Hmm, does that mean that it doesn't matter? Ambiguous answer is ambiguous.bubbasnow wrote:YUP!
E3D V4 All metal hotend
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
Set it to 1.gestalt73 wrote:Hmm, does that mean that it doesn't matter? Ambiguous answer is ambiguous.bubbasnow wrote:YUP!
threaded thermistor...
Hi all, I was looking at the E3D hot end and see that it has a through hole (about 2.5mm D) and a blind hole (2mm D). Their website says to use the blind hole for the thermistor but I've seen a few photos here that folks are using the larger through hole. I want to wrap up my E3D installation but not sure which hole to use. What is the through hole there for? Should I just carefully red rill the blind hole to 2.5mm so I can tap it M3 for my thermistor?
thanks,
Michael
thanks,
Michael
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
-
grabredemeyer
- Printmaster!
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Mon Sep 23, 2013 11:18 pm
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
Michael, I used the blind hole as per their directions and it has worked perfectly for me. I see no reason to do it any other way.
Re: threaded thermistor...
i use the hole that is next to the nozzle (the blind hole). i think if you put it at the through hole (on top of the 40W heat cartridge and one side is open) your nozzle temps would be inaccurate?mhackney wrote:Hi all, I was looking at the E3D hot end and see that it has a through hole (about 2.5mm D) and a blind hole (2mm D). Their website says to use the blind hole for the thermistor but I've seen a few photos here that folks are using the larger through hole. I want to wrap up my E3D installation but not sure which hole to use. What is the through hole there for? Should I just carefully red rill the blind hole to 2.5mm so I can tap it M3 for my thermistor?
thanks,
Michael
Last edited by bubbasnow on Mon Jan 27, 2014 8:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
Thanks guys, just have to be careful not to drill too deep! Looks like the recommended blind hole is the way to go.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
why are you drilling? i was able to tap the m3 just fine without drillingmhackney wrote:Thanks guys, just have to be careful not to drill too deep! Looks like the recommended blind hole is the way to go.
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
I haven't drilled yet but the blind hole is 2mm (as per the data sheet) and an M3 thread requires a 2.5mm tap drill. Perhaps the aluminum is soft enough that it can be tapped without drilling?
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
- Eaglezsoar
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 7159
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:26 pm
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
Mine tapped without drilling.mhackney wrote:I haven't drilled yet but the blind hole is 2mm (as per the data sheet) and an M3 thread requires a 2.5mm tap drill. Perhaps the aluminum is soft enough that it can be tapped without drilling?
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
Did you use a cutting fluid when you tapped the aluminum, or did you just go for it?
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
lordbinky wrote:Did you use a cutting fluid when you tapped the aluminum, or did you just go for it?
went for it
- bvandiepenbos
- Printmaster!
- Posts: 923
- Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2012 11:25 pm
- Location: Goshen, IN
- Contact:
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
aarrrggg
no no no don't tap aluminum dry.
Use some tap magic for aluminum or wd-40
http://www.mcmaster.com/#1413k42/=qfwto8
has a nice cinamon smell to
really works wonders tapping and machining aluminium I love it.
no no no don't tap aluminum dry.
Use some tap magic for aluminum or wd-40
http://www.mcmaster.com/#1413k42/=qfwto8
has a nice cinamon smell to
really works wonders tapping and machining aluminium I love it.
~*Brian V.
RostockMAX v2 (Stock)
MAX METAL "ShortyMAX"
MAX METAL Rostock MAX Printer Frame
NEMESIS Air Delta v1 & v2 -Aluminum delta printers
Rostock MAX "KITT" - Tri-Force Frame
GRABER i3 "Slim"
RostockMAX v2 (Stock)
MAX METAL "ShortyMAX"
MAX METAL Rostock MAX Printer Frame
NEMESIS Air Delta v1 & v2 -Aluminum delta printers
Rostock MAX "KITT" - Tri-Force Frame
GRABER i3 "Slim"
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
+1 Brian. I tap literally 1000s of 2-56, 4-40 and 8-32 holes a month in brass and aluminum. In a pinch you can use a liquid soap like Dawn but tap magic is my go-to tapping fluid.
cheers,
Michael
cheers,
Michael
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
Hey guys, you seriously tapped this small hole with a M3-.5 tap without pre-drilling to 2.5mm? It doesn't even seem deep enough to get enough threads on a regular taper tap. I do have bottoming and plug taps too but none of them will start in that little blind hole. Are you sure you are not tapping the larger hole in the bottom left corner?
