by leaning a bit on the piece of wood everything snapped together.

If the SeeMeCNC guys included a small disk slightly smaller than the R4 bearing diameter with a 1/4" hole as a cut out on the melamine sheets then that could be easily used to push the bearings and sleeves together.

geneb wrote:I tweaked the text a bit to help avoid that one.

FYI, nice Bone.

g.

Thanks, Semper Bone! I would like to find some 3d printable models.

HComet wrote:If the SeeMeCNC guys included a small disk slightly smaller than the R4 bearing diameter with a 1/4" hole as a cut out on the melamine sheets then that could be easily used to push the bearings and sleeves together.

That would probably work.

I am assembling a v2 that I got fresh from the factory this week.
Page 60 of the 4th edition manual shows 608 bearing style idlers, this kit appears to use the newer R4 bearing style idlers for everything.
Kit came with (9) idlers all the same.
Looks like the manual needs updating.
I did download the newest manual from link on SeeMeCNC site.

Where you made aware of this kit revision by SeeMeCNC ?
When did the change happen?

edit:
odd, I just counted 20 black plastic cone spacers, 9 idler wheels, and 9 R4 bearings. would that be 2 extra spacers?

Trying to think up things to make more work for Gene
I thought about a few things that cropped up during my build.
Now I expect most folks build their printers all at once or over a weekend of work at most.... but my build spaced out over about 12 or 14 days which I guess this is why i noticed this but I started with the manual dated Dec5 and I did not know about the changes made over those 12 days or so.

so I have several ways to improve the manual dispersion given the rolling dynamic changes that the engineering department impose on Gene.

an email from the sales department to folks that have recently bought a kit to get the new version of the manual... from http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax ... -Guide.pdf

or a note included with the kit and its invoice suggesting that the builder be sure to get the most recent version of the build and use manuals and to check
that the version date on the front cover of the build manual they get from http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax ... -Guide.pdf has
not changed if they start their build more than few days after getting the manual or if their build lasts more than a week or 2

perhaps a fresh post into the announcements forum when a new version goes up?

Of course if we really wanted to make it hard for Gene we could ask for mil spec documentation change notation with strike throughs and dated change lines

Windshadow wrote:Trying to think up things to make more work for Gene
I thought about a few things that cropped up during my build.
Now I expect most folks build their printers all at once or over a weekend of work at most.... but my build spaced out over about 12 or 14 days which I guess this is why i noticed this but I started with the manual dated Dec5 and I did not know about the changes made over those 12 days or so.

so I have several ways to improve the manual dispersion given the rolling dynamic changes that the engineering department impose on Gene.

an email from the sales department to folks that have recently bought a kit to get the new version of the manual... from http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax ... -Guide.pdf

or a note included with the kit and its invoice suggesting that the builder be sure to get the most recent version of the build and use manuals and to check
that the version date on the front cover of the build manual they get from http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax ... -Guide.pdf has
not changed if they start their build more than few days after getting the manual or if their build lasts more than a week or 2

perhaps a fresh post into the announcements forum when a new version goes up?

Of course if we really wanted to make it hard for Gene we could ask for mil spec documentation change notation with strike throughs and dated change lines

When I was still the TODO (technical order documentation officer) it wasn't done that way. The front page had the page change date, and the pages changed, then the changed pages would have the change date on the top. There'd always be the innocuous "This page left intentionally blank" pages throughout the manual as well.

I actually didn't really have any issues with the manual, except for the couple spots with the different part versions. Got a little sketchy there, but the parts before and after were great.

You hear that funny little squeaking noise? That's the pin bearings in my eyeballs failing due to over-rolling.

Page #6, second sentence: "Special Note: If you see sections labeled “A” or “B” (ex. 6.7A), those sections cover the same task, but with different parts!"

It's even in bold. I'd make it blink if I could figure out how.

[Edit: I'm uploading a new version that has clarifying text regarding where to get the 14", 18ga wires.]

g.

geneb wrote:You hear that funny little squeaking noise? That's the pin bearings in my eyeballs failing due to over-rolling.

Page #6, second sentence: "Special Note: If you see sections labeled “A” or “B” (ex. 6.7A), those sections cover the same task, but with different parts!"

It's even in bold. I'd make it blink if I could figure out how.

[Edit: I'm uploading a new version that has clarifying text regarding where to get the 14", 18ga wires.]

g.

You want to cage the gyros to protect those pin bearings

S'ok, I order replacement bearing sets in bulk.

g.

ya, sorry, somehow I totally missed the two different sections for idlers.
just noticed that today. duh.


also, my kit had BLUE 26awg wire not white for the tmist wire in X column.
no biggie, just mentioning it.



hmmmm, Kapton tape the wire splices? well, that's original.
suppose it works, but it IS butt ugly

bvandiepenbos wrote:ya, sorry, somehow I totally missed the two different sections for idlers.
just noticed that today. duh.


also, my kit had BLUE 26awg wire not white for the tmist wire in X column.
no biggie, just mentioning it.



hmmmm, Kapton tape the wire splices? well, that's original.
suppose it works, but it IS butt ugly

I used heat shrink tubing.

BLUE?!

*facedesk*

Dammit JJ!

Yes, Kapton insulation is kind of ghetto, but it gets the job done. That and I can't really justify asking a builder to buy a 3' length of heat shrink when they're only going to use about 3" of it. (and invariably, someone would use it on the hot end and you know how THAT would end...)

g.

Just a possible idea. When i was building my Max V2 and was pressing in my bearing I used a 7/16ths deep socket on a ratchet. It mated up perfectly with the outer edge of the bearing allowing me to apply even pressure on it. May be a helpful tip to include for the assembly! Thanks, Dan

geneb wrote:BLUE?!

*facedesk*

Dammit JJ!

Yes, Kapton insulation is kind of ghetto, but it gets the job done. That and I can't really justify asking a builder to buy a 3' length of heat shrink when they're only going to use about 3" of it. (and invariably, someone would use it on the hot end and you know how THAT would end...)

g.

I hope that you didn't get the blues over this.

Booooo!
g.

Question: Shouldn't the manual be modified so the bed is NOT over-constrained?
I recently found out that my machine (mid 2014) has the top base plate and the snowflake warped into a dome shape. According to various posts in this forum it's supposedly caused by using all 6 mounting screw to prevent the glass from expanding/contracting correctly.

No. The documentation shows how the assembly is to be done as-designed.

If the six attachment screws for the Onyx were a design problem, there's be a lot more than a small handful of people (if that) that have an issue similar to yours.

g.

Working through the user manual for my max 2. I have just done my first movement test on page 23. All motors move to the switch but the x axis makes a very loud stuttering noise for about 10 seconds before it stops. The manual doesn't appear to have a decent troubleshooting guide. Any hints what I can do to alleviate my first problem?

terratian wrote:Working through the user manual for my max 2. I have just done my first movement test on page 23. All motors move to the switch but the x axis makes a very loud stuttering noise for about 10 seconds before it stops.

Chances are that your carriage is making physical contact at about the same time as the endstop switch. When you move it manually, is there a reasonable gap between the carriage and the wood when the switch clicks?

there is a half inch gap. when I manually move the axis around there is no sound, only when I home all.

I think a short close-up video would tell a 1000 words.

Check the wiring for the X axis end stop. Make sure the M119 test passes properly. Make sure the X axis motor is connected to the X axis connector on the Rambo.

g.

[youtube]https://youtu.be/D3kwRbICyzY[/youtube]m119 test passes.

What about verifying the motor wiring? Just in case, don't rely on your labeling - trace the wires by hand.

g.

This was exciting! I'm an under-qualified builder, so some of my feedback may be obvious to others.

Overall - Love the manual, you rock.

Please consider putting it in a Google Doc that allows comments, or in a github file that people can submit pull requests to - I'd love to contribute directly.

Major stuff

1. Bill of Materials: Tell people to LABEL their SCREWS. If I had only spent 10 minutes writing on the baggies which one were #6-32 vs. the other ones, I wouldn't have screwed up nearly as bad. (ha ha). This was the biggest headache.
2. pg39 thermistor kept jumping out. possible to tape the whole area while the goop dries?
3. pg47 holes closest the top
4. pg49 I got confused on "facing inwards" until I figured out you meant "poking outwards"
5. pg51 I absolutely could not get the screws to reach, and had to ditch the washer. Will that cause problems with heat?
6. pg53 I did the screws facing the wrong way. When you get a nylon locking nut on, it will REALLY hold tight. Same for 6.6-5, I may have crushed the nut, because I had to twist it so hard that I crushed a bit of the plastic fan case. Fan still seems to spin... yay?
7. pg56 Do NOT insert the washer from the wrong side, it will never ever come back out. I also couldn't get it seated. A "tapping" bit of board with the right diameter might be good, I had to whack it very hard to get it in.
8. 6.7-3 The stepper motor mounts have a bigger tab spacing on the bottom. I missed that the first time, had to un-do pg58.
9. pg62+ Oh man did I screw up the wiring - first I tried too thick a wire for 7.1-4, then I had the wrong amount out the top and bottom. Nightmare trying to splice in extensions.
10. pg67 doesn't say which side of the wires are bottom or top, and it matters in this case because of the connectors.
11. pg76 across from the X axis - did you mean Y axis?
12. pg112 - the axis don't match up! The X axis wasn't on top of the X beam.
13. pg126 here is where I absolutely shot myself in the foot - I had 8 inches out what I thought was the front, but wasn't, so all my wires were too short.

Minor Stuff

1. In the "what you need" section it would be nice to divide into "need to build (like ultra copper)" and "need to start printing (like glue stick)"
2. Same goes for wire gauge.
3. pg29 Cut off enough of the cap nozzle or not enough goop will come out
4. pg31 might mention that the goop is an electrical insulator, don't worry if it bridges the wires in the thermistor
5. pg46 I start wondering about peeling off the masking tape. Turns out I should have been peeling earlier, before anything is hard to reach.
6. General - what do you do when the nylon locking nuts start spinning in the board grooves? Get in there and try to grip it as you tighten?
7. pg65 you'll need to run all six end stop wires...
8. pg82 - here is where labeling the screw bags would have helped, I used the wrong flat head screw here.
9. pg88 could these have been screwed together before popped onto the struts? I didn't want to break anything when tightening them.
10. pg91 "the two metric screws" - again, I should have labeled my bags, I have no idea which ones were "the metric screws"
11. pg96 10.3-2 is there a new hole in that board? should the wires go through it?
12. pg104 how long should the bowden tube be? I think mine is too long, but I'm nervous about cutting it.
13. pg123 is it ok to reverse the black/white wires, as long as they are in the top 2 slots?
14. pg124 it took me a bit to figure out which axis
15. pg131 took a bit to figure out what "white PCB" meant, and that I didn't have it.