Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Eaglezsoar wrote:That TL-1 frame that you purchased, does it come with the top?
I am thinking about purchasing one to get rid of this acrylic, It looks sharp but it cracks if you get things too tight and it is not straight on the top.
I also bought the new arms trick laser has, that should eliminate the Delta Arm Blues permanently.

it comes with all the wood pieces, only. yes it has the top.

i just ordered the arms to try out also, =) hopefully it gets rid of the most of the play in the arms, but some of those have play also, so hopefully they picked a good set of ball ends.
I have set of custom arms also coming from an ebay seller in china. Well see how that works out when I get them.

i hate the current rostock arm design, i've sanded 3hours for what i thought was good, only to find out i had to sand another 3hrs for better fit, then i ended up sanding them too much, introduced side play. tried to use washers to take that out, ended up adding more friction..lol...

I definitely agree with your last sentence about the sanding. I'm just glad they finally came out with an alternative.

I finally got around to milling out my aluminum led mount for the rostock platform ( http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... =220#p8825) came out pretty good. here are some photos.

I used a scrap aluminum cover from a radioshack project box. About 1mm thick. Once I got my cnc router setup, It took less than a minute to cut out. test fitting leds

Why not print it instead? Too close to the hot end?

- dan

dbarrans wrote:Why not print it instead? Too close to the hot end?

- dan

im using aluminum because it doubles as a heatsink for the 1 watt leds.

started prepping the frame with my little helper, The tl-1 frame went together without a hitch. I didn't have to sand or struggle assembling it. It was flat and level on first assembley. I was pleased. I will be assembling this machine as parts roll in. along with my planned upgrades.

fit feels good, no play in the ball ends, balls feel a little tight but putting some lube on them should loosen them up more. these are metal so they are heavier. we'll see how they turn out. shipped from china took about a week not too bad. i had the seller customize these to 269mm lengths.

Those look great! Good to finally have something different to get away from all that sanding that never works the first time.
Have fun hooking those up and let us know how they work. Is that your son in the pictures?

Eaglezsoar wrote:Those look great! Good to finally have something different to get away from all that sanding that never works the first time.
Have fun hooking those up and let us know how they work. Is that your son in the pictures?

yup

Good looking boy with a good father. Thanks for the pictures.

cambo3d wrote:new hotend that will get retrofitted into my max. I've been following the development of metal hotends and this one is now available for purchase. One downside depending on how you look at it, is that it uses 3mm filament at the moment. 1.75mm will be available at a later date.

hot end can print Nylon, Polycarbonate, PLA, ABS, LayWood, PVA, HDPE and just about any type of filament there is currently available on the market. no PTFE or plastic is used in the hot end and it is safe up to 400C. currently available at http://trinitylabs.com/products/trinity ... emp-hotend

all metal hot end.jpg

I bought one of the trinty hotends as well, Have you used yours yet?

Curious how it actually runs.

it hasn't arrived yet, but will post a report once it's all set up. I bought the full kit and not bare hotend, they were still waiting on parts to complete the kit.

there's a video of it on youtube, If i can find it i'll post the link

here's one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxsQ0dmW2N0 it seems to stay cool enough that he can print pla with no fan. unlike peek hot ends that need a fan.

My favorite feature of it is that it can't really be melted, since it has zero plastic in it anywhere.

Flateric wrote:My favorite feature of it is that it can't really be melted, since it has zero plastic in it anywhere.

yeah, i can't wait to try it out! hopefully, there isn't any fit issues with the rostock. I have another printer that is jhead based, so it should just be a direct swap, if I can't make it work for the rostock.

leds mounted using thermal adhesive epoxy, on my custom cut aluminum heat sink http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... =260#p9718 50ohm pot wired along with 10ohm fixed resister, and on/off switch how it looks on the platform all wired up. If I make another, it will be made of pcb material so the wiring and led will be integral part of mount. powered up turned all the way down dim powered up turned all the way up bright IF ANYONE WANTS AN LED MOUNT LIKE THE ONE I MADE JUST SEND ME A PM, I DONT HAVE ANY STOCK TO MAKE THEM AT THE MOMENT BUT I'LL BE MORE THEN HAPPY TO GET SOME.

EDIT: I'M NOTICING A LOT OF FLICKERING WHEN THE RAMBO IS DOING ITS PID ROUTINE, SO I ORDERED A BETTER VOLTAGE AND CURRENT REGULATOR TO ELIMINATE THIS PROBLEM.
problem fixed, using this regulator below. no more flickering.

current and voltage regulator from ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/221200620645?ss ... 1497.l2649
simple setup, install and turn your led pot all the way bright, then adjust the voltage pot on the regulator till the flickering goes away. There's also a current adjustment if you need it.

Do you remember what size screw you used to mount the ring?

it uses the stock screws that hold the hot end to the platform, no extra screws needed

can't wait to try these out, so far I see no play in the ball ends and best of all no sanding required. http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... =260#p9878

i'm using 3mm x30mm Length screws and 3mm lock nuts to attach them onto the rostock platform

I'm still waiting on my 50 ohm pot but I printed the mount and soldered in the leds.
Your's are really bright. I like that a lot!

Here is a picture of step one for me...

I included pictures of the new mounts I printed for the LCD screen. Cracked the wood ones.
These are ABS!

Bill

i dont' know why didn't think of reprinting my angle mount for the lcd.. i'm gonna do that now. i broke mine awhile ago. didn't dawn on me to print a replacement...

installed today and doing a test print, with the cal cube. Working great so far.

How come you ordered from China instead of going with the trick laser arms? Do you have more pictures of the print or the finished product?

aerouta wrote:How come you ordered from China instead of going with the trick laser arms? Do you have more pictures of the print or the finished product?

I had both sets coming to try but so far these china made version is working great, the print is still cookin, will post another update when done.

update: probably my best cal cube so far. still need to do some more tweaking to my flow rate. to the get the towers in between the windows to line up a lil better. Is that what what I need to adjust to fix that?

looks very good

Could you provide a link to the Chinese Ebay seller who sold you those arms?