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v3 ... 5006-3.jpg[/img]
regards,
Michael
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v3 ... 5006-3.jpg[/img]
regards,
Michael
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
- Eaglezsoar
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 7159
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:26 pm
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
The bottom left hole is what I used. Seemed to have worked. The screw in thermistor is threaded all the way in.mhackney wrote:Hey guys, you seriously tapped this small hole with a M3-.5 tap without pre-drilling to 2.5mm? It doesn't even seem deep enough to get enough threads on a regular taper tap. I do have bottoming and plug taps too but none of them will start in that little blind hole. Are you sure you are not tapping the larger hole in the bottom left corner?
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v3 ... 5006-3.jpg[/img]
regards,
Michael
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
Ok, the small blind hole below the thermistor in my photo is the hole recommended for the thermistor. I have no idea what the larger through hole is supposed to be for.
How about the rest of you? Did you tap the through hole in the lower corner?
How about the rest of you? Did you tap the through hole in the lower corner?
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
- Eaglezsoar
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 7159
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:26 pm
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
I believe that the large hole is there to heat your Salami.mhackney wrote:Ok, the small blind hole below the thermistor in my photo is the hole recommended for the thermistor. I have no idea what the larger through hole is supposed to be for.
How about the rest of you? Did you tap the through hole in the lower corner?
But it works good for the thread in thermistor also.
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
Yea your block is different than mine...sorry for the confusion.mhackney wrote:Ok, the small blind hole below the thermistor in my photo is the hole recommended for the thermistor. I have no idea what the larger through hole is supposed to be for.
How about the rest of you? Did you tap the through hole in the lower corner?
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
The through hole in the heater block is for the Honeywell axial thermistor like what the buda uses. It's not recommended by E3d because they think it will give an inn accurate temp because of its placement, right next to the heater block.
- Eaglezsoar
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 7159
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:26 pm
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
Looking at the picture Michael posted if you drill out that small hole and go to deep you would be in the passage for the filament.
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
Eagle - exactly! I am concerned that there is not a lot of metal between the outside and the filament/nozzle passage to drill out. It could be done and I certainly have the equipment/skill to do it, but it would be tricky.
I'm just going to tap the larger through hole and use thermal paste to "plug" the end of the thermistor. I can then test the temp with my thermocouple and make a calibration curve if need be. That seems less problematic and I can always move it later if it's an issue.
Thanks all.
cheers,
Michael
I'm just going to tap the larger through hole and use thermal paste to "plug" the end of the thermistor. I can then test the temp with my thermocouple and make a calibration curve if need be. That seems less problematic and I can always move it later if it's an issue.
Thanks all.
cheers,
Michael
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
Umm, oops. No, that's not the hole I tapped. I don't even have a hole theremhackney wrote:Hey guys, you seriously tapped this small hole with a M3-.5 tap without pre-drilling to 2.5mm? It doesn't even seem deep enough to get enough threads on a regular taper tap. I do have bottoming and plug taps too but none of them will start in that little blind hole. Are you sure you are not tapping the larger hole in the bottom left corner?
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v3 ... 5006-3.jpg[/img]
regards,
Michael
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
I think depending on your version, there are different holes in these heater blocks. Probably should PM Sanjay and get some answers. 
-"Simpler is better, except when complicated looks really cool."
-"As soon as you make something fool proof...along comes an idiot."
-"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." ~Thomas Edison
-"As soon as you make something fool proof...along comes an idiot."
-"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." ~Thomas Edison
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
[img]http://files.e3d-online.com/Drawings/E3D_Heat_Block.jpg[/img]
that hole does not even exist....according to this e-drawing you should use the blind hole
that hole does not even exist....according to this e-drawing you should use the blind hole
Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend
Yeah, I saw that on their site. I did PM Sanjay so maybe he will chime in. For now, I've tapped the 2.5mm through hole that is in my heater block.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